got 3 questions....need 3 answers
motor has 30k on it and the seals went..where can I buy just the new seals not a whole gasket set.....
where can I buy a new 5th gear synchro and the shaft *thing* and the last...i pulled my engine after I noticed the coolant seal issue and didnt think to do a compression check. Can I do one cold? if so what should i see.....if I cant well then that sucks cause the motor is sitting on my floor :) this is my brain on no sleep feel free to bitch at me for not searching |
pulling the motor apart and not replacing all the seals is asking for trouble. Save your money and purchase a full rebuild kit. Get the video on how to do it to, watch it and you will know why you have to replace all the seals.
The video is 25 bucks from www.RotaryAviation.com |
yeah i know..but im being ghetto
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Originally posted by obviousboy yeah i know..but im being ghetto I would also be very concerned with tracking down the cause of the reason the coolant seals are gone at only 30k miles. |
Re: got 3 questions....need 3 answers
Originally posted by obviousboy motor has 30k on it and the seals went..where can I buy just the new seals not a whole gasket set..... where can I buy a new 5th gear synchro and the shaft *thing* and the last...i pulled my engine after I noticed the coolant seal issue and didnt think to do a compression check. Can I do one cold? if so what should i see.....if I cant well then that sucks cause the motor is sitting on my floor :) this is my brain on no sleep feel free to bitch at me for not searching Mazda Need to be able to crank it with the starter. See Shop Manual. Believe 90 psi or so is min compression using rotary compression tester. You can get a rough idea by using a standard compression tester and removing the valve which makes it keep max readings. Need to see the compression over all 3 faces of the rotor... |
Originally posted by rynberg Then sell the car. Seriously. You can't rebuild a motor without replacing all the gaskets/seals. I suppose you could re-use the apex seals but how much is that saving you. I would also be very concerned with tracking down the cause of the reason the coolant seals are gone at only 30k miles. Anyways the reason that seal is gone was probably a really piss poor rebuild or someone over heated the thing (when i bought the car it wouldnt hold fluid, found that out once it showed up at my house on the trailer, got worse from there). ...But if I get good compression and everything else checks out fine why not just replace the problem and leave the things which are running fine alone? thats all im asking |
Re: Re: got 3 questions....need 3 answers
Originally posted by rotary-tt Mazda Mazda Need to be able to crank it with the starter. See Shop Manual. Believe 90 psi or so is min compression using rotary compression tester. You can get a rough idea by using a standard compression tester and removing the valve which makes it keep max readings. Need to see the compression over all 3 faces of the rotor... thanks bro |
ray at malloy mazda sold me the 5th gear synchro and the updated select spindle for cheaper than what i could get the 5th gear synchro from the local mazda. Malloy's number is 888-533-3400 lol i bought a whole clutch system from him in the past month... oh yeah he gives free ground shipping also!!!
later john |
Originally posted by obviousboy Anyways the reason that seal is gone was probably a really piss poor rebuild ...But if I get good compression and everything else checks out fine why not just replace the problem and leave the things which are running fine alone? thats all im asking You NEED to buy the gaskets to reassemble the motor. Apex/corner seals are a couple of hundred dollars. Are you willing to put together a shitty rebuild to save a couple of hundred dollars? |
Originally posted by rynberg And so you want to do another piss-poor rebuild? You NEED to buy the gaskets to reassemble the motor. Apex/corner seals are a couple of hundred dollars. Are you willing to put together a shitty rebuild to save a couple of hundred dollars? |
you can only reuse certain seals, FACT
you can't do a good compression check when it's cold, FACT you should sell your car OPINION, but damn near fact |
If you do a half ass job you will get half ass results. I agree with both Ryn and 93.
Tear it down, replace everything, reassemble and don't worry if you should have replace anything. |
obviousboy, you sound like you really dont care about your engine, as long as it runs.
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If the engine had maybe 5000 miles on her, I'd just replace the water seals(buy an FC o-ring kit and call her good), BUT an engine with 30,000+...replace ALL seals/springs/o-rings. Rotary Aviation has some crazy cheap prices on a rebuild kit(internal seals/springs/o-rings).
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