goodbye
 

to that god forsaken OEM fuel filter!!!

I did a move to the engine bay with a K&N too bad I decided to do it in 93 degree heat. damn.. where's my beer.

-Greg

Write up a how to?

is the engine bay to hot or can you do that because my rear end is out. that would be sweet

thought about it. but the G/F didn't remember to bring down the digicam.

here's a quick run down.

1. Release fuel pressure: I didn't do this the long way, I just took off the gas cap.

2. Jack up car rear: go up as high as you can go, the more room the better

3: Get yourself more room: Remove both side underpanels. Driverside: plastic, Passenger side, aluminum. 5 10mm bolts each. Next remove the two bolts holding the filter in place. 2 10mm bolts (use a 3" extension). Next, I took the 2 bolts out of the big black cylinder (possibly a catch can) 2 10mm bolts (6" extension)

4. Spend a day trying to remove the hose clamps on the OEM filter: I ended up saying fuck it and taking a pair of shop scissors to the line on either side of the filter. I wasn't going to reuse them anyway. use a large towel to catch all the gas that comes out. I don't know how much it was, but it was enough if I didn't have the towel, it'd be alot more messy.

5. Spend another day trying to remove the hose clamps on the hard lines: I ended up getting one of them off (the one going to the front of the car).

7. Make a filter replacement. Because i was stil going from part of a hose to another part of a hose, I needed to make a coupler to go inbeteween. use 2 1/4 npt male to 5/8 hose barb (got from the auto part store) and a female to female 1/4 npt coupler (got from a harware store. in plumbing) use some lock tape and put the 3 pieces together

7. install the filter replacement: So I used about 18" of 5/8" steel braided hose and secured it onto the hardline with a hose clamp. then I straightened my cut on the extisting part of the hose connected to the hardline going to the gas tank (if you cut it straight the 1st time you don't have to straighten it out). Pop the coupler in and clamp it down with some hose clamps.

8: put everything back on in reverse. do step 3 and 2. backwards. then get a beer.

9. under the hood. look for 3 hoses just to the right of the oil dipstick. you're going to want to remove the hose closest to the dipstick. start by removing the strut tower bar (if you have one) and then the inlet elbow. again, the more room the better.

10. Get your filter: I got the K&N mini billet fuel filter with -6 AN fittings from summmit racing. then I got 2 -6 AN female to 5/8" hose barb connectors (Part number 915106) by e-mailing the contact on earl's plumming's website.

11. get the Ho's (hose) outta there: remove the 2 hose clamps and yank out that hose

12. get a comperable piece of 5/8" steel braided hose and clamp it on either side of the new filter, then install the filter with hose to where the old hose and filter was.

13. Put everything back where you found it.

14. prime the fuel system. open the box that says DIAGNOSTIC on it and use a speaker wire to connect the GD (ground) and (F/P) fuel pump. turn the ignition (don't start the car on, just put it in acc) and let it run for 10 seconds. turn off the car and check for leaks

15. check for leaks: start the car and let it run continously check for leaks. I did this for about 10 minutes

16. Have a beer.

jet- a lot of people have done this with no ill effects... yet -*knocks on wood *-

Good job BigRed, I nominate you for forum member of the month.

I was thinking of moving mine to the opening right in front of the rear wheel on the drivers side underneath and behind the sideskirt. I've been told the spot is the perfect size. Do you guys think it would be better there or under the hood? I don't like the idea of a pressurized tank of gasoline sitting under the hood :)

Nice writeup though. Part numbers are always great.

Garfinkle puts them on the rear of the rear sub frame, useing the stock bracket and a filter with out the 180 degree tubing. Drill and tap two holes and run the new hoses . No engine fires , no tight spaces to work in and 1 or 2 minute filter changes .

If it makes anyone feel better, the VW rabbit I used to have had the fuel filter under the hood. So did the civic my family used to have.

so do FC's

I've had my K&N under the hood for years now. I'm ditching the K&N & switching to an Aeromotive.

I've had one filter element flaten out & bend on me, now it seems that there is a large pressure drop across the filter which could be one of the reasons my in-tank walbro is dying. My A/F on the dyno last Friday was 10.5:1 up to 6K where it would then lean out to 12.5:1 When I tried to richen up the correction map above 6K the A/F went leaner meaning the rail pressure is dropping & my fuel system can't keep up with the demand of 550 & 1300's at 83%

I'd recommend a Purolator Mustang filter, or an Aeromotive filter (although I haven't tried the aeromotive yet).

i am getting the purolator filter today, but its the rx7 one... they tell me it is discontinued... anyway,

nice job relocating the filter... i would do it but i figure its not that bad if you only have to do it every 30,000 or so miles.....

john

There is a possibility of the gas getting to hot and turning to fumes inside the filter which is one bad thing with the move. I have only heard of it happening a few times though....

Not really. I wouldn't call the FC in the engine compartment.

I think relocating it isn't worth the time or effort. It doesn't need to be changed that often. THere is enough stuff in the engine compartment already.

The closer to the tank the filter is the less chance of crap traveling through the lines. Keep it near the back of the car.

I've had no problems with my K&N in the engine bay for about 2 years now

well, wait a minute, one time I did not properly tighten the filter housing and it was pissing gas all over my hot engine.....that was pretty scary ;)

I still wouldn't go back to the old filter location even if the car burned to the ground :D