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-   -   hesitation, bogging (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/hesitation-bogging-90315/)

matwey 07-01-02 12:44 AM

Wade,
at cold startup I read:
1280 rpm, L: Pr3, O2 R, T:-6degrees, 1r w/ an error code of 0200 after experiencing the 4.5k bogging

After resetting my battery I read:
1300 rpm L: Pr3, O2 R, T 1 degree, 1r,
II read:
1130 rpm, Pw: 3.8, O2 88R, F:7%

Once warm,
I read 13 lbs. boost at WOT, and 79% fuel. I just added a RB cat- back.
Any thoughts???

I Killed Tupac 07-01-02 01:33 AM

i think the average IQ of this site is at least double most of the Honda forums i am a member of.

Wade 07-01-02 12:32 PM

matwey,

Clearing the ECU like that can temporarily fix problems. If your problems were fuel cut caused by the stock ECU detecting knock, clearing the ECU would cause the stock ECU to "forget" about the knock. If you are encountering extra noise or knock though, the problem will probably come back. Drive for awhile and see what happens.

Wade

HotWheel 07-09-02 11:10 AM

It Worked !!
 

Originally posted by blackscorpio
Its your MAP (boost) sensor. When it pops of your idle gets low and eratic and you run really rich. At WOT you basically flood you engine, what you have to do is reconect the MAP Sensor (ties work the best the factory clamps suck). replace spark plugs (they should be pretty fouled by now) and oil(You will have gas in it thus the stinky oil) and reset the computer (negative off battery brake in for 30 seconds) and you should be all set.

If the MAP sennsor is hooked up (all hoses connected on it) and you may have a leak in the line or a bad MAP sensor. PM me If you have any questions.

I Reset the ecu with the neg termanal removed, held brake down for 30 sec. changed plugs(the left trailing was faled) put all new 9's in, checked and cleaned
teh ground near the UIP and added a 4g ground wire from PEP BOYs.
Thanks
Blackscorpio !! You Da Man
Problem is GONE;)

rotary-tt 07-09-02 11:31 AM

The problem usually comes back in a few days. At least it does for me.

Has anyone gone through the Shop Manual to the diagnostics section on Hesitation/Stumbles on Acceleration section F-226? There are 8 steps and 7 hints listed:

1. Fuel Injector leakage
2. Fuel Pressure regulator stuck
3. Spark plug high tension lead damaged
4. Bad plugs
5. Bad pressure sensor
6. EGR stuck
7. Double throttle valve stuck

It lists 14 voltages to check at the CPU for various sensors and valves.

Anyone want to have a go at it?

rotary-tt 07-11-02 09:07 AM

Anyone permanently fixed this problem without going to a PFC? Someone must have gone through the diagnostics above and determined what is up with this problem...

matwey 07-11-02 09:39 AM

Unfortunately no, and I have not had time to even try to fix mine w/ a PFC. I will try to get something done over the weekend though. I know I have at least one ground, we'll see about the rest.

rotary-tt 07-11-02 11:31 AM

My bet (for my car) is that it is #1 or leaking injectors. I am getting significant gas smell in the oil. Also the oil level would appear to be rising if not for my front cover oil leak.

Plasma2010 08-22-02 07:09 PM

My FD also hesitates around 3k. When the car warms up the hesitation is much less noticable but the problem is still there. I will try the map boost sensor and check my spark plugs again. Any other thoughts? My car is stock.

rotary-tt 08-23-02 09:36 AM

Havn't had time to diagnose yet. I still have the same problems. Now I've also picked up a bouncing idle with the air cond on while cold. I'm going to take everything out under the intake when I get a second car soon. There is a lot of discussion about it here http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/3k_hesitation.html but no consistent fixes. Pettit told me some cars are fixed by replacing the ignition harness. Since I have every ground known to man, I think it is my injectors. I still get gas leakage into the oil.

matwey 08-23-02 11:33 AM

I added a ground at the firewal from the expansion chamber. That and a new set of plugs seemed to help, but it is still there. I don't drive my car until it has hit at least 150 degrees. (Aftermarket guage)

blackscorpio 08-23-02 01:03 PM

Two words- MAP Sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I told you that weeks ago, did you check it yet.
You have all the symtoms of a blown off or loose MAP sensor hose. For the love of God just check it, Its 1 min to check and 2 mins to fix.

dubulup 08-23-02 01:06 PM


Originally posted by matwey
No, I have the Peter Farrell Purple Computer.
do you have to unplug the O2 sensor???

matwey 08-23-02 09:03 PM

dubulop: No, don't need to unplug O2

Black Scorpio: my bad, been working over 7 weeks w/ no days off. Need $ bad. Haven't done a thing for a few weeks. But, I promise I will check this weekend. Thanks 4 da advice.

93 R1 08-23-02 10:32 PM


Originally posted by dubulup


do you have to unplug the O2 sensor???

Check this out.
I was having problems kind of like these. Under light throttle while cruising at a constant speed anywhere between 2200-3600 RPM I would intermittently get a hesitation/bucking. Not like the "normal" 3k hesitation but much worse. It would "buck/hesitate" until I let off or gave it more throttle. This was more pronounced the hotter it was outside.

I called and talked to Peter directly and he said that this was a "lean misfire" caused by the factory ECU and was set like that for emissions purposes. Also he said it could have something to do with the secondaries coming online. The PMS "amplifies" the factory settings/maps and therefore the "lean misfire" is more noticable on some cars. He said to try:

1. Disconnecting the battery
2. Replace factory ECU if one was available
3. Unplug o2 sensor and drive around without it hooked up

I tried 1 and 2 and it didn't fix it. Recently Dont_Be_A_Rikki came over and we did a full non sequential conversion and left the o2 sensor unplugged and after about 600 miles IT'S GONE!!!!

I don't know if the o2 sensor trick fixed it or the full non sequential and bypassing the FPR solenoid?

Hope this helps.


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