HELP! Car wont exceed 4500rpms/120mph
 

ever since i got my FD, this thing is not passing 4500 rpms..and when on the highway, i can only take the car up to 120mph and then it would stop again...right when the car hits 4500rpms, the car jerks and bogs...the problem is, the car wont pass the 4500 rpm mark (at full throttle)..but if i ease off the accelerator and slowly rev the car without boosting, or adding a lot of fuel, the car can hit redline....

im not sure what's wrong with it, but i've put a few posts about it but nothing works... i replaced my spark plugs, (a few people told me to change em) the car is running smoother at idle but it still wont pass the 4500 rpm mark...

i was also told to change the fuel filter on my car after i had bought it...but the car doesn't even have a fuel filter... the lines are bypassed, and the fuel filter is replaced with a hose...so this car isn't even using a filter... im gonna try putting a new one in...

but im not sure what could be wrong, im thinkin its my turbos going bad, do u guys think i should replace my turbos next? anyone with a similar problem?

things that might help to know...
-Car idles really rough, when i put the car in first gear, the rpms drop to 300 or it even turns off...but if i take the car out of first gear, it idles fine
-vaccum is at 16-19
-boosts up to 8-9lbs
-white smoke at start up, black smoke when i accelerate hard

damn this car gives a headach, lol...
sorry if its long, but i really need some rotary guru's help!

thank u in advance.

can you ever hit Boost? If not then your in run safe mode and should be showing a check engine light.

Re: HELP! Car wont exceed 4500rpms/120mph
 

doh, hate it when i miss dumb stuff, like all of that.
White smoke is probably a little oil getting burned off, lots of fds do this usually nothing to worry about. Black smoke would make me think you are running rich, are you sequential still with a stock ecu? could be a bad solenoid causing the comp to go funky especially since it happens near the transition point of the turbos. Definately put in a fuel filter and check your engine codes for fun then clear them out.
hope this helps, or someone more knowledgable will jump in and figure it out.

Bob

it sounds to me like you have a collapsed catalytic converter. This is a common problem on FC's. Not so sure about FD's. Check the cat to see if there is an obstruction.

perhpas your secondary injectors are not comming on line or are clogged, could be cuz of the no fuel filter thing...

also, try resetting ecu. takes only a min and while your doing it, you can pull ecu codes easily :)

also, what does yoru boost curve look like? is it a soild 8-9psi all the way?

as for idle, it could be a clutch problem, are you having any trouble shifting? if not, check

dashpot
ISC
AWS
Wax rod assembly
fast idle screw
the airpump solenoid

good luck

P.S. check all vaccum hoses... then recheck them

Originally posted by dubulup
reason I ask is, When I had a 4500rpm limp mode due to a sticking sec. inj. the CEL never came on. Some codes get thrown and don't light the CEL.

saw this in another theread, agrees with the clogged secondary injectory theory. Plus the lack of a filter....... pretty good odds to me

Thanks for all the replys...
there is no check engine light, and my car hits boost for about 9psi all the way up to 4500 rpms and right when it hits 4500, the car jerks really hard and the boost is dropped to 4-5psi...

i just took the car to Aspec and they pretty much told me the same thing u guys said...it could be something with the solenoid and advised me to put back the fuel filter... the guy also said it could be clogged injectors due to no fuel filter...

how do i check engine codes...my ecu is stock right now but im plannin on gettin the motec ECU... would this somewhat help the car?

thanks for all the reply's im gonna probably try each thing one by one....

check out www.scuderiaciriani.com one of the best fd sites around, has the instructions for checking the engine codes....real simple. are you sequential? Check the vacuum lines under the UIM these mostly have to do with the secondary turbo coming onlline. Could just be a loose hose. Engine codes probably wouldn't register that.

new problem! car is idling at 400-0 .. shuts off sometimes... smells like fuel (kinda sweet) at start up and the car feels SLOW! wat can be wrong??

bump...

how do i reset the ecu..maybe im stupid but i cant find it anywhere online...

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, stomp on the brake pedal for about 20-30 seconds and then reconnect the battery cable.

i just pump the brakes twice then put negative terminal back on and that always worked, and that saves like 26 seconds of my life that I can waste playing video games or something........yesss!

what about the secondaries it still sounds like they could be sticking which would flood it at idle..... actually surprised it would even run at all.

hmm...mine sorta did something like that...when the vacuum line by the throttle body came off...

the vacuum lines are all on..i just had them all replaced with silicone hoses ... everything is attached.. but im really thinkin its my injectors...they might be clogged since i dont have a fuel filter... ill see wat to do.... damn this is frustrating

Make sure your silicone vacuum hoses are not collapsing - some types are too soft or thin. That could cause all sorts of problems.

<Newbie Speaking!>

Doesn't the primary turbo come on at 4500 RPMs?

Could that have anything to do with it?

I am having your exact problem and I have no clue what to do it started doing it only after I put on the HKS intakes , greddy DP, and had my oil pan gasket replaced did you ever find a solution to this? If anyone sees this post and send me a PM please.

First off, not having a fuel filter is just not a good idea period. Your injectors will get clogged, damaged, or efffected in some form or another.

Just rip out your injectors and see whats up in there, and get a fuel filter ASAP.

To me it sounds like your injectors are progressively getting more clogged, or possibly leaking more. If your motor runs too rich its just gonna flood out and die on you. Seriously, just take them out and see whats going on in there.

my car does that when i WOT, supposedly im overboosting from only a DP being installed and fuel cut comes on. i didnt have a boost gauge back when it was happening, but i dont WOT it no more until I get my PFC in.

To me it sounds like your secondary turbo is not comming on. It could be a number of things from a vac line to a actuator. As for the white smoke at start up I hate to tell you its not fuel, fuel burns black, white smoke is water. It sounds like a O-ring is starting to go out. I had this prob with mine and it eventualy went all the way out without warning.

Good luck, and post what the prob was after fixing it.

I am going to have to go with most everyone else and say this really sounds like injectors. If the car is in limp mode you won't get much above 4k RPM because it will sputter backfire and do whatever is can to NOT use its secondary injectors. Seems pretty obvious that with no fuel filter it was cause your injectors to go bye-bye, but ya know nothing is obvious with these monsters. :)

when i first bought my fd it had the same problem. It ended up being that my vaccum line was off of my turbo solinoid. Re-check all your vaccums and make sure they are not hooked up incorrectly. Also look at your turbo solinoids and make sure the nipple ends arn't broken.

RESET THE ECU.

Should fix the problem.

^ :rolleyes:

White smoke for the first few minutes after cold startup is simply condensation in the exhaust pipe. It is normal.

White smoke *after* the car has warmed up may be an early sign of O-ring failure. The bubbles in the coolant neck are the giveaway.

-bill