Help!!!!!!
 

car turns and drivable under 4k rmp. Even if i try to rev higher than 4k, engine start making noise and stays @ 4k, car died 2 days ago and had it towed home,. Black smokes not too much comes out as i try to rev the engine higher than 4k, but will never pass 4k. What could be the problem? Need professional help. Thanks in advance...

Check your spark plugs.

An improvement in your English writing skills might help us to better understand the problems with your car.

yeah seems like my spark plugs needs to be changed. And I am also do a tune up while @ it.


yea yea, whatever, if you didnt understood what I said, you wouldve have post ur dumb comment. And I ONLY asked for help, but not put downs.

How is the idle? Have you checked your MAP sensor? Have you searched these forums, or at least read the FAQ?

There is a huge troubleshooting section in the factory workshop manual. There is a sticky post at the top of the 3rd Gen section where you can download a copy.


By the way, I agree with cewrx7r1; this is not AIM chat or Myspace. Most of us are really sick of teenagers who aren't able to type or spell. If you can't take the time to type out an intelligent question, how do you expect to receive an intelligent answer?

I posted photos of the MAP sensor location over a year ago, but I don't feel like sending you a link anymore. Good luck changing your spark plugs, because I really doubt that is the cause of your problem.

-s-

^Good advice. That MAP sensor thread is HERE

Thanks

As far as things goes, I shall check my map sensor when I get home this weekend. Thank you for the responses, and I will try to be more comprehensive so people can understand the situation better. If I offended anyone saying some stupid stuff, I might be exhausted or got a bad day. Overall, I appreciated for everything, hopefully I can figure out what's the problem and get it fixed.

By the way, to clarify whats going on.
My car = 1993 FD with 107k on body and less than 30k rebuilt.
What really happened was few days ago, when i drove home normally(not pushing the car or boosting the engine, driving below 2.5krmp), trying to back up into the garage and the car died on me. At that point I felt weird and thought maybe I slipped on the clutch. Then the day after, same thing happened. So on the third day, thats when it really died on me as I drove to pick up my gf from work and leaving the parking lot. It died and wouldnt start up. I thought I over heated the engine or whatsoever, but the thermometer showed the temp to be okie and everything seems fine. So i waited 30 mins for it to restart again, but it dies after i let go of the clutch. So I am forced to drive it above 2k rmp and not let it idle. Half way home and it really died on and cannot be fire back up again. So I parked near by rev the engine and tried to rev over4k RPM but it wouldnt do so, first it had a bit of white smoke, but later it turned black, but not too bad. Also engine shakes after I tried reving over 4k but it wouldnt allow me to do so. So what could really be the problem?

p.s. Sorry for the long paragraph and elaborating myself being too descriptive, but I wanted every1 to know the situation and so I hope this clarifies everything. I will be changing my spark plugs and wires as AudioBot mentioned. Let me know what else could cause this problem and I shall have it fixed/check asap. Thank you very much everyone, I appreciated.

-Eric

Man, some of the symptoms don't look good. If the MAP hose is in place and the ECU has no stored codes, I'd look up the local rotary shop and get a compression check done.

Dave

Thats something I will be doing after I am done trouble shooting.

anymore advices will be gladly appreciated

Have you changed the plugs yet?

And to which plugs?

Keep it stock.

NGK 7's and 9's ONLY.

Side-note: I tried all 9's once... on a near-stock FD like yours and mine...bad idea. Use what Mazda made the car to use.

Re-post once you've at least done the plugs. Of the "problems" I experienced with my FD, and the one time where I thought I popped the motor...I had simply fouled the plugs. lol All 9's at that time. :P

also, when you replace the plugs, reset your ECU. It wouldn't hurt to try that as well. pull negative terminal, hold brake down for 1-2 minutes, replace negative cable. It can't hurt.

wow, i didnt know about that! ill do it when i do my tune up... do these cars have a limp mode cause it sounds like thats what hes describing. i would definately change plugs/fuel filter and try it then. start with the cheap and obvious and then try something else... good luck.

These guys are giving you good advice. Slow down, take a breather, check the plugs and then move to the MAP Sensor. I would get a compression test done on her also.

Wow thanks alot you guys. Great info, when i m back to SF this weekend, ill put the plugs and wires back into her and do all of the above and we'll see how this goes. But I do apprecaited all the adices given, thanks.
-Eric

Plugs and wires changed(Plugs were looking horrible, black tops), map MAP vacuum senor also checked. Well that didnt fix it, but it was able to make it to 6000rpm on neutral =) 2k more than before. I am wondering, could it be my turbos? Because I cant hear any spooling coming up, and usually it kicks in @ like 2.5k rmp, any more advices would be gladly apprecaited. Thanks
-Eric

Well if you gained 2k rpm by changing plugs / wires I'd be shocked if it wasn't the Igniter / Coils since that's what you haven't changed in the Ignition System, the '94 FSM should tell you what resistance the coils should have, and if they're out of spec... that's your culprit, and if not, try swapping for someone else's ignitor... or try a HKS twinpower from someone, and see if that "Cleans" up your signal...

Gaining 2k rpm by justi changing plugs and / or wires points at bad eletrical things afoot....

I'm certain someone will argue this...

-DC

Thanks, more advice would be apprecaited too =)

any more advices any1? I havent try the coil/igniters yet, but any1's advices will be apprecaited.

I had the same problem would not go over 4k, changed the plugs, igniter, checked the map, and had no codes come up. I had the car at KDR and Dave couldn't figure it out either so swapped out the ecu and, bam it fixed it havent had a problem since then and that was back in march.

so basically the culprit that caused the same problem with ur car was the ecu? hmm, interesting.

I've checked the ecu code, it came out to be 30. 30 = Solenoid valve - split air bypass. And I am not very familiar with that, can some1 please help me with this. Thanks

You need to stop asking so many questions! Does your mother still feed you smashed bananas with a spoon?!? Why haven't you learned to help yourself by now?


The answers to all of your questions are in the factory shop manual. It's pinned at the top of this forum, but here's a link for you:94 FSM's available for download . You should be able to read the entire troubleshooting section in 1-2 hours. It covers TONS of problems, and all the things that can cause them.

If you're too lazy to spend that much time learning how your car works, you can even stop and take a break when your brain gets tired.


-s-

I did spend plenty of time reading the faq. With those, I cant seem to find the solution to the "Solenoid valve - split air bypass" And trust me, i've done a lot of research, and hey, I aint lazy, I am just noob at this and needed some help. I do appreciated for the fact that you helped me earlier to check my vaccum boost and which I did, but that doesnt seem to be the problem. I've even done what my cousin told me and try to find what really the problem is, but I might not be as bright as you, so my finally conclusion is seeking help with the forum. But so far, I've received tons of help. But it is somewhat disappointing that we do have asses on this forum and like to make other feel miserable. Thanks for reading and trying to help whoever helped me, and I deeply appreciated.

The FAQ covers frequently asked questions only. Many people simply remove the secondary air system as the first sign of trouble. If you intend to keep it, at least that means replacement used parts are very easy to find.

If you haven't searched for "split air" or "code 30*" (the star makes a two character term into a 3 character term) or similar, you should pursue that.

But most of all, it's time to refer to the Factory Service Manual and follow the procedure specified for code 30.

Dave