High and Low Beams on simultaneously?
 

Is there a straightforward method that allows the low beams to remain on when the high beams are selected from the column switch?

For example, has anyone tried to trace the wires on the column for the high beam switch, to run the high and low beams in parallel? Or run a diode in the relays so the low beam cicruit is triggered from the high beam circuit as well as low beam?

This is for a 4 lamp sleek light setup. I found a bit of information in a search, but it was not exactly what I am asking above.

run an external relay, I would rather do that; than 2 mess with the columm swicth, just in case of changing your mind later on.

Perhaps there is another way? Like looking at the headlight relays, and running a jumper etc?

BTW this is for a HID kit...

If you are looking for brighter lights there is a much easier way than rewiring your car. Back in the day, I had a 90 Civic that had separate low and high bulbs. I think the low bulb was 55 watt and the highs were 65. I found that JC whitney sold the exact bulb that was 100 watt (not legal for highway use). So I changed the high beam bulb from 65 to 100 watts. The Honda lows always stayed on, so with the High beams on, the car had 310 watts of light. They were amazing lights, and I never blew a fuse or relay.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...X/appId-508796

Yes that should work. I'd assume it will take some time looking at wiring diagrams to find the exact wires to tap into. Be sure not to bypass any fuses. I might look into it later tonight, as I'm interested in something like this also.

While you're at it, it would be a good idea to improve the headlight grounds also. Cleaning up the contacts and installing larger gauge wire should increase light output.

-s-

Kinda looks like a diode FROM the Red with white stripe (high beam circuit) TO the Red with yellow stripe (normal beam circuit) would energize both. Probably easiest done at the light combination switch connector on the steering column itself? Connector X-04 to be exact. Not sure what size/rating diode... low beams are listed as drawing 2 x 55 watts, which comes out to ~8.1 amps (@13.5V), though initial turn on might exceed this current by a fair margin... The circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse. Also need to look into how the fog lights are circuited in, either by direct feed (thus 13.3A from 180W) or via relay (only the 8.1A then...).

Basically, the circuit goes from battery through 30 amp fuse to headlight relay via red wire. Both the solenoid and switched connections are fed by the same wire. The solenoid then runs to one of the two headlight ganged switch connections at the "head" connection point via white with blue stripe wire, collapsing the circuit when headlights on condition prevails. Note that a tap for this is pulled off to CPU No.2, presumably for idiot beep purposes.

The switched connection of the relay runs to two locations via white with green wire: One to the retractable headlight relay, energizing its solenoid and popping up the eyes if they aren't already, and to the headlight switch on the column, where it is distributed to either the HL (low beam) or HU (high beam) circuit, depending on switch condition. From the HL, a red with white stripe wire splits to the two low beam connections on the headlights themselves, AND to the front fog light switch to allow activation of the foglights only when the low beams are on. While it isn't in the circuit diagram I have, there should be a relay actuated by switching the fog light switch, but don't hold me to it...

The HU connection is internally connected in the switch to the flash to pass switch connection, and from there to the high beam connections via red with yellow stripe.

Interestingly, the flash to pass feature pulls a tap directly off the feed to the solenoid, via the red wire, with no relay nor any retractable headlight actuation.

I didn't bother about the TNS relay (read that as parking lights), nor the E/L connection, nor the dashlights, nor the idiot beep for TNS and door open condition, as you prolly don't care much...

So I think a burley diode passing current fom the Red/White connection to the red/yellow would allow current to pass to both light systems either upon flash to pass or full brights condition (would light up the fogs too, if switched on). Lessee... 2 x 55W + 2 x 65W + 2 x 35W = 310W / 13.5V yields ~23 amps at full blast, more at turn on.. might need a bigger fuse. Or not. If you are just driving the circuits for Xenons, then current is much lower, no?

Personally, I LOVE point on the flash to pass where the highs come on but the lows and fogs are still running. Almost approaches decent lighting... Might have to try this myself, but need to watch the switch temps for possible meltdown, or blown fuse and thus no lights (at 110 mph, of course!! J/K)

Hope this helped in any way...

Easy as pie...


http://www.lighter.net/technical/7quadlamps.html

Sweet! Thanks for the tips and URL guys :bigthumb:

Re: the url. On the 93 the wires on the connector when viewed from left to right on the wire side are: Red with black stripe, Red with white stripe, Red with yellow stripe, and White with a black stripe. Sound correct?

I tried the jumper as described in the link, but it did not work. I even tried other combinations to no avail. Either the high beams circuit would close if the low beam circuit was close, or the high beams were on without the headlight switch even on ;)

No luck so far, but the end result will be worth it!

Forgot to add, Spuvo, the load placed on the high beam circuit, should be on the order of <1amp, meaning a semi-normal rated/sized diode could be used.

I am very tempted to just run a diode from the high circuit to the low beam circuit, however it seems a bit crude when the same thing can be accomplished on a low current level at the relays :D

Yah, wiring is teh phun...

I was looking at the linked site, and their directions, and their directions would only give you high beams with the low beams when the lows were on, as you are feeding voltage to both the low beam circuit (red/yellow) and the high beam circuit (red/white) when the headlight solenoid colapses, powering the white/green wire. I would guess connecting the solid red to the red/white gave you high beams all the time, as you simply bypassed the flash to pass (the switch that is closed when you pull the stalk) circuit, which is not run through the relay. Anyway...

If the load is only around 1 amp to drive the HID circuit, a diode would work fine I think, and be easy. The same thing can't really be done at the low current level unless you choose to add relays to the system. There is only one relay for the headlights (TNS relay not counted as it doesn't drive the headlights, only running lights and dash lights), and that one relay simply feeds power up to the light switch and then the switch feeds power to the rest of the lights. Kind of a dumb way to do it in my opinion as all that current is running through the switch, so a shorted light can burn stuff up before the fuse goes (this happened in my FC. Sucked, melted the switch and turn switch...). Nonetheless...

I can't really see an eeasy way to do it otherwise without a bunch of relays being added, all of which seems needlessly complex. Maybe someone else has a better solution that works easily with the current wiring sheme... sorry!

No problem Spurvo, the help is appreciated.

Ok, so since there are only switches, this approach of adding a jumper or diode at a low current level will not work. Not a big deal. Adding relays, I agree, are sorta silly, and will add weight and cost compared to diodes (which I purchased last night) for <$1.

After work I will take a few minutes and install them, so both high and low beams will function with the HIDs. Low is already astoundingly bright yet does not bother a single oncoming soul; I cannot even imagine how intense high beam will be :D

Done... output is incredible :cool:

Photos please?

Okay...I'm totally lost when it comes to electrical stuff, and I'm not sure if the info in this thread helps me out with my set-up...so someone who knows there stuff help me out, I'm gonna go nuts here.

I just recently retrofitted Bi-Xenon projectors into my housings...you know the ones that have the high beam solenoid which lifts the cut-off shield. Now, what I need to do is wire up the high beam solenoid on the projector, which is a simple - + connection, to lift and to keep the low's ON. Reading this thread is a little confusing, should I use a relay, diode, splice together wires?? Someone please chime in...thanks.

From looking at the wiring diagram (page 1327 of the manual available at www.iluvmyrx7.com ), it appears that the high and low beams are sharing the same ground. So you'll connect the negative (-) terminal of both beams to the black wire.

The diagram isn't immediately clear as to which wire is the high beams and which is low, but you'll connect the positive (+) terminal of the low beams to one wire and the positive (+) wire from the high beams to the other.

There are two wires to choose from: red w/ yellow stripe or red w/ white stripe. I'm going to guess that red w/ yellow should be high, but if I'm wrong then you can just flip them and use the red w/ white for highs.

-s-

edit: just realized that the stock system turns the low beams off when you activate the high beams. One way to get around this is by installing a relay. Install it right after the headlight switch, so you're not bypassing any fuses. What you want to do is splice a relay into the low beam wire. When the relay receives power from the high beam wire, it should turn on the low beams also. If you don't know how to wire this, it might be good to have someone else wire it for you.

-s-

For those who didn't get it to work you understand you need to install the diode in the proper direction?

I totally understand what your saying about the relay...basically the relay would be triggered by the high beam and will give juice to the low beam. My question is, can I have this same relay also trigger my projector solenoids at the same time with no ill effects.

EDIT: I read about the relay route before, but wasn't sure if there was a easier way like using a diode or splicing a wire. Thanks.

Easiest way is with a diode as that is the only part required. Think of a diode as the electrical equivalent of a one way valve as it will let current flow in only one direction; from anode to cathode.

Just use a diode to connect the coils of the stock high beam and low beam relays together. That way when you select low beam you get low beam only and when you select high beam you will get high+low.

So Damon, do you know which wires these would be? I'm assuming the link provided up above that connect two wires under the steering column are it...except I would need to use a diode in the connecting wire. I tried looking at the electrical diagram from luvmyrx7.com, but it's so darn confusing.:)

Not off the top of my head; have to check the schematics. Just have to locate the wires from the headlight switch that actuate the high and low relay coils.

Okay, connected the high and low beam wires with a diode right before the harness instead of the steering column and it works perfect. BUT, the only problem I have now is when I pull the high beam lever when the lights are down the headlight fuse blows! Other than that it's working perfect...I'm thinking I should've tapped in at the steering column now. The funny thing is that even if I use the retractor button to have the lights pop-up, even than the highs come on perfectly with the HID's. Any ideas?

BTW, It's not important for me to have my HID's come on when the lights are all down, but I don't want to blow a fuse if I accidently pull on the lever either.

Thanks.

I know this is old guys, but has anyone ever figured out a good solution to this?

with my sleek kit i just used the vacated headlight relay spot for the pop up actuators and wired it to the high beams, and the i use the button left of the gauge cluster used to pop up the headlights without turning on the lights, so whenever i want all 4 bulbs on just hit the extra button. clean install and can control whether i want both lights on.