how do you remove the Air Control Valve
 

Well Im confused with all the old post about using resistors and stuff. Well first I'm still running the stock twins but none of the smog stuff and want to take out the ACV. So I have the Block off Plate and not sure what to do next. Old post say to use 3 resistors (330Ohm 1/2 watt). So if I was to guess they go on the three sensors on the ACV itself but what do you do with the two solenoid on the rats nest(Relief 1, Switching Solenoids)?

The easiest thing would be to leave the solenoids on the rack plugged into the harness (you can remove the vacuum lines), and then you just need one resistor for the ACV as you only need to use it on the female connector (IIRC, there are 3 connectors on the ACV, one female and two males).

hey thanks I will do that.

about 2 years ago i rmvd mine, and forgot to cover the connectors going to the ACV, the problem was that one of those connectors have power and short out on top of the injector, resulting in the egi fuse keep poping, so make sure to cover the connectors with something " i use electrical tape", after some time, i when single turbo so i cut them and heat shrink the ends. Hope i can help some with this.

thats a good point I had the same kinda of thing happen on my truck and the supercharger fuel relay was shorting out and that to was fun to find.

i removed the ACV and cut the connectors since i dont need it in future

now is it normal after you do this the car starts to back fire on down shifts?

well, the car is fine. Back fire happen very very less, i dont think it causes by the ACV removed; i believe it causes by the Power FC tuning issue. I have race port and t-78