HELP!! 28mi on rebuild+streetport BLEW oil seal!
 

Hi i was wondering if anyone has heard of a rebuilt streetport only lasting 28 miles??
what precautions should i take before inspecting? What are the possible culprits? anything will help me!! How should i go about fixing it?

The issue:
I purchased the motor from a guy on ebay, ( I know ebay sucks...blah..blah) well the seller tells me that the motor was rebuilt 28 miles BEFORE the oil pedistal broke and blew an oil seal. The car ran fine after but blew alot of smoke. The engine was rebuilt with new rotors and one newer housing by mazdatrix. Again the engine has rebuilt and street ported then blew an oil seal. I have 28 miles on the engine after the rebuild.

known mods at the time of the blown seal:
brand new hyper single stage 3 clutch and flywheel ; haltech e8 ; xs engineering front mount intercooler with custom made polised pipes with a greddy bov flange, and greddy rs blow off valve;modified primary injector housing with 2 new 850 injectors. This is from the gotham racing website: This upgraded primary fuel injector housing is designed to accept the stock 850cc secondary side-feed injectors.
THANKS!!

The link to the auction where i won the engine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...1063&rd=1&rd=1

I don't understand how breaking an oil pedestal can cause an oil seal to blow. The oil seal you're talking about is the oil control O ring in the engine right?

And, who did the rebuild?

i just received the motor today.i have no idea what seal is bad. just wanted to get some possible things on the table. thanks

Who rebuilt the motor? Could it be smoking because it is still burning off assembly lube? After all, only 28 miles.

i jesus i hope that is the fact ;-) i have no idea who built the motor. all the seller said is that he got it streetported when it was rebuilt 28 mi ago.

Do you have any receipts? Can you contact the seller to ask? How much oil is it burning? If you're losing a lot of oil, then one of the oil control rings must be bad. You'll have to crack open the engine.

If you're not losing oil, but it's smoking a lot, it could just be assembly lube burning off.

i emailed the seller but its too late to call him now. i will ask him tomorrow. all he said "The car ran fine after but blew alot of smoke." those are his exact words. this is coming after the fact that the "pedestal broke" from what he said.

Have you any clue what a pedestal is. It's what your oil filter screws onto. It has NOTHING to do with the engine.

Here's a picture of an oil pedestal, courtesy of REspeed. They're forum vendors, btw.
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalog/images/dash10.jpg

yes thanks for pointing that out. if the pedestal was broken correct me if im wrong then i would be spewing oil everywhere and it wouldn't be making it to my exhaust it would just cook on the motor. by the way i really appreciate your help (not sarcastic)

Oil shouldn't be making it to your exhaust. It should recirculate in your oil system - oil lines -> oil filter -> engine -> oil pan -> etc.

When you have smoke (blue), it means that there is a leak in the system, probably in the engine. So, oil control rings in the engine are leaky, leading to excess oil entering and being burnt by the engine which exits the exhaust as a blueish smoke.

If you have white smoke that smells like coolant (sweet), then you have a coolant seal failure.

If you're losing a lot of oil in your system, this would confirm an oil leak. If you don't want to tear apart the engine to check that all the seals and control rings are good, I guess you can fire it up and observe the rate of oil loss. It is possible to fire up an engine in vitro. There's a youtube video of an FC engine fired up this way, has Rotary Resurrection in the title.

You're welcome. I'm hoping the more knowledgeable guys will chime in. I am writing this from my very limited understanding of how a rotary engine works. I'm by no means an engine builder or a mechanic.

what would be the best case senario the oil just buring off? cause he said it smoked alot, then its the o rings? i dont mind disassembilng the block, easy as pi ;-) what should i use to lube up the internals when i put them back?

I think people use Crisco.................. no, seriously. Or there's that other thing, what's it called, oh yes Hylomar. But Hylomar's sticky and yucky to work with.

Dude, if cracking the block is not a problem, just do it and take a look at what you've bought. It would probably be the o rings if it's OIL smoke you're trying to fix. Water seals if it's coolant smoke.

By the way, you should probably use the Search button on the top right. You will be able to find much more information than I can possibly provide you. The FSM is good for checking tolerances too.

will the seals be visibly damaged how can i tell. is it just common sense. feel for cracks and tears. im just hoping its somthing like his ecu was shitty or something. while i have it appart i might shave down the exhaust ports as well

Here's a picture of Oil Control Rings, Oil Control Ring "O"Rings and Oil Control Ring Springs. If you see any of them cracked, missing, abducted by the jealous piston guys, you know where you're losing oil.

Courtesy of Mazdatrix:
http://mazdatrix.com/pictures/b-engprt/rotorkit.jpg

I think there are like 8 of each ring and 8 corresponding springs.

well thanks i will post on this thread tomorow night with what i have found. thanks envy
u da man!!

You're welcome. Take tons of pictures for us!!! Good luck!

Engine assembly lube like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81950.../dp/B000HBNVSK

ok i got to inspecting it more and i looked into the intake port and i saw oil. the only way i thought you could get oil in your intake is if the turbos went bad. this would explain the blue smoke out the exhaust and the motor being fine with just having only 28miles.
and i found a bearing that is trashed inside the counterweight.