HOW TO: Proper LED Instrument Cluster conversion
 

I have been through this situation so many times that i finally decided to post my version of (what i thing is) the proper way to replace the incandescent bulbs in a Mazda vehicle (in this case an FD RX-7) to achieve the best results.

I sourced my bulbs from WWW.SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM and all my tables and notes apply to these parts.

I have not tackled the exterior of the car yet, but brace yourselves, that conversion is $$. (If you choose the best LED replacement lights). - I'll so that later- :nod:

For those that know me, the attention to, and level of detail here is no surprise to them. -I swear I'm not obsessive, just can't stand to do things half-way.

This post only discusses the Instrument cluster, cigarette lighter, dome/map, cargo (rear hatch) and ignition key lights, but these rules should apply anywhere else in any other Mazda, (and most likely other cars I'm sure).

I have carefully selected colors and color temperatures to be most appropriate for the FC and FD series of RX-7's keeping in mind the stock amber/orange theme in the car.

...and oh yea, my car looks fantastic using this setup, I must say. :)

I have attached PDF documents and JPG images to assist you in replicating the results I have achieved. Download and those as they are easier to read.

Associate pictures to assist in cluster polarity.
 

Use a continuity tester to ensure you find the common connections if you cant make out a few of these images.

Touching the positive or negative pads from the image that you can see with one of you meter leads will help you find positive or negative elsewhere with the other lead on your meter.

I wanted to post better images, but I have to run in a few minutes and I started this not realizing the time it would take.

I'll post clearer images later if you like.

:)

Where did you post the PDFs and pics? I didn't see them.

Excellent job upgrading the lights!

disregard my post about the jpgs. They appeared right after I posted. However, I didn't see the PDF.

Again, great job!

Please post pics of the lights lit!

Interested to see them lit.

I too would like to see it lit up. I will soon be tackling this project as well. I have done this to many of my vehicle in the past but not with the coating that the FD gauges have. I am also very particular to detail.

The PDF's are in the original post.

I'll send a small video of the dash working once I'm done.

I'll also send images of the modification required to each of the tiny LED packages that is required to avoid failure.

What did you do to fail proof the bulbs?

I don't understand what you mean.
LEDs are largely considered fail proof by nature.

Can you elaborate?

^ I believe he's commenting on your statement of "I'll also send images of the modification required to each of the tiny LED packages that is required to avoid failure." He's asking what to do to make sure they don't fail.

By this, I believe you are referring to the epoxy "mod" you did to snugly secure the LED circuit boards.

I went another route and it has been successful for me for the past 2 years with no LEDs falling out of the socket. I simply squeezed closer together the metal prongs of the bulb base to achieve a tighter fit for the thinner LED bulbs as I used the same ones you did. Did this with a small screw driver and it works well. Also saves on the time of having to epoxy a bunch of bulbs.

Ah yes.

I assumed he read the mod instructions on the way I avoids failure but I didn't want to assume.

I have a strong aversion to modding my cars just to allow a new function or an Improvement. Most of my work is fully reversible. This LED upgrade is no different.

So I refused to bend my sockets.

The other reason is that the bend causes the terminals to move away a from the socket wall and therefore I feel that the bend will eventually come undone due to heat cycling.

So, a few months or a year later, buns may likely start to fall out or go dark.

Lets see some pictures of this.

???

Maybe we are talking two different things here. What I did does not effect the use of OEM bulbs but it does snug in so to speak the LEDs.

Look in the base socket - sorry, don't have one in front of me to take a pic. You will see the OEM bulbs are held in place by contact "prongs" with the OEM bulb sliding into these. As the OEM bulbs are thicker than the LED bulbs, they spread out the prongs and fit well.

It is the reverse for the LED units as they are thinner. The prongs do not hold them in place as well as the OEM bulbs so this needs to be addressed. Your method of thickening the bottoms of the LED bulbs will work and hold them in place. So will what I have done without impacting the ability to use the OEM bulbs. How do I know this? For whatever reason, I can't use LEDs on a few of my warning lights as the LEDs don't work so I had to go back to the OEM bulbs. They too slide right in.

What was my mod? To take a small flat screwdriver and slightly bend in the contact prongs so they snugly hold in the LEDs. Think of them as springs that hold in the bulbs and you will be the picture here. And there should be no impact at all of them heat cycling and breaking as they are further from the plastic socket wall. If anything, the new LEDs do not get nearly as hot as the OEM bulbs so there should be less risk of this happening.

Not saying what you've done isn't right. It's a great solution that will work for sure. Just saying there is an easier way here that has no negative effects at all.

Finally, just went back to check when I replaced the OEM bulbs for LEDs. Seems like it was about 3 years ago so longer than I remembered. So, 3 years and still going strong :)

Interested in pics and video of the finished product.

+1 pics and video please :)