hurley seals?
 

I want to go with the dual spring racing seals with my rebuild, mainly due to the fact that they are alot kinder on your rotor housings if they break. Anyone ever have a problem with these? Hurley has been around for a long time, yet lately I've been hearing of a few instances where the seals broke. What about the 3mm ones? Is it worth the trouble of machining the rotors? The only benefit that I see would be ability to withstand a couple pings. Are the increased weight and possibly worse sealing offset by the strength?

i have never heard anything bad about hurley seals. i regard them as the best in the world. personally i wouldnt go with the 3mm seals. if you detonate . . . then you do just that. its gonna mess youre seals up anyways. ive heard of ceramic seals falling out on detonation. ceramic seals dont break . . . they just screw everthing up inside. ya know. so if you detonate with 3mm seals youve only spent more money on detonation. just tune it right on 2mm seals and youll be okay. unless youre driving a freaking race car or something. . . haha. i personally will be using the 2mm dual spring seals on mine. ill post any complaints. . . when i do it of course.

Hurley seals
 

I was told by Dave at KD that they have had several seals break, all at the same place, and Hurley would not accept any reponsibility. Dave ate the repair costs and now uses the Mazda seals.

If your pocket books are deep enough i'd go with the ceramics. Rob at Pineapple was telling me that they have noticed an increase upto 25ft lbs of torque, just from running the multipeice ceramics. I beleive you can get the one peice ceramics for like $1300, and the multi peice for around $2200.

As far as the hurleys goes, i think they're a pretty nice seal. Ralph at Exessive Motorsports is putting down 530rwhp@22psi on them. He's ran upto 25psi on the street with them, from what he told me. However, on his next motor, he said hes going ceramic. Also from what i understand, that motor will be a small peripheral motor, like scoots.

Later, CJ

Try to avoid using 3mm. I use 3mm due to warped grooves, mainly from the way that the stock 3 piece can shift around over time.

I've never heard about there being a problem with the seals breaking due to some sort of manufacturing flaw. I've heard nothing but good things about Dave, but I would have to question what the circumstances were that caused the seals to break.

Ceramics are way too expensive for me. They also destroy the motor when they break. I've seen a pic of a rotor housing with all the tiny pieces of a broklen ceramic seal imbeded in the surface.

Steel apex seals will do the same thing. Take out the rotor, rotor housing, and every other apex seal. (Most of the time.) The people that can use carbon apex seals (n/a guys) have it good. No wear on rotor housings, and %90 of the time the rotor is savable, as with rotor housing. CJ

I've heard the Hurleys are alot kinder on the rotor housings. One of my friends detonated because of a tank of bad gas. When the motor was torn down the only thing damaged were the seals.

I'd say that is safe to say in most cases. Ceramics are better, but still break upon detonation, and typically will destroy everything in their path out.

yeah. . . ceramic is nice. . . especially when it is in front of you after a hard night of partying. . . haha. ive even heard of ceramic seals staying together and still destroying the motor. . . but if you have a failsafe program and your motor never blows, then you could even use them in your next rebuild. ive heard of race teams doing this. pretty scary to me, but then again we all saw the prices for ceramic seals too. i think that the spirited driver would be perfectly fine with 2mm hurleys