Help: Car wont start after alternator
 

I pulled my alternator out to get checked, everything came back good. Went ahead and removed my air pump and put on greddy pullies while everything was out. After close inspection noticed the 2 wires to the alternator harness *the actual plug* were exposed and touching each other. Repaired that, put everything back together. Topped off all fluids double checked that I got everything connected all looked great. Started the car, was idling like crap, real low so I cut it off. Double checked the map sensor hose, tried to start again.. No dice. If I floor it, the car will start after a few cranks but wont stay running. Any ideas? Im honestly lost at this point.

~CosmoRx

Found a loose vacuum hose. Its a thicker one feels like it connects to a vacuum chamber or something under the elbow any ideas where it hooks to, I cant see anything.

hooks to check valve, just found a diagram. See if this works. Just documenting my problem on here incase anyone else ever has simular issue they can find this with search.

http://www.davidgeesaman.com/rx7/93v...lor.edited.jpg

Found the problem. Apparently the green plastic water temperature or water level sensor in the back of the waterpump housing *facing towards the ratnest* has dryrotted and broke. I knew i kept hearing a clicking noise, it was the relays when the wire bounced right it made contact, when I pushed it tight against the sensor, car fired right up, ran smooth. Any ideas where I can find a replacement sensor?

Sounds like you need a replacement harness connector, not the sending unit. (Fuel-temp connector should work also.) Several people have them on the classifieds.

Nope, the actual plastic connector to the sending unit is broke off, not the engine harness side.

Can anyone provide any information as to what size/type socket or wrench I need to remove the coolant temp sensor. It seams like its around 18mm but something in the bottom keeps it from sliding on.

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V5...70374/73661210

i believe the sensor is a 19mm not sure though...u need a deep socket that will fit over the connector and grab on the sensor!

If you are on stock computer or non standalone now would be a great time to do the fc thermoswitch. Search Dale Clark and FC thermoswitch and it should explain everything.

Thanks! Im running the M2 Stage 3 ecu or whatever. Seams to do the job well.

Ok, just looked into it. That is a different type sensor than what went bad on mine. It was the sensor on the back of the waterpump assembly that the green connector goes on, has 2 pin connector.

That's right. But I believe DJ meant that it's convenient to do the switch while you're in the same location.