Finished solenoid relocation
ok guys, here it is, my version of what everybody wants to do: although i had to use the stock solenoids until i find a more reliable replacement. it only took me one day to do; wiring and then vacuum hoses altogether so here goes. i kinda had a head start because i already had the rats nest removed.
also, if anybody else read my last thread about going to do this i'll just post these pics up anyways. I used the stock rack where the solenoids mounted, i just cut the ends off of it and drill a hole so TC2 could fit. http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...4/DSC00014.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...4/DSC00011.jpg I STARTED OFF BY UNWRAPPING THE SMALL WIRING HARNESS FOR THE SOLENOIDS http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00050.jpg THEN I STARTED THE SPLICING; I USED SHRINK WRAP AND I SOLDERED EACH CONNECTION; I KNOW WHAT YOURE GOING TO SAY BUT I COULD ONLY FIND PINK SHRINK WRAP http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00058.jpg HERE IS COMPLETED IMAGE OF ALL THE WIRING IN THE ENGINE http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00060.jpg AND THEN IT IS WRAPPED; I WASN'T DONE IN THIS PICTURE http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00063.jpg AND THEN I RAN THE WIRES FOR THE CONNECTORS TO BEHIND THE ABS AND DID THE SAME SHRINK WRAP SOLDERING DEAL OVER THERE http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00064.jpg CONNECTED MY SOLENOIDS AFTER THE SOLDERING AND WRAPPING WAS COMPLETED http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00065.jpg THEN I STARTED RUNNING THE VACUUM HOSE GOING SIMPLIFIED SEQUENTIAL, NOTICED HOW I USED THE 5-WAY SPLITTER FOR THE HOSE THAT RUNS FROM THE VACUUM CHAMBER I ALSO ONLY USED 2 OTHER "T"s http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00069.jpg THEN IT WAS PRETTY MUCH DONE AFTER THAT; I KINDA RAN OUT OF VACUUM HOSE BUT I'LL HAVE TO PICK UP SOME LATER http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00072.jpg |
AND HERE IS THE FINISHED PROJECT
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00076.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00075.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...n/DSC00070.jpg THE THINGS I WOULD HAVE DONE DIFFERENT: 1. I WOULD HAVE RAN THE VACCUM HOSE BEHIND THE Y-PIPE 2. I DIDN'T HAVE A CHANCE TO FINISH THE SOLENOID BRACKET BUT IT TURNS OUT THAT YOU CAN PRETTY MUCH MOUNT IT FINE WITHOUT ONE 3. I WOULD HAVE MADE SURE I HAD ENOUGH VACUUM HOSE; I RAN OUT JUST BEOFE I COULD DO THE WASTEGATE CONTROL AND TURBO PRECONTROL; THE SHORTEST LINES TO RUN 4. I WOULD RELOCATE THE IAT AT THE SAME TIME TO ALLOW ENOUGH CLEARANCE FOR THE PRESSURE CHAMBER |
if anybody has ANY questions please ask them; i'm sure you're not the only one.
also, I DO NOT have an EGR, solenoid or connector (which is supposed to be yellow) so yours may differ |
This should probably be added to the FAQ/Guides thread.
Nice work, looks tidy! Compliments your wiring harness work nicely. |
^thanks man
i'm here for you guys |
It usually takes me a few times to get things right when I'm working on my car. :) Soooo.....the million dollar question, after all that work, does the car boost properly???
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i still have to check for all that because right now my radiator is busted and i can't drive the car
this relocation is for if/when the solenoids do break it is much easier to troubleshoot and replace them as necessary |
i basically just did what rob robinette did to his car; i just used the stock solenoids
if everything works right in the beginning and you do everything right the first time, which it isn't that hard so you should, you should be fine |
Those vaccum lines will get cooked on top of the turbo...I Believe
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Not if you do this with viton. :)
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You should check out this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...3&page=1&pp=15 I have a set, but may consider selling it as I'm likely to go single turbo. Either way check it out. |
Looks pretty good, although it seems like you've lengthened quite a few vacuum lines. Please post and let us know how it goes.
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the lines above the turbo won't get cooked; they're not on the hot side
but if you read that part where i said the things i would do different was that i will route all the lines behind the y-pipe |
any feedback yet on how the turbos respond to the lengthened vacuums>?
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^
The threads not even a day old. On post #7 he says his radiator is busted so he can't drive his car to find out if it works. |
i can imagine the response time would be negligible
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it looks good man, nice job
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Nice job, i might follow suit since i have to get in there to solve boost issues, so why not relocate at the same time? you did good.
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read the things i would do different that i kinda have to do *again*
but oh well, that's how we learn. |
too bad the don't make viton solenoids :(
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just to let you guys know
i also had a block off plate installed allowing me to elminate the switching/relief solenoids, double throttle, and EGR (for those of you that have it) the solenoids i kept are the Charge control, Charge relief, Turbo Control 1&2 and the PRC |
You've now spent and butt-load of time relocating the battery, fuse box and solenoid rack....ostensibly for reliability and ease of maintenance.
But your still running the stock plastic AST and stock IC and probably the stock radiator. You also have oil leaks, a seeping brake fluid resevoir, and the stock 'Y' pipe and cross over (that could be replaced with the efini). How long has it been since you've flushed and changed the coolant, or replaced the gear oil in the transmission and differential? How about a plug change or brake fluid change? As I said earlier, I suppose the relocations are all well and good...but I don't understand your priorities. |
all that is well on my list of "things to do"
the car is down right now and while i'm waiting on parts i'm killing time by doing the stuff that they don't make kits for. i honestly just replace the transmission but i don't want to drive it until i get the neo synthetic gear oil and put it in the differential too i am very good on the maintenance of the car; it runs very well, even after all this the idle doesn't hunt, it's nice and steady the radiator is busted too but i'm waiting until rx7store gets their v-mounts back in stock to buy the ic/rad v-mount setup at the same time i can't drive the car at all lately, it was in storage for the past year and i just took it out a couple months ago. also, my resources are limited, i don't have a constant place to work on the car and the hobby shop on base charges outrageous for work time. so i have to do the things i can in kind of a rush....but i try to do it right. what's really nice though is now the engine is dumb easy to take out. i appreciate all the props i've gotten but you always get that one that has to critisize some don't get the whole work in progress. |
that looks like a ton of work
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^i followed your signature
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Originally Posted by tt7hvn
(Post 8664898)
.....i appreciate all the props i've gotten but you always get that one that has to critisize
some don't get the whole work in progress. I get the work in progress thing. But even after your explanation... limited funds and all, it still doesn't make much sense. But it is your car. |
i understand where an oil leak is more important to repair than say, relocation a perfectly working wiring harness
but at the same time, i can't drive the car at all some days i don't feel like getting all oily and greasy so i'll do the wiring then when i don't feel like getting burnt by my soldering iron i'll do the dirty jobs it's not a problem of limited funds; its more limited resources (a place to do all this) BTW; i was having a boost issue before, my secondary wasn't kicking in but before i did the relocation and i noticed so many hoses disconnected and what not so doing this gave me the opportunity to repair all that i wasn't expecting all props but i did say at the beginning of the thread, i apologize for the filthy engine bay concentrate on what the thread was intended |
how many feet of tuning did you end up using?
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I think the idea is fine, but wow it looks like crap. I'd go nuts if my engine bay looked like that.
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Theres gotta be a better place to put them. They aren't that big.
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i basically just mimiced rob robinette, i thought about putting them behind the UIM i'd have to move the brake lines that are in the way otherwise i'd mount it right behind the engine on the firewall. i kinda did this as an expermient to gauge how i feel on how it looked overall. i'm happy with it so far but i might move them provided i can find a better place.
and i'm also not happy with how the engine bay looks right now, its horrible. |
I'm very curious to hear how well the car runs with all of those lines being so long. My experience with a longer prespool line was a bad one. I hope it all works properly.
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ok guys, update:
just got my boost gauge installed and will be posting a vid of the boost gauge in a 3rd gear pull it seems that at the transition i'm going down to around 7psi and then going back up to 10 which is pretty good considering the longer lines all in all, the car is running awesome and i really don't notice much of a difference with the relocation |
I did this on my last FD years ago. I noticed no difference. I remounted the rack in the stock battery box to hide them mess so the engine bay didnt look like a POS. Took a while soldering all the connections.
Too bad I ended up getting t boned a few months later and the car was totaled so it was all for nothing. Picked up a new fd with a single and havent looked back since. |
that sucks bro, sorry for your loss cuz for me it was a lot of work and tedious
for a street car though i enjoy the stock twins and when they work it's like nothing else |
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