how's this setup?
 

sorry if this has been asked a bunch, but this setup just sounds really good for a start.

i just found this car in town for sale, here's the specs:

1993 Mazda RX-7 $14000

58,600 miles, black on tan leather, touring. 5 speed. ok heres the good stuff.

1500 on new Mazda reman motor, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Pettit Aluminum AST, Pettit Grounding kit, Pettit Rotor filler oil cap, HKS down pipe, Gutted main cat, Apexi Auto-timer, Hose Techniques silicone vacuum lines, Mazda reman motor, Brand new NGK plugs, NGK plug wires.

needs a boost guage.


how does that setup sound, and for 14000 with such low miles and a new motor? i've been looking for a long time, and it seems now that i have the money, the car is right here for me. im going to look at it tomorrow, any pointers, questions i should ask, stuff like that as well...or just point me to a FAQ site. thanks!

Where in Missori are you? Also, make sure to bring a Boost gauge to test with. A gutted main cat, why? That would have to go if it was mine. Make sure to see his paperwork on the motor. Does not sound too bad if it is a clean example.

water temp gauge too and fan mod is always nice
it doesn't have that many mods and doesn't say how the turbos are doing?
very bad that it doesnt have a boost gauge. I would hook one up and see what the boost is getting to
it may have damaged a seal already if it is getting high on a stock ecu.
run a compression check just to see if you really decide to buy it

southwest missouri. i dont have a boost guage...isnt there just a cheap way to get/make one? what boost pattern should i look for, 10-8-10 ...but with a downpipe? what should the compression be, anymore questions like that?

Make sure the owner really cared about his car. Too many times people sell their FDs because the think it's too much of a hassle. If he really enjoyed the car, then he put time and effort into making it right. Also be mindfull of things that you think will bug you down the road. Im pretty anal about interior, so any little flaw on the dash or bins pisses me off. If u are like me, check out EVERYTHING. You are the one with the money, so don't be afraid to ask questions or inspect it inside and out.

Like series7 said, make sure it has NOT OVERHEATED! Also ask if he took the proper precations when breaking in the new engine and check out where he got it serviced. Talk to the techs and make sure he is telling you the truth about the service of the car. All in all, it sounds a lot better than most and should be a good deal if it's on the up and up. Take care and report back about what happened.

- Danny

thanks for the advice guys...
anymore questions and i'll ask.

is there a site on checking the boost with a cheap/homemade boost guage? i wanna check the boost pattern for sure.

It is very easy to hook mechanical up a Boost?vac guage (a NEW autoeter Guage is less than $50) There is a SPARE vac/Boost port on the Pass side of the intake mainifold Just plug the guage in there and run the tube out under th hood and in through the window :cool: and hold on to the guage while the owner does a couple WOT runs in Third!

Stock Boost shoud run 10-8-10 psi, the Dip should be very brief at 4500 rpm, also boost may drop back to 8 above 6500rpm to redline.

also Vac should be at least 15inHg at Idle (unless the motor has been ported.

how do i check vaccum? should i get it compression tested, even tho it is a new motor with 1500 miles?

i think i have everything down except for that. i dont think i've slept all night reading every faq i could find, lol. i just want to be 100%. the guy is probably gonna think im a nut inspecting this thing for hours. :D

you see vacuum on th boost gauge. when the car idles it is at it's vacuum (the left side of the boost gauge).
When you are in boost it will be from 0-whatever boost and vacuum is anywhere below that 0.

YES if you are going to buy the car for sure have a compression check done before you buy it. The compression check can't tell you everything for certain but if there is a definate problem with one of the seals it will show up.

great job on doing your research. you will be very happy in the end.
If the boost is going very far past 10 ( to 12) I would not get it since it could have caused damage to the seals with the stock computer.

what should the compression be at? i read some low numbers, but what is the good-range for it to be at?

7-9 would be good?

yeah, make sure the recall has been fixed. I just bought mine and it didn't have the recall fixed on it. So it's in the shop right now getting that and some other thing staken care of. And make sure the turbos work ok, cause my primary just went out. Even though it has low milage, check just to be safe and make sure they work incase of compressor surge and the pipes so they aren't cracked. U can fix that, but just check so you can take him down lower. I got mine for $9800 and spent $2000 in repairs. So in reality I paid $11800 for it and now the price of new turbos. O well.

When you get the compression test make sure it is done while the engine is WARM. If it is done cold it will disguise problems and also result in abnormally high numbers, and entire point higher (kg/cm^2) from the case I know about. 6.0 is minimum and 8.5 is factory spec (new), with 1.5 maximum difference between faces. With a just broken in reman I would expect something at least in the high 7s with consistant values across all 6 faces. If it has that then I'd say you're set.

anyone wanna run a vin check for me?


JM1FD3311P0201548 is the vin number. thanks

i just called in to mazda for the recall list also.....and interesting, they said there were 4 recalls, instead of two.

2 had been done: gas lines and the breaks

recalls not done??? performance ECU and carbon fiber hood

the ones not completed confused me, i didnt know mazda had such recalls. any info on this? or is mazda just stupid?

oh and i asked about the coolant recall, and the lady said there was no such recall like that listed for the vehicle.

unless your car has the cf mazdaspeed hood from the factory (option), you have nothing to worry about.
that recall refers to a problem with the hood latch...

the ecu recall is something i'm unfamiliar with

The ECU recall was originally a TSB, I guess they upgraded it to a recall. It related to a problem with stalling I believe. I have a note about it in my service records saying "Check ECU for recall: recall already performed". None of the other records (which date back to the purchase of the car) show the recall as being performed, but I don't have any problems with the ECU so I'm not exactly worried. The coolant recall involved replacing some hoses and switching your 1.1bar pressure cap to a 0.9 bar cap, as well as something to do with the fan relays. If you have a factory style 0.9bar cap (it says on the top) then you likely already have the coolant recall.

with a gutted main cat and a dp you have a very free flowing exhaust. My bet is that he blew his motor prematurely (58k is early) because of overboosting. Get a boost controller at the least and an upgraded ecu asap.
(sorry if this was mentioned, I just didn't want to read all the way through it) :)

can anyone run that vin?

try asking in the cars for sale section

what's the number to call to check if your car's been taken in for recalls?

18002225500 i believe