HELP! Can't get sequential twins to work properly
 

Hi all, I'm desperate to find a solution on how to get my twins to work right, No I don't plan to go single or have any rotary shop with experience (Panama, Central America).
I have a 02- rx7 with the newer blackbox and simplified sequential, bnr stage 3 twins, adaptronic modular.
Below I will post picture of the dyno and how I have everything routed. Since I can't find almost any info on how people simplified the 99+ cars with the newer blackbox I think maybe I have capped or done something wrong with it.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...750a7e99b4.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a978feb606.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1f1e289ebf.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...421a354d9e.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ebe50e91e2.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3b0c390201.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...53581d3fe3.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0ac7300b58.jpg

What is the boost pattern?

Here is my guide to troubleshooting -

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...s-how-1153111/

It does look like it's transitioning to the second turbo from the dyno graph but then tapering down.

What are you doing for boost control? Is the Adaptronic doing it?

Have you checked for boost leaks? A boost leak will drop your boost at the top end especially.

Dale

post screenshots of all the sequential turbo/boost control related settings in your Adaptronic

I posted the Series 7/8 Vacuum Diagrams in the appropriate Sticky Thread. Re-examine your vacuum plumbing, referring to the correct diagram and I'm certain the errors will appear.

The dyno chart implies an issue with the Secondary coming online as Dale Clark said. Charge Relief Valve seems like a good place to start here. Also, when were the vacuum lines replaced? Not to sound like a broken record, but Silicone Vacuum Hose is essential like on any other FD. Last, once all of your plumbing is Known Good and if it still behaves oddly, let me know and I'll walk you through rebuilding the Black Box.

My boost pattern is 15-10-15psi holding to redline, but at transition it take a whole 2 sec. for the change as you can see the long dip on the dyno, and also I feel is really low number for bnr twins with all the supporting mods
haven't done a boost leak, might give it a try and the boost is controlled by the mac valves and the adaptronic ecu remotely tuned

Yeah I have that printed everywhere and have checked 1000 times that are plumbed right, all the lines where changed like 3-4years ago, also the blackbox is new, almost everything is new in the car including the motor

This might sound like a dumb idea, but I've found that New=|= Known Good. Given how the car is behaving and the amount of effort put into it, I would feel better knowing beyond any doubt that the Vacuum Unit box is not the issue by testing each solenoid and check valve like every other FD owner does. It wouldn't be the first time a solenoid or 5 was failing when new.

Also, what's the deal with those MACs? Forgive me, brain is still loading right now (coffee). Just like in the Vacuum Unit, a solenoid that behaves "lazy" or leaks when it operates one of the changeover devices such as Turbo Pre Control Actuator,Charge Control, etc will produce a dip in boost or slow recovery as it "catches up"

One of the suggestions in my thread is to tee your boost gauge into the vacuum lines going to the main actuators for the twin turbo system. That's an easy way to see if they are operating like they should.

Is the Adaptronic doing the boost control?

Have you tried swapping the pre control and waste gate control plugs? If they are swapped you get a really weird boost pattern.

Dale