Guide to first start up after years of sitting?
 

Hey guys, looking for a guide for proper maintenance and prep for first start up after a long period. I tried to search and only came up with people asking questions and no in depth guides. If anyone knows of one please share. Thanks!

I think the biggest issue you're going to have right off the bat in a humid climate like Florida, is rust on the apex seals. And minimizing damage to get them un-stuck.

After that it's all about Fresh Fluids, especially Gas, I'd Siphon as much out, as I could, and use some fresh gas with some injector cleaner, possibly some oil/gas premix, to see if you can minimize any buildup of old gas through the injectors, and or reduce wear and tear on the housings.

Oil Change, Radiator fluid flush, with just distilled water, and then again after it's running with antifreeze and distilled water, if no premix (Antifreeze/Water) is used. (Look on the bottle if it's "Premix" don't add water)

I would also look at any belts or hoses that showed cracking and replace them.

It's not really Magic, it's looking at things that can break / should be replaced. Things that you can't change like rust on side / apex seals, and minimizing damage from that. Then, dealing with the fact that the Fuel in the system has turned to Jello, and how much you want to protect yourself from having issues due to an improperly functioning fuel system.

After that it's more about listening/watching to what's going on with the motor, and replacing things that seemed fine, but somehow aren't working properly.

Thanks for the reply. I've already emptied the gas and got 5 gallons of fresh premium and added proper amount of premix and injector cleaner/gas dryer to it. I also bought some oil to add to spark plug holes to help free up motor and change oil. The belts and hoses look good but I think I'm going to change them after its running for a vmount so everything will be fresh either way. Right now I need to figure out where all the plugs go on this single turbo harness, it's a nightmare -_-

Drain all the old gas including the fuel lines. Replace the fuel filter. If there is residue in the tank you will have to clean it. I recently had a car come in that sat for 6+ years. The entire fuel pump assembly and inside of tank was rusted. We had to replace the pump and assembly, and clean the inside of the gas tank with rust remover. Disconnect the fuel lines at both ends of the car and blow them out. It would also be a good idea to send the fuel injectors out for cleaning.

Replace ALL the fluids: engine oil, trans/diff gear oil, coolant, brake fluid.

Squirt liberal amounts of engine oil into the spark plug holes and down the intake runners.

Turn the motor over by hand and make sure it spins freely and there is no binding. Do this with the spark plugs out so it is easier to turn. I would repeat this 2-3 times and even let the motor sit overnight to let the oil soak into the seals.

Pull the egi and prime the motor before attempting to start it. If you get the car to run pay close attention for any leaks as hoses could split from age.

change out the fuel filter before you start it

I'll clean out the fuel lines for sure I didn't think about that. If anyone is any good with single turbo wiring harnesses feel free to send me a message or give me your number if you'd like to help me identify some of these plugs

Post pics of any connectors you're not sure of.

I think this one is OMP, which I'm assuming isn't necessary if I'm premixing? Either way there is no corresponding plug on my engine harness..
Attachment 619264

This next picture i think shows transmission harness plugs? I don't know if one of them plug in up top or if they all plug in under the car.
Attachment 619265


Ill take more pictures tomm in the light these are all i had on my phone.

Those are transmission plugs, it goes from the engine wiring harness down to the transmission. You will have to plug them in under the car. That harness goes along the top of the transmission (moreso driver's side) to the plugs. There are little clamps on the transmission to hold the harness in place.

Also, I would get a new throttle body O-ring. That blob of red RTV isn't gonna cut it, that's gonna be a boost leak.

One thing to re-iterate is pulling the EGI fuse and cranking until you have oil pressure. Starting a dry engine is the #1 killer of turbo bearings. When you do start it, if you have a stock ECU, start it in gear so the 3000 RPM startup doesn't kick in. If you have a PowerFC you won't have the 3000 RPM startup.

Oh, top picture is the plug for the OMP.

Dale

That trans harness is routed completely wrong. It should exit under the intake manifold and run over the trans to the connectors on the driver's side.

Thanks dale, I have a fresh seal for the tbody, I'm pressure washing the pavement today so I won't be laying on muck when I'm working on it. If it dries I'll hook everything up today, if not I'll just wait until tomm. I was going to put some oil in plug holes, turn the motor, put a little more in, turn motor by hand again, and one last time to hit each face. Is this not necessary since I'm going to turn it over without egr fuse to build pressure? When I got this thing running it ran hot and I believe it's because the last owner has some ugly flow restricting radiator necks. Let me know if your interested in taking a look over the setup to give some over all advice on getting this this running healthy.

Oh and the tranny harness actually splits off way back where the manifold is so ill slide it backs, thanks for the tip!