How to install RB Swaybar and adjustable endlinks?
 

Got a set of RB sways, Improved Racing endlinks and the Sakebombgarage sway bar mounts. My car is lowered on coilovers but has a scientific two finger widths gap on 255 45 17 tires.

Curious how everyone would approach installing sways without preload with this setup.
I think I understand the rough theory, you want to setup one side while jacked up. Lower the car with a person in the driver's seat to replicate your weight, then with the suspension loaded, adjust the endlink so the sway bar is mounted without tension.
In practice I had some questions.

• At what angle should the sway bar be (front and rear) before mounting the first endlink? This was my main question, I can move the sway bar and adjust the endlinks to match in quite a wide range but should I be looking for a certain orientation to avoid issues, especially eith a slightly lowered car?

• Specific to the improved racing endlinks, how are you supposed to keep the ball joint orientation "centered" when tighting up the locking nut? With the way the endlinks are designed (eyelet with lock nut into female threaded eyelet), when you tighten down the locknut, by nature it'll rotate the eyelet. If the eyelet orientation isn't centered, then the ball joints will bind with limited range of motion. I kind of got one, but basically you need three hands, 17mm wrench to keep the female in place, another 17 to tighten the locknut and a 13 to hold the male eyelet while tightening the nut.

Been studying a bit of swaybar theory as well and it seems with the RB sways, the car should be more oversteer prone? Curious what people felt from this setup.
The RB sways are advertised as:
-Front: 97% stiffer
-Rear: 263% stiffer (my car is a 94).

so the first bit, either put the end links in the center to start with, or make them the same as the stock ones, and then adjust to get zero preload. it shouldn't take much to get there.

as far as the balance of the car goes, it depends. the rear is a lot stiffer, and in theory that would give more oversteer, but there are a bunch of other factors. like alignment, and the spring rate of the other springs.

I recommend inspecting the rear swaybar after some time. My RB rear developed a set twist / misalignment and didn't spring back to center causing a preloaded condition. I went back to stock 93 rear with new bushings.

Most people find that the stock rear bar or no rear bar is best. But, as mentioned it does depend on your setup. If you have a lot of rear tire bias and/or stiffer front spring rates, it could be OK.

It's the R&Track Ohlins, so 11kg front and rear

Tires are square 255 rt660s