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I use this Miata hub kit. It came with plug & play adapters, and a clip that hooks up to the aftermarket horn button (the orange one). No ghetto-rigging required.
Finish Line '90-'97 Miata kit http://www.finishlineperformance.com http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0442_large.jpg works well with my AponOUT!? horn button. :D https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1292773803 |
^^^ This right here. No disrespect but other ways of doing this are kinda low class. =)
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low class or not your horn works right?
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So if I were to get a MazdaSpeed steering wheel, my best option to keep the wheel in an OEM position with a working horn would be to purchase THIS?
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^^Yes indeed. I run that piece in my FC vert and it works well, esp for the money. I have a Works Bell shorty hub and Works Bell Rapfix II quick release in the FD, and absolute love it. But you're paying for the top quality and quick release function. The Finish Line product is very nice :icon_tup:
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Is that all I would need? Just that piece and the wheel? Thanks for the info...
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That's a complete kit, yes. Just the wheel and the horn button.
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Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
(Post 10354858)
Finish Line Performance usually has the Miata hubs. They do go out of stock now and then.
Link: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php You can search the forums on miata.net for other sources. |
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
(Post 10354858)
Finish Line Performance usually has the Miata hubs. They do go out of stock now and then.
Link: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php You can search the forums on miata.net for other sources. |
as they are discontinued, what are the other options currently available on the market for real plug&play? (horn + indicator function)
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I'm trying to figure that out. I found one site that has the Daikei adapter but it's $170(!). There are really cheap ones that I won't use. The Works Bell appears to still be available but I don't like it's appearance much. The NRG Short adapter is about $100 but as far as I can tell it requires some trimming to make enough clearance and doesn't have the airbag resistor in the kit.
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I don't need the airbag resistor (non airbag 1991 R1 jdm car) :)
Do you know how much trimming is required? I've searched but didn't come up with some how to... |
Thanks for posting this solution for the fixing the horn. The previous owner of my RX7 changed the hub and steering wheel. In doing so, he got rid of the clock spring and never hooked up the horn. This atleast allows me to have a working horn so that I can get the car inspected.
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I used the Daikei Plug in Play hub as well and it is worth every penny not having to modify anything.
Maxime @ Rotarylove.com can get them for you. |
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 10354842)
You want the female version, it can be purchased here:
https://miataroadster.com/worksbell.html With the HKB hub you shouldn't have to do the hair clip mod, no. Just leave your clock spring installed, and the hub should have a wire with spades on each end that go from the horn wire on your clockspring (green with red tracer) to the backside of your horn button :icon_tup: Thank in advance, Idel |
Red wire & grey wire easy day.
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I realize this is a few years old, but it did help me.
One point to note that on my 1992 JDM FD3S, the hot wire was not the green one. It was the pink wire. |
Originally Posted by Alex Rodriguez
(Post 10011847)
This write up is to help those of you who have installed an aftermarket steering wheel and no longer have a working horn. After much searching I found a link to NRG where they made the horn work with Honda. Keep in mind it’s not all peachy. On the third gen RX7 it’s a PITA because the area to do this mod is totally different. No special tools needed to make this work.
Things needed for Mod. -Hair clip -a couple male to female connectors -misc tools (screw driver, crimps, snips, pliers, ) -light tester -electrical tape - soldering iron with heat wraps(if you have them) - 21mm socket and ratchet First thing you do is grab the hair clip and snip it so the female connector can fit tight. Then get a small nail and tape the area the connector will slide on. This is so it doesn’t slide out in the future .I used this because it has a unique bend that it comes back to its original bend even if you bend it. Attachment 712546 Next connect get wire and crimp the female end to it . You can wrap this with tape if you want. I used heat wraps for this. Just a extra precaution so if it ever falls it doesn’t set off the horn like crazy. Attachment 712547 You will need to make a bracket of some sort. I used nice gauge bracket I had laying around bend it to form like this and test fit it on the mount . Look for the other pics for reference Attachment 712548 Attachment 712549 Look under the dash column area and look for this clip. It should have been connected to your factory clock spring. Locate the green wire and push it out of itsconnector pin. After that get a female connector and crimp that sucker on there. Again use tape or heat wrap when you make your final connection on this area because this wire is HOT. Attachment 712550 Hers how it looks installed on the factory screm mounts. Attachment 712551 Here is the set-up mounted with the steering wheel so you can see where the clip makes it connection . This will keep the clip pushed up on the base of the hub adapter creating the circuit. Attachment 712552 The bracket is super sturdy as is but I added more precautions . I ziptied the braket to the mount and installed another screw so it doesnt slid down. Attachment 712553 Final thing to do is wrap the whole set up with electrical tape minus the hairclip. Just to be safe and zip tie in each ends of the tape. install your plastics Attachment 712554 Install your wheel w/ quick relase . And you are DONE! now you have a working horn. with your aftermarket steering wheel set up. Attachment 712555 |
I know this was a few years ago, did you have a quick release when you did this?
If so, what did you use? It's fine if you don't remember, just got an FD and was curious |
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