front fender lip rolled??what the ??
#1
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front fender lip rolled??what the ??
I've seen this on the forum before but never a detail explanation of what it means...what kind of bodywork is this?
any disadvantages....
why do this....
any disadvantages....
why do this....
#4
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Re: ?????
Originally posted by Blade7
WTF!! You didn't explain how!! yeah everyone knows that it is done to gain more clearance BUT, HOW? How does one do it? What are the steps!!
thanks
WTF!! You didn't explain how!! yeah everyone knows that it is done to gain more clearance BUT, HOW? How does one do it? What are the steps!!
thanks
#5
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There is at least 3 ways to do it.
1. Buy a $900 fender rolling tool.
2. Take it to a body shop and have them pound it out.
3. Use a baseball bat.
1. Don't try to do too much too soon. Take your time to avoid cracking the paint on the inside of your fender. Coated the lip with some black under-body protector to hopefully keep it safe from rust. It may also help to use a heat gun to warm the paint before working on it to make the paint somewhat more flexible.
2. Put a rag between you car and the bat... this will keep the paint from the bat form damaging the paint on your car.
3. You'll constantly need to raise and lower your car with the jack in order to get the bat in and out of the fender... make sure you have your wheels chocked so your car doesn't roll back unexpectedly.
4. Only roll as much as you need to! Don't risk cracking the paint by trying to roll the whole lip. I've been told that you only need to roll the very top of the lip. I'd suggest rolling a little, then drive your car to see if you've cured you problem.
5. Make sure you have a small chair available or your back will be killing you from bending over!
Good Luck!
1. Buy a $900 fender rolling tool.
2. Take it to a body shop and have them pound it out.
3. Use a baseball bat.
1. Don't try to do too much too soon. Take your time to avoid cracking the paint on the inside of your fender. Coated the lip with some black under-body protector to hopefully keep it safe from rust. It may also help to use a heat gun to warm the paint before working on it to make the paint somewhat more flexible.
2. Put a rag between you car and the bat... this will keep the paint from the bat form damaging the paint on your car.
3. You'll constantly need to raise and lower your car with the jack in order to get the bat in and out of the fender... make sure you have your wheels chocked so your car doesn't roll back unexpectedly.
4. Only roll as much as you need to! Don't risk cracking the paint by trying to roll the whole lip. I've been told that you only need to roll the very top of the lip. I'd suggest rolling a little, then drive your car to see if you've cured you problem.
5. Make sure you have a small chair available or your back will be killing you from bending over!
Good Luck!
#6
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I'll go backwards from the previous post....
3) The baseball bat thing will work put will prolly crack your paint. Hard to control and go real slow....it's not very neat but will give you the clearance. (don't ask how I know )
2) When "tapping" the fender lip out, watch out for the fender liner screws that fasten them to the fender. A good hit will result in a zit popping out of your fender. (again, don't ask how I know )
1) You don't have to buy it. Tire Rack rents this tool out with a video and a heat gun. The heat gun softens the paint so it's more pliable. The tool clamps to the bolts on the rotor hat and has a roller that clamps to the fender. You then 'crank' this roller through the arc of the fender. The tool is made by Haweka.
Good luck...
3) The baseball bat thing will work put will prolly crack your paint. Hard to control and go real slow....it's not very neat but will give you the clearance. (don't ask how I know )
2) When "tapping" the fender lip out, watch out for the fender liner screws that fasten them to the fender. A good hit will result in a zit popping out of your fender. (again, don't ask how I know )
1) You don't have to buy it. Tire Rack rents this tool out with a video and a heat gun. The heat gun softens the paint so it's more pliable. The tool clamps to the bolts on the rotor hat and has a roller that clamps to the fender. You then 'crank' this roller through the arc of the fender. The tool is made by Haweka.
Good luck...
#7
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whooly Sh@#
What the hell are you guys talking about....bats, heat guns on my baby. Are you nuts?....no really, it sounds just a tad scary to be batting the hell out of my car.
Has anyone had a body shop do this?? I know the sheetmetal on the FD is very THIN!!
Anyone with some pics or diagrams???????
Has anyone had a body shop do this?? I know the sheetmetal on the FD is very THIN!!
Anyone with some pics or diagrams???????
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#8
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Re: whooly Sh@#
Originally posted by clearthinker
Has anyone had a body shop do this?? I know the sheetmetal on the FD is very THIN!!
Anyone with some pics or diagrams???????
Has anyone had a body shop do this?? I know the sheetmetal on the FD is very THIN!!
Anyone with some pics or diagrams???????
#10
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I've seen some really nice fender rolling jobs done. A guy I know had the fenders on his 300zx rolled to fit 17x11's in the rear. It'd been repainted afterwards, but I'm sure a job that big cracked the paint. I think it's definitely worth the time/money if the jobs done right. It adds so much to the appearance of the car and gets rid of any rubbing sounds or slashes in the tires.