FD Universal Joint Replacement?
Has anyone replaced the U-Joint on an FD driveshaft? I know they are non replaceable but I have seen it done on the 1st and 2nd gens. Is there anything out there that's 3rd gen specific...
Thanks |
You won't find much on this. Typically the U-joints are extremely reliable.
The PPF keeps the diff and trans in a straight line so the U-joints don't have much flexing they have to do. If you do have bad ones for some reason I'd just buy a good used driveshaft. They should be a dime a dozen and most likely going with aftermarket U-joints would probably cause more problems down the road. That said, what are the problems you are having? I'm wondering if you're having an issue that's misdiagnosed. Dale |
Swapped to a 3.90 auto carrier and diff with the 4.125" flange. Need a way to get the auto driveshaft flange onto my driveshaft by means of a new U-joint. Reason I cant use the auto shaft is because I'm running a T56... Was more or less hoping someone had done some leg work early on about a possible replaceable u-joint, if not ill have to dig around myself :(
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Yeah...you may be on your own...not a lot of info out there on FD u-joints.
Mazda has a funny history with replaceable u-joints...seems like a lot of their models don't have them. I've had several B2000 pickups that didn't have replaceable u-joints...you had to replace the whole driveshaft...like on the FD. I'd imagine it would all be in a day's work for a driveshaft shop...but the cost is likely to be more than a used shaft...which of course the used shaft isn't an option for you... Good luck! |
If you already have a T56 to manual driveshaft, why not just change the flange on the diff to the manual one?
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Originally Posted by Mikelivi91
(Post 12219083)
Was more or less hoping someone had done some leg work early on about a possible replaceable u-joint, if not ill have to dig around myself :(
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 12219663)
If you already have a T56 to manual driveshaft, why not just change the flange on the diff to the manual one?
Edit: And also I read your post completely wrong lol. Changing the flange on the diff would be another great option for me. Something so right in my face I didn't even think about. I will try and source one this weekend as I sold my whole manual 4.10 setup just last week. |
On a side note. I grabbed a few U-joint catalogs from my local NAPA to check into this weekend. Also thinking about machining out the old press fit collars, as well as machining down the actual inside mounting surface to fit a standard joint with internal locks. I was hoping for a bolt in solution but it seems the only real option for me at the moment is machine work or as posted above ^^ change the diff flange to a manual.
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The diff flanges are a direct swap, I have done it a bunch of times when installing 4:30 diffs into automatics.
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 12219747)
The diff flanges are a direct swap, I have done it a bunch of times when installing 4:30 diffs into automatics.
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I have a spare, new they list for $190 and can be found for around $130-ish + shipping. You can have this one for $70 shipped, we can get it out today, you might see it tomorrow. If you don't want it no big deal, I really do not like selling used parts.
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