I've blown my Torsen with near-stock power levels. I over-revved at a launch....spinning my wheels at 7000rpm. When I let off the gas...it went *BAAAAAAANG*. Needless to say, I don't dragrace anymore.

When driving, it would "limp" with a *kadunk, kadunk* every wheel revoluntion.

I now have a noisy-ass Kaaz.

so Its the Diff or the powerplsnt frame?

.

IM just in a snitch for money.

What I posted is very true. The v8rx7 community talks about this all the time. As most of our cars put down more than 400 whp. I personaly put 430 at the wheels. I have a TII diff with 300m axles and have run my car several times with E/T DRAG's. No problems at all.

The stock dif will stand up to 400 whp for a year or two, even if you go to the quarter mile track every now and then. A TII torsion or KAZZ fix all internal problems with the diff down to low 9's. But at low to middle ten's you start breaking axles. The 300m axles are also proven down to low 9's.

But the real problem with our rear end is wheel hop. Thats what breaks diffs. Lots of people have been testing the cobra mustang rear end. And there is even one person running a dodge viper rear end in his FD. Both seem to fix the wheel hop issue our cars have with the stock rear end.

does anyone make a bolt-in TII setup, and what is the price difference between Kaaz / TII

The V8 guys can talk about it all they want. There are years worth of proof from broken diffs to tell the real life truth (not to mention the ones I've witnessed myself).

Exactly, TII diff (and axles as well), just as I suggested earlier.

Ive run at 430hp for 3 years and numerous launches with a TII diff w/ KG diff brace and STOCK axles. I also run nitto 555DR as well as M/T Street Radials on occassion.

As for the stock diff: I exploded it as soon as I went single with a good tune!

is there a writeup on installing a TII? I've searched without finding much other than WTB posts

^ ive been wondering the same, searched but with no find.

You don't even know that your diff is broken yet!!! How are you going to replace it yourself if you can't even get under the car and determine what is really broken?

Take the best guess and hope for the best, I guess. If I tow the car to nearest shop its about $50 or so... Putting it on the rack and inspecting would probably cost $80 or so, at least 1 hour worth of labor. The cost comes out to be $130,low figures, its not very much. But if someone on this fourm can narrow down the problem, I can save that money and put it towards what I broke.
Again thanks everyone for your input.

The way to narrow things down is to:

1. Get some jackstands
2. Get a floorjack

and slide under to take a look. If you don't have an area to jack up the car (i.e. you live in an apartment and don't have a garage), you are just going to have to bite the bullet and take to a shop.

People can point you into 'a' direction here on the forum, but that's it without seeing the car. The rest is up to you getting dirty. Right now you have two possibilities for problem areas. Now its up to you to eliminate one or the others by physically looking at the car.

Yes I do live in an apartment, but I can still borrow a jack from my friend and look under.
What should I be looking for? leaks from the diff or anything like that? Possible spots to check for?

Exactly, if you don't have the ability or resources to look at it yourself, there's really not much point in asking about it. Just take it to a shop. Further to that, if you can't even get the car jacked up, why bother asking about how to do the swap? It doesn't make sense to me.

As Mahjik said, we aren't psychic, there's no way for sure we can know what's wrong. You either have to look yourself or get out your wallet, like everything else about the car. Not trying to sound harsh, but this thread has been going on for days and you don't even know what's wrong yet? Just seems silly. :shrug:

what kind fo traps are u runnign with ur setup?

You know I would never disagree with you or ryberg if I didnt have lots of hands on experiance with the subject matter:) You guys really know your stuff. But I stand by what I posted in my first post to be fact.

If you or some others have had trouble at lower power levels maybe somthing else was to blame. Maybe a previous owner never had the rear serviced. Maybe they treated the car like crap. Maybe it was lemon from the factory. I dont know.

There are too many variables to say it will handle exactly X amount of power and then it breaks. I say its good to an area of low 11's high 10's. But after that your on borowed time.:)

And I agree with you go with S4 TII clutch stlye pack and 300m axle's.

Who are you talking too?

Diff teardown thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/differential-teardown-tii-lsd-install-writeup-535290/

Though, the TII diff picture is missing, last I checked.

Yes, there are a lot of variables (HP, tire choice, etc). But I will say, that 99.99% of the people will break the stock diff before they can reach upper 11's. Now that doesn't mean they can't get that 'one run' where they hit low 11's on the stock diff, but it will eventually break from drag launches with tires that allow the car to hook up. No doubt about it.

The more power, the less time it will take to break. Will it break quicker with 600 rwhp verses 350 rwhp? Absolutely, but that doesn't mean "it can take 350 rwhp" when drag launching. That just means there is a lesser load than the higher HP/Torque application, but still more than it should be handling for its proposed use.

Saying it can handle 10's means that its not going to break, at all. Not "it can handle 10's for x number of runs". That just means it can't handle it because you know its going to fail at some point. That's the situation with the stock diff. I would challenge you or anyone to show us a car that has been using the same stock diff for a number of years and has been running low 11's or high 10's the entire time.

The biggest thing with the stock Diff is when it does go it explodes half the time. And the case is getting harder and more expensive to find. Especially when you can do a TII installed for less than $400.

I'm basically in this same boat. I think I broke my diff (almost positive) tonight at the drag strip. It'll go into gear I can slowly coast to about 20mph, but if I try to apply any load on it (like light acceleration or going up a slight incline I get a horrible grinding and popping noise from the rear. It also happens when I turn. I'll try to post pics of the diff tomorrow (I know it doesn't look normal...just trying to diagnose problem before buying replacement parts) On the bright side though I got 12.60 @ 118.9mph before this happened. Anymore input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Do you have a diff brace? im curious how much diff braces help with stock diffs.

what up dude i live in petaluma if u want i can come help u look for broken ppf. shouldnt be to hard. i have tools if u need them i also have my ppf out so u can look at it. let me know. edit this thread way old my bad

Im running the t11 diff with brace and stock axles, plus solid trans mount and motor mounts. so far in 2007 i never had higher that a 1.68 60 ft time and a best of 1.52 60 ft. But i know my time is comming to replace something. But not mentioned is the driver mod that problly keeps most diffs from breaking, i dont think you can just go to the line and let her rip. I also run et streets as i belive they help the drive train shock. So far this year i have run tens every time i have gone to the track. Good luck to all!