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how do you guys dealing with heat soak..
It's summer time again..
When i drive my car, temp is rock solid 180-190 F. (90+F heat outside) Problem begins when i park the car after driving it. i can't open my hood everytime after driving my car... I do have a fan mod and koyo. I even left the fan on for 3-4 min after parking but that doesnt help alot.. My temp gauge still reads above 210... how ya deal with this? |
As long as you have adaquate glycol in it, it will not boil at 210. In fact it will be good up to 240 or so with 50/50 (what I use). It's normal for any engine, not just the rotary, to heat up after stopping. Check out under the fronts of cars on highway rest stops. About 1 in 20 actually boil out a little coolant.
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cool thanks!
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vented hood does wonders..
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Drive as least as possible
Get an everyday driver for the meanwhile. Just drive at night |
Upgrade the radiator (if you haven't already), make sure it's a good fan you have, and above all else make sure that the radiator is filled properly with the proper ratio of coolant.
As mentioned above a vented hood will help a lot as well. You can duct hte rad too to help. |
consider yourself lucky
today was like 60 degrees and it was pretty windy so it was nice and chill, i had a sweater on.. anyway, i was driving and my temp gauge would reach a peak of 198f, then back to 190 and just fool around between there..then when i shut it off, it would jump to like 204 and stay there for a while.. mind you i have the fan mod and I ALWAYS let the fans run for about 10-15 min with the hood open whenever i stop and park.. this is 60 degree weather, im afraid for the summer.. o btw, i have the stock radiator |
Upgrade the radiator (if you haven't already), make sure it's a good fan you have, and above all else make sure that the radiator is filled properly with the proper ratio of coolant.
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before entering my garage i pop my hood and cruise around 5 mph for a quarter mile and it cools it enough so i can open it up with my hands.
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I did all those things until I got my vented hood. It's amazing how much heat escapes. The difference is night and day.
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Ceramic coating items related to turbos, intake and exhaust does help a little.
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Where did you guys get the vents at?
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evot23 what kind of vented hood do you have
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try this (i have always wanted to but i never had enuf money)....
first buy a turbo timmer and rig it to keep only a switch/relay on. then buy a inline eletric water pump and place it someplace between the engine and radiator and have the switch/relay control it, then when you turn your car off, the water pump will keep the fluid circulating and should keep your car fairly cool. oh yeah, buy a scoot hood too, cant hurt :D |
Originally posted by skunks try this (i have always wanted to but i never had enuf money).... first buy a turbo timmer and rig it to keep only a switch/relay on. then buy a inline eletric water pump and place it someplace between the engine and radiator and have the switch/relay control it, then when you turn your car off, the water pump will keep the fluid circulating and should keep your car fairly cool. oh yeah, buy a scoot hood too, cant hurt :D https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...electric+water My electric water pump comes on based on a temp sensor mounted to the filler neck. It activates both the pump and fans to cool the car down. I haven't seen it go above 210 after shutdown with 80 ambient yet. I'm waiting for the real test this summer. |
I'm getting the VIS knight sports replica CF hood. Is this the hood you have evot23? It doesn't have as many vents as the scoot but I'm itching to find out how beneficial it is. Sorry for the thread jack, back to the issue.
I have a daily driver that I drive, with A/C, that I've been driving in the heat. I can't stand not driving the 7 during the day. Bigger oil coolers will help along with the other mentioned items. I'm betting on a vented hood but if I were you I'd pop your hood as much as possible and try not to get caught in stop-n-go traffic. |
guess ya didn't read my first post :)
I do have Koyo rad.. I always do turn on my fan when Im near to my destnation. also do open my hood and cruz when im near to my Destination... summer suxs. lol |
I have a question regarding the install of the electric water pump on the line at the back of the engine. Since this line feeds the heater core, will it flow coolant if the heater is not on? How does the stock system control heat in the car? Does it cut off coolant flow by closing a valve or does it just cut off air flow via a damper?
If it cuts off coolant flow, then I would assume you would have to leave the heater control on full heat. Mike |
Does everyone still drive when it rains with a vented hood??What if you get stuck in the rain?Would all the water get into the intake?
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Originally posted by radiantRX-7 Does everyone still drive when it rains with a vented hood??What if you get stuck in the rain?Would all the water get into the intake? |
So let me get this straight...you hit 210 degrees while the car's idling? Or when the car is shut off?
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go up to 210 sometime on a hot day..
I usually turn on my fan when temp reaches 200. My main concern was after driving. I guess i wouldn't have to worry.. Im plannin on changing my thromstat and coolant this week.. joy joy joy :) |
a vented hood in the rain with an intake like the Apex-i ot HKS one would be bad. wouldn't water just get right onto the foam filter
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apex'i doesn't have a foam filter... at least the power intake like what i have doesn't. the FEED vented hood is nice. the vents are near the rear (windshield side of the hood) and it looks pretty stock otherwise. bit pricey, but definitely a NICE looking piece
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Originally posted by jspecracer7 So let me get this straight...you hit 210 degrees while the car's idling? Or when the car is shut off? |
Originally posted by pugg57 apex'i doesn't have a foam filter... at least the power intake like what i have doesn't. the FEED vented hood is nice. the vents are near the rear (windshield side of the hood) and it looks pretty stock otherwise. bit pricey, but definitely a NICE looking piece |
I think some vented hoods have some sort of closing mechanism on the underside.
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anybody know the answer to my question regarding the heater core and the pump placement
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Not to sound trite, but who cares if water gets into your intake? That would be poor man's water injection. It take a serious amount of water to cause hydrolock for a combustion engine anyways. The water would simply flash evaporate and cool down your intake temps.
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Originally posted by BATMAN Ceramic coating items related to turbos, intake and exhaust does help a little. |
Originally posted by darkside7 vented hood does wonders.. yeah tell me about it! my heat soak dropped 3c lol |
Originally posted by pomanferrari You mean this? https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...electric+water My electric water pump comes on based on a temp sensor mounted to the filler neck. It activates both the pump and fans to cool the car down. I haven't seen it go above 210 after shutdown with 80 ambient yet. I'm waiting for the real test this summer. |
ceramic coating exhaust and then heat wrapping it is a good thing too.........
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anyone know of a site for the feed vented hood so I can check it out?
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Originally posted by BATMAN ceramic coating exhaust and then heat wrapping it is a good thing too......... Originally posted by Garrett Not to sound trite, but who cares if water gets into your intake? That would be poor man's water injection. It take a serious amount of water to cause hydrolock for a combustion engine anyways. The water would simply flash evaporate and cool down your intake temps. |
Originally posted by Michael Filippello I have a question regarding the install of the electric water pump on the line at the back of the engine. Since this line feeds the heater core, will it flow coolant if the heater is not on? How does the stock system control heat in the car? Does it cut off coolant flow by closing a valve or does it just cut off air flow via a damper? If it cuts off coolant flow, then I would assume you would have to leave the heater control on full heat. Mike The point is not to use the heater core to cool down the block but to circulate coolant through the front radiator when the engine is off but not present a restriction (the electric pump - not that it restrict flow at all as it's a magnetic impeller drive) when the mechanical water pump is running. VW and Audi have this pump in at least the VR6 due to the tight spacing of the cylinders: head warpage. Mercedes also. Hell, if two reputable manufacturers put this in their cars, i don't see why we shouldn't do it in ours. |
I was at the dealer today and we looked up the schematics on the heater core. It seems that there is some type of valve located below the heater core where the lines come into it from the fire wall.
This also confirms the real world observation that I have experienced where there is a noticable increase in swooshing noise coming from the heater core when I turn my temp control to full heat. This has to be from coolant flow being allowed to pass through. I am not saying that it is an open or close type deal but maybe always allows some coolant to pass and when you turn the knob to full heat it opens all the way. I will check into this further to see how it functions. I know pomanferrari is having success with his setup and this is a great idea. I just figure it wouldn't hurt to check on some of the minor details. I have already found a pump fpr $30 with only 100 miles on it and plan to make a circuit that will only come on when the car is off. This way the stock controls will function while the car is on, and this circuit will only be energized when the car is off. Mike |
well, i just crawled up under the dash and unscrewed the access cover just below the heater core. Right where the two heater lines come in is the valve that I saw in the schematic. The thing is that this seems to control a flapper above the lines in the haeter box somewhere and not a valve in the line of coolant itself.
I did some emperical testing to see if this valve had any effect on the flow of coolant through the heater core. Since my motor is out right now, I had easy access to both lines. With my employee operating the valve manually, I blew into one of the heater hoses. As he switched the valve open and closed. I felt no increase in restriction at all. I guess pomanferrari is correct in that coolant flow is unaltered by the temp setting and that this servo operated control is opening and closing a door of some sort. This could also explain why I hear more swooshing when I turn the knob to full heat. When the door is shut the sound is muffled. When it is opened, I can hear the sounds that are always present but normally shielded by the door. This of course makes this mod so much easier. Mike |
Originally posted by Michael Filippello well, i just crawled up under the dash and unscrewed the access cover just below the heater core. Right where the two heater lines come in is the valve that I saw in the schematic. The thing is that this seems to control a flapper above the lines in the haeter box somewhere and not a valve in the line of coolant itself. I did some emperical testing to see if this valve had any effect on the flow of coolant through the heater core. Since my motor is out right now, I had easy access to both lines. With my employee operating the valve manually, I blew into one of the heater hoses. As he switched the valve open and closed. I felt no increase in restriction at all. I guess pomanferrari is correct in that coolant flow is unaltered by the temp setting and that this servo operated control is opening and closing a door of some sort. Mike |
yeah, I guess this confirms your findings. It's all about the search for the truth. I hope this info helps everyone else that reads through all the posts. It seems that with all the thousands of posts, that many threads start to contradict the others. Everyone says to search but I find too much conflicting data anymore.
Mike |
Feed hood http://www.rotaryextreme.com/feed.html
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don't stop the car once it's going </nothing to contribute> |
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