How long do you warm up your car for?
How long do you guys warm up your car for? I have been warming it up until it reaches about 60c, according to my PFC. It takes about five minutes to get up to this temp from a cold start. Should I warm it up for longer? Should I warm it up at all?
Also what is the normal operating temp for the car? What does your car run at? Mine seems to like to run at about 84c. Thanks! :D |
i usually let mine warm all the way up, but sometimes i will drive it at lower temps, but won't boost until it's at operating temps, which mine hovers between 87 and 90*c
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I used to warm up until the needle stopped moving, then I got to the point where I would go when it got to the C. Now I go when the car settles down to about 1500 RPM, or about 10 seconds.
Now, I take it easy, staying below 3000, until the needle stops moving then I keep it below 6k until I feel that its up to full operating temp. |
yeah, until operating temp, i don't go above 3k. another good way to check things is when your oil pressure drops to what it is when ur normally driving, that's a good indicator that it's warm
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I dont get to more than 23OO until the car is at 83C where it stays....
letting the car warm correctly and changing the oil often are my 2 main things that make me feel good and it seems to be working for the engines as well |
I go by the oil pressure gauge too.
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You can start driving within a minute or two -- the car will warm up faster that way anyway. I sincerely doubt lightly boosting (1-3 psi) on the primary is hard on the car after a minute or so of warming up.
I don't kick in the secondary until the car is FULLY warmed up, which means it has been at operating temp for several minutes. An oil temp gauge is helpful here. |
I do whatever rynberg tells me to do....... :) :)
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Originally posted by EviLPeNeviL I do whatever rynberg tells me to do....... :) :) (dreamstate voiceover): "Dan, Dan, give me your RP-01s....." |
I rev it up to 8 krpm and dump the clutch in reverse out of my garage.
;) ;) ;) |
I've heard that does a pretty good job of warming the car up quickly :wink:
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5-8 minutes during winter, 3-5 minutes during the summer. i look at my oil pressure guage.
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I let it sit for a minute or two, then just keep it below 3k and off the boost (maybe 1-2 psa on the primary) until it hits 80+ degrees celcius on the PFC for a few minutes. Then I drive it 'normal' ;).
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i wait until the needle starts moving and reaches the lower end of the temp gauge. then drive it real nice and slow until it gets to operating temp. which sounds like what most people are doing.
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No warmup. Pull out of garage and drive. Keep revs below 4k and boost below 2psi until normal op temp and steady warm idle.
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In winter I set the turbo timer for 6 minutes.
By the time I come out of my house its about 60-65C water temps. Plus the car is warm from the heater too.. |
i let mine warm up about a minute, then i dont go over 3k or out of vaccuum until its fully warmed up.
I have a remote start i need to install :D then it will get the warm up lovin it really needs |
I usualy wait till full warm-up allways, unless I'm in real rush than maybe just 2-3 min. and go but without boosting, once is fully warmed-up, pedal to the metal... :wiggle:
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I never let it warm up while standing still. I just take it out and drive it with light throttle and never past 2.5k RPM. Its fully warmed in about 5mins, but even then I hesitate to go full throttle until like 10mins or so.
Sometimes I baby this car too much :D |
160 f on my SPA water temp gauge
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Originally posted by clayne I rev it up to 8 krpm and dump the clutch in reverse out of my garage. ;) ;) ;) |
1min 30secs... as long u drive it slow the first few mins, its fine.. BMW suggest u dont warm up and just drive slow the first few mins.
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Sounds like a lot of people like to let the car sit and warm up. I can't think of ANY reason to do this. I get in the car, start it, and ease out of the garage. I stop to put on my seat belt, and click the remote for the garage door. All that takes about 30 seconds. Then I go. I take it very easy until the car is fully warm.
IMO, letting it sit and idle is a waste of time and gas. These cars get bad enough mileage as it is. |
I drive in Vaccuum untill my rad temp gauge shows 9'o clock.. 160-180F and the thermostat has opened ....
I'm having a Coolant temp gauge put in that reads water jacket coolant... and we'll see how the two correlate and when I start bosting then... (not for a while due to rebuild) :D |
I kinda follow what Pettit recommends:
http://www.pettitracing.com/faq/index.html#lessons Warm the car up before driving hard Start the car and immediately poke the throttle to prompt the kick-down. (Pettit actually recommends turning it off for a couple of seconds immediately after it catches to allow freshly pumped oil to seep into the bearings while they're loose, then restarting.) A lot of wear occurs during that 30 seconds or so at 3,000 RPM. It does this to warm the cat to operating temp sooner, but at the expense of your bearings. Within a minute, start driving. Warm up the car under light load, not sitting idling in your garage. Wait until the temp guage shows normal operating temp before going above 4,000 RPM or above 5 lbs boost (see boost guage below). |
Originally posted by clayne I rev it up to 8 krpm and dump the clutch in reverse out of my garage. ;) ;) ;) By the way, I crank mine up, start driving about a minute after, but I don't boost till operating temps are at norm. |
about 5-7 min
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I warm mine up to 25C on my commander before I leave my driveway. Then I dont boost until 83C. But after that all bets are off. :)
Shawn |
IM COMPULSIVE SO I LET MINE WARM UP
FOR 10 MINUTES {EVEN THO IT HAS 115,000 MILES |
I start driving it asap, cus its gonna be running anyways, and its bad for it to run when cold, so very light driving can't be any worse. It revs at like 2500 anyways, so why not drive it an just keep it below 2500 rpms and in vacuum?
I don't boost til I see 80C on the Commander, which usually sucks cus I always see a vette when my car is cold and I can't hand it to him. |
Hi,
I used to read in a book somewhere that rotary engine has diffirent internal stuff....something like the seal or something else that are not Metal. According to the author, it's not wise to put too much load, which is driving or reving the rotor, on the engine if it's not in its operating temp. It's believed that the wear would be a lot greater than doing that to pistons engine. So, I warm it up until the rev sattles....maybe around 75 c. and drive it nicely till the engine is fully in operating temp...82 -84 c before I put all the boost. BTW. I'm not really familiar with internal stuff of our engines, so if you know better, please discuss for others to know better. POM HB |
I use a 5-minute warm up to "pre-flight" the aircraft. Give it the once-around, checking tread/tire pressure, pad wear, any scratches, odd noises, check shock rebound dampening, sometimes light and signal operation, etc.
Warming up, depends how far I am going. If it's a quick run to the store I'll let it warm up and inhale those beautiful fumes in the garage, heating my legs by the cat-back tip before heading off. Makes a heckuva garage heater, even with no pre-cat. :D Anyone else get the 3-5 rev idle fluctuation as the AWS kicks off? |
I warm up until the temp reaches between 100 and 115 F. At that point, its down hill for quite a while, so I just coast it, lol.
I dont hit more than 2 or 3 PSI until its at 175 F or more. I go into WOT until I've been driving for 6-7 minutes or so (Usually 185 or higher temps). |
Originally posted by 911GT2 so why not drive it an just keep it below 2500 rpms and in vacuum? |
i wait till its about 70 degrees C on the power fc. then keep out of boost till it hits mid 80s. Normal operating temps for my car is about 86-87 C.
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Originally posted by cloud9 Sorry I am kind of a newb but what does the term "in vacuum" mean? |
oh ok thanks
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10 - 12 mins usually.... it is really depend.... take a little more in winter
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just drive it but keep it under 3krpm and outof boost till you hit at least 180degrees
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Moving as soon as the idle steadies, then easy rolling until warm.
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85-90 deg. C. about 10 to 15 min of warm up time.
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I like to let mine rev freely to 3500 rpm without kicking it down for 5 minutes. I run straight 50W oil during cold weather 'cause it sticks like snot to the rotor housings and gives me an extra measure of protection on start up.
I then drive at full boost to the 7-11 one half mile away and pick up some brewskis, then back home. Before shutting her down I like to rev it a few more times to about 7 or 8K, just to see if the rev limiter really works, and to hear the sound of my extra loud N1 duals and midpipe reverberate off my neighbor's houses. This way I never have to worry about any overheating issues. :ban: |
I normally just start the car and drive. Keep out of boost and keep it below 3.5k rpms until the water temps hit 70 C...then redline:D
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In all seriousness, there was a period of time where I was letting it get to 60C and then leaving. The issue was that if i I drove it and came to a stop (let off throttle) the revs would drop to around 200 and the car would die. Once it was above 60C this never happened.
After doing some searching I found that the PFC Water Temp fuel enrichment settings needed to be adjusted so I moved them 2 notches up for each setting and the car never died again. I still have some funkyness though. Upon startup revs are around 850 (what I set it to) due to TB coolant bypass. No problem there. However the second I hit 60C (and it did this even before I adjusted the water temp settings in the PFC) it will jump up to 1200 rpm then slowly settle back down to 800 by the time I hit full operating temp. It has to be some other form of PFC setting. Sorry to hijack the thread over that. |
If you are a hijacker, is it safe to take you for a ride in my car :)?? OOOPPPPSSSSSSSS, now I'm a hijacker!!
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