I completely agree. That is why I stated my question as I did. Not always do studies and valid test results always translate to 100% reality. It is near impossible to re-create a 100% accurate testing environment to translate into real-world usage.

I have never heard of one failing either. I know damian and several others on here that track there cars on a regular basis have done this and was just looking for some feedback and experience with it. This would also help document here real-world experience along with the engineering data.

I did a full manual conversion my self and so far everything is well. I have no complaints. Its obviously tough when parking but i don't regret ditching the power steering at all.

As far as it failing....I highly dough it. as long as you leave the black seals on each side of the rack to keep debris out of the quill pinion i can`t see where a problem can occur. worst case scenario the welds on the quill can brake but the shaft will still hold it in position.

WOuld it be possible to adapt a manual rack from an old 911 or a manual miata? I imagine the splines and the way the Tie rods attach are significantly different.

Bringin it back! Sorry, but im tired of looking at my looped rack and was wondering if there was anyway to get the pics back up and running?

Sorry to drag this one back but I am in the middle of doing this and found another really good write up with pics to link others too. The pics in this thread were removed so I thought this would help others. Plus it shows how to get that damn bearing off the quill.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847 <--Big thanks to the FC guys!!

Back from the dead!

Doing this conversion right now, and wondering whether the black seals go back in?
I know the seal on the right gets removed, but what about the circled one?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/66462178@N04/7138053461/

No need,just will be more drag

some ideas for a clean conversion
 

I just did this conversion and wanted to share what I did for blocking off the oil lines instead of welding / crimping.

The large bolt is a M16 X 1.5mm thread pitch
The banjo bolt is a M12 X 1.5mm thread pitch

I got these from boltdepot.com. I had to cut them short but wasn't difficult.

The other 4 fittings
are M12 X 1.0mm thread pitch which was difficult to find. I ended up getting some Honda flywheel bolts. The ARP ones were pricey but you may be able to find something cheaper. Because the holes are in close proximity, I had to cut the lengths a little different so the heads wouldn't interfere.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...195521982d.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c705690899.jpg

Regarding the welding of the quill discussion, I wouldn't be at concerned about the heat input from welding weakening the quill.

For one, as earlier indicated, only the surface is hardened and that's for wear. Because the layer of hardened metal is very shallow compared the thickness of the quill, this hardening has no affect on the overall strength of the component.

Secondly, the properties of the weld metal will likely be superior to the steel used to make the quill shaft (unless the quill was drop forged or made of some exotic alloy, which doesn't make sense. Why use an expensive part when you can engineer the part to have sufficient strength with an economical alloy). If you are using SMAW (stick welding) then 60XX or 70XX electrodes should be more than sufficient.

If you truly are worried about heat input then I recommend using GMAW (mig welding) with a thin wire as this is a lower heat input process. L56 type wire has comparable strength to the electrodes mentioned above.

With either of these weld processes, you should get sufficient quench of the weld pool to achieve sufficient shear strength in the resultant weld and heat affected zone.

Granted, the part may no longer wear as well, but the affected area is under the seal bushing anyway and isn't rotating against anything.