Hold light flashing / car runs like ass
 

Ok here goes.
One day I went to fuel up the car.Got it toped off and came home.Parked the car and went inside the house.About half an hour later I had to go somewhere so I started the car again.And well the car sorta ran but it just wouldnt go past 10 mph.I was like what he hell is this crap.Then a secondary problem arised.The car wouldnt start worth a damn.It was flooding.Replaced the wires and plugs.Nothing.Replaced the vacuum lines with silicone ones and also the entire rats nest solenoids all eight of em plus the engine duty solenoid.That set me back about a grand.Still nothing.Thought it might have been the fuel pressure regulator.Replaced that.Nothing.Took it to the dealer.They quoted me 500 bucks just to look at it.Told em to go fuck themselves.Took the car home.Then some luck.One day we meaning me and my father in law who is a mechanic decided to check the spark system again.
And the first trailing ignition coil wasnt firing.So I tested the coils using an ohm meter.The two trailing coils failed.
Ordered two new ones.And still the engine flooded.Through trial and error we found the small piece of harness that goes from the 3 ignition coils to the main harness to be the culprit.We took it off and removed the electrical tape.Cleaned the wires up and put some new tape on.Now all the coils are firing.But the car still wont go past 10 mphs.So now im back to square one.The weird thing is this.When pressing on the gas theres no real change in speed but sometimes theres a sweet spot where the car actually tries to go a little faster.Go past the sweet spot car goes back to 10 mphs.Let off the gas car goes back to slo mo. And sometimes the car actually drives fine.Weird.Also my car is an automatic and autos have a hold button for a manutronic type controll.Well this light is flashing and its not supposed to.So if anyone has any idea please help me out.Ive sank 2000 grand into the car and im still not able to drive it.This sucks

The transmission has an ECU of its own that has codes that should tell you some of the areas to check. If you have a manual, there is a way to check these codes. As far as the 10 mph thing, make sure that the rubber hose connections on the intercooler havent got splits or tears in them.
Just my 2 cents......

When the hold button light flashes, there is an error. The first thing you should do is check the CODES!! Ground TAT and GND terminals in you diagnose box. Go to page K-214 on your manual... Check the codes!!! Then go to to K-218 and K-218... hope this helps

Did you check your tranny fluid?? Hows the torque converter??

Yeah my father in law thinks it may be a torque converter problem 2.I didnt know that the tranny had an ecu of its own.How can i pull codes from it and where is it located? Who knows maybe a lose wire on it is causing all this.Thanx for the info guys.

The fluid is fine.Not low or contaminated.Rules that out.
Still it can be the torque converter.Ill check the intercooler hoses to see if theyre leaking.Im also in the process of changing out the front seal on the main pulley.Its leaking oil.Once its replaced im going to put it back toghether and im going to check for codes.Although ive checked it before with a obd 2 scanner and got nothing.Im going to check for codes old school and see if anything comes up.
Im also thinking of buying some starter fluid and spraying it in the engine bay to see if maybe theres a vacuum leak somewhere i havent looked yet.Thanx once again for the help guys.If you have any more ideas let me know.

check codes and then reset it, perhaps your in limp home mode

Disconnect your positive battery terminal, let the car sit for a few minutes, and reconnect. See what happens.

speeddemon7:

before i bought my car the torque converter was toast! It could barely move!! so the previous owner change it and voila... :D But im not sure in your case as its an on and off problem!?!

If it is a torque converter problem then i would suggest just replacing the auto wiv a manual... hehehe i know that's what i'll do... good luck ;)

Thanx for the help guys.Well tomorow im going to check for codes.Hopefully its something simple.I really cant afford a mazda tranny right now.They want 2200 for a remaned one.Thats just too damn much.Also quick question.Say my torque converter is toast.Can I just replace the torque converter?Or does the whole tranny need to be changed out?

Just a thought, but when I was trying to unflood my car (ended up being flooded with water, and not gas, but that's another story) I pulled the EGI and fuel pump relays and cranked the car a few times. The hold light was flashing. I put the EGI relay back in and the light stopped. Sounds strange and it's probably a long shot, but an EGI relay is a lot better than pulling out your tranny.

yes u can just change the torque converter... :D

like what i advise you, beter swap to manual then! second hand is ok as well ;) shop around dude

Do a "test" of the salvage yards in your area. Ask to price an automatic tranny for the FD. Then wait a few days and ask to price a MPV tranny. 5 to 1 says they will quote you a higher price for the "FD" tranny.
But they are the same transmission.

Thanx everyone for all the info.Ok so I went to rx7s.com and checked the manual out.It says ground the gnd and tat toghether and then watch the hold light.Good info but theres no pic of which of the holes to put the two wire ends.And they arent labeled which makes this damn near impossible to do without a pic.The only lead i have right now is that i know where the gnd is.Mainly because when i changed the fuel filter rob robinettes site shows how to prime the fuel system back up.Your run a ground wire from the gnd to the f/p.So i know where the gnd is but where is the tat?Im guessing tat stands for transmission automatic.If anyone can post a pic or hell even walk me on target id really appreciatte it.

bump.just keeping this posting within sight.I really need this info.

Check out your EGI system, specifically the relay. I know it sounds rediculous, but if you pull that relay out on an automatic the HOLD light will flash. If your car was having flooding problems I would check the EGI before I started messing with the tranny.

So you want me to pull out the egi relay to see if theres a change in the car?
Also the reason it was flooding was because of the ignition coil harness.The flooding issue is solved.At least i think it is.

He's saying check the relay and make sure it is working properly and not clicking on anf off.

the TAT and GND is in the Diagnose box. The black box near the fuse box. Open it and look inside. There should be a diagram. after u put the wire, put your key to on, but do not start the car. Read the codee!

Long flash = 10
short flash = 1

Count them and look up the codes!!

I know where the box is but it seems that either i got screwed and they forgot to put the diagram on the thing or the previous owner got rid of it.In any case I have no diagram.So doing the code test is impossible unless someone can show me a pic of the diagram or tell me exactly where in the diagnose box the tat is located.The gnd is located in the lower part of the box with two rows not the other section with three rows.
I know where the gnd is but not the tat.

?? no lable inside the cap of the diagnostic block?? check again....if there is no lable, I will try and locate the hole locations for you....

oops.....didnt read all the posts.....sorry.....I'll still check for ya...

ok so i feel like a dumb ass.I never thought to look inside the lid of the diagnose box.but sure as shit i double checked just now and there it was.So now im going to try and pull codes.Hope it proves fruitfull.Thanx guys.

Ok so i managed to pull two codes. code twelve and code 58.Im going to look them up.Hope its something easy to fix.

code 12 is the throttle sensor
code 58 atmospheric pressure sensor

im not sure how to fix them but what i know is that code 12 has something to do wiv the TPS (throttle pressure sensor). I fix this by recalibrating it using a voltmeter. A five to 10 minute work!! ;) Search damian's thread on the TPS

it also eliminate my fluctiating idle, rough idle... and ect...
do you have these symptoms?

ok well code 12 is throttle sensor and code 58 is the atmospheric pressure sensor.I hope its the sensors and not the wiring or even worse the last step in the diagnosis.The ecu or ec-at.I mean if it ends up being the ecu ill just go buy a apex power fc and get the car fixed and upgraded at the same time.So I guess ill know a little more once me and pops start to check on these leads.thanx a lot guys.Without yo guys id still be looking at the wrong shit.And god knows an rx 7 is hard to diagnose.thanx again.

yeah i used to have all of them but since i changed the vacuum lines its not as noticeable but sometimes it still does it.So i know now what it is.it must be something simple because the car sometimes runs really good for a short period and then back to crippled

oh yeah by the way where exactly is the atmospheric pressure sensor located?

yeah... i know how u feel ;) such a relief huh... ;)

Dont worry i dont think its the ecu/ecu-at. but its a good reason to tell your parents that you need a new ecu... hahaha just joking...

or better yet where is the sensor located i the shop manual?

Shit im on my own when it comes to my problems.So if i do need an ecu then I have to cough up the 1200 for it.
Ohh well i was going to get one anyways so why not.If thats whats causing the problem.
So far ive got a Blitz dual intake,blitz blow off valve,blitz injectors,blitz raditor cap blitz oil cap and steering wheel cap,and polished hard pipes behind the blitz intakes.The stockplastic pipes look shitty in my opinion.
Once i get the car up and running peachy again im going to buy a blitz nur spec exhaust.After that i think im going to pickup a blitz front mount intercooler a power fc ,a downpipe and high flow cat.As far as body kits go probably the c west front and back with the mazdaspeed gt-c sideskirts and eithersome volk gt-c or volk gt-7 rims.Cant decide on which ones.But all this is going to take some time.Patience isnt my strong point.
lol.

i think its the MAP sensor!?! (mean atmospheric sensor) but not sure tho...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=182352

wow... hold on there... dont replace if not broken ;)

well that definatly helps out.You know what i dont get though.You guys call it a map sensor but its labeled boost sensor and i think the manual calls it something else.I called mazda to see if they had any idea what and where the atmospheric pressure sensor was and they had no clue.Hmm.Well im going to look through the manuals and see if i can find the boost sensor and see if its called by another name.I hate when even mazda doesnt know what the hell im asking for .

ok ive found out something.It seems that there is a pressure sensor and also a atmospheric pressure sensor.The atmospheric pressure sensor is inside the ecu.Guess im fucked.

Are you sure bro??? Did you check the MAP sensor? It's on the firewall, driver's side. Little black box that says boost sensor with a vac hose attached to the bottom. No hose=you found your problem. Problems sound very similar=hard starting, runs like ass, you forgot to mention if it was smoking (black smoke). DUDE! This is one of the most common/easiest fixes in our little community that will totally freak you out. If you missed the diagnostic map in the lid, then you owe it to yourself to check the MAP SENSOR one more time!

YEAH THAT'S THE ONE! SEE THE HOSE AT THE BOTTOM??? (sorry for yelling)

Yeah ive checked the map sensor.That happened to me once.Was driving along and all of a sudden the boost started to get erratic.Looked under the hood and i found that the vacuum hose that goes to the boost sensor came off.Put it back on and the car ran good again.So believe me.When my car started to do similar shit that was the first thing i checked.

Ok so last night i talked to some of my friends at work.One of them is a shop mechanic and has a lot of experience with cars.Im not really sure how old he is but Id say at least 50.The other guy i know is 30 years old and hes very good with cars as well.Anyways they both told me the same thing.Instead of replacing the ecu i should clean the wires and the throttle sensor itself.They said that the atmospheric pressure sensor also called the barometric pressure sensor makes very small corrections to the fuel maps.But that the throttle sensor is the main control of air and fuel ratio.So im going to go after the throttle sensor first.Another thing they said is that the throttle sensor can be stuck at a certain level.Which definatly explains the sweet spot on the pedal.Meaning that theres a place on the throttle that the car actually begins to speed up and build boost.Go beyod that point the car runs like crap.go before that point the car runs like crap.Hit that sweet spot the car seems sorta normal.So thats what im thinking right now.

speed sensor
 

CHange the speed sensor and the "hold" light should stop flashing and your car will run better. At least do this before dumping alot of money into ECUs. It's easy to do yourself it is at the bottom of the tranny with only 1 or 2 screws to fool with. I had the same problems and this 5 minute fix did it.

Thanx for the info Ill check that out.Sounds like a viable place to check.So what exactly were your cars symptoms when the speed sensor went out?

Hey Koonass......did you have to buy the sensor through the Mazda dealership? or did you have another source...

Ok so heres the weird part.I had an oil leak at the crank pulley.I took the pulley off and changed the front oil seal as well as the o ring that goes onto the pulley bolt.Changed the belts and i hooked everything back up.
Startd the car and now it runs damn near perfect.I took it for a spin and it pulls even harder now.Must be the air intake and the silicone vacuum job.Its definatly quite an improvement.The only weird thing that i did notice was this.I parked the car and i let it keep running.I kept raising the idle up to see if the car would stumble or if it would respond immeditelly.Anyways i let it idle back down and then the idle fluctutated between 1000rpms and 1500rpms.Back and forth back and forth for like 30 seconds.Then it just went back to normal idle.Oh and sometimes it idles a little high at like 1100rpms and sometimes it idles at 500rpms.Im thinking throttle position sensor.So if anyone has the link to damians tps recalibration technique help me out.Thats where i think the problem is.

yup... TPS... do a search dude... not so hard ;)

Zombie-thread resurrection!

Was there any resolution to this epic diatribe of a thread? I've got a thread on the same weirdness level (Barometric Pressure Sensor error [58], as well) and am really interested on how you proceeded.