*Racing Beat Muffler*
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pakistan
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
*Racing Beat Muffler*
I just installed it on my FD and............ nothing special about it. No noise, no nothing.
Its a little misfire like noise at 7000 rpm, thats it. Otherwise its nothing different than dual tipped stock exhaust.
What should i be doing, since thats one disappointment.
Its a little misfire like noise at 7000 rpm, thats it. Otherwise its nothing different than dual tipped stock exhaust.
What should i be doing, since thats one disappointment.
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well the RB exhaust is one of the few aftermarket exhaust out there that retains the stock look (dual tip) while flowing enough for some performance gain while not waking up the neighbors.
I have it on my FD, and I love it! It has a nice little grumble at idle and sounds pretty good at open throttle. I have a Magnaflow on my FC and its a bit too loud for my taste.
I believe theres a thread about exhausts and there notes...you might want to check if out if your not satisfied with the RB.
I have it on my FD, and I love it! It has a nice little grumble at idle and sounds pretty good at open throttle. I have a Magnaflow on my FC and its a bit too loud for my taste.
I believe theres a thread about exhausts and there notes...you might want to check if out if your not satisfied with the RB.
#4
Racecar - Formula 2000
I just put on a RB dual tip CB, and it was a noticeable improvement over the previous aftermarket CB that I had, and that had been a noticeable improvement over the stock CB.
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: downers grove, illinois
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it sounds like he's talking about the tone of the car, not porformance. RB's are made to stay quiet with a little purr, not like the ricer eardrum blowers. If you want it louder, more aggressive try like a HKS carbon...but if it was my FD i would keep a quiet tone.
#6
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
I bet you still have your pre-cat and cat… The racing beat is for those of us who want to be a quiet as possible and still get the HP gains of an exhaust.
This what you need to do:
Replace your pre-cat with a DP, your cat with a midpipe (not a resonated one) just a straight MP, your Racing beat with an Apexi Ni duals. Get back to us when your ears start bleeding
This what you need to do:
Replace your pre-cat with a DP, your cat with a midpipe (not a resonated one) just a straight MP, your Racing beat with an Apexi Ni duals. Get back to us when your ears start bleeding
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pakistan
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bet you still have your pre-cat and cat… The racing beat is for those of us who want to be a quiet as possible and still get the HP gains of an exhaust.
This what you need to do:
Replace your pre-cat with a DP, your cat with a midpipe (not a resonated one) just a straight MP, your Racing beat with an Apexi Ni duals. Get back to us when your ears start bleeding
This what you need to do:
Replace your pre-cat with a DP, your cat with a midpipe (not a resonated one) just a straight MP, your Racing beat with an Apexi Ni duals. Get back to us when your ears start bleeding
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
#9
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (6)
what if i dont remove pre cat, and just remove the cat converter in the middle and replace it with a straight pipe to achieve a mid range tone at 5000~7000rpm range?
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
#10
Racecar - Formula 2000
what if i dont remove pre cat, and just remove the cat converter in the middle and replace it with a straight pipe to achieve a mid range tone at 5000~7000rpm range?
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
So, IMO, try just replacing the precat with a DP. You might like it, and if you don't you can get one of the louder CB's.
#11
Corea FD
iTrader: (8)
need to have ebc before you remove the precat for a D/p. certain to have boost spike and then the worst case possible... blown rotary.
just be patient with the build. RB is one of the best units for a stock look(good for 400hp). the noise will increase as your build gets deeper and deeper later down the line.
just be patient with the build. RB is one of the best units for a stock look(good for 400hp). the noise will increase as your build gets deeper and deeper later down the line.
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pakistan
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you are scaring me, my motor is too smooth for a rotary.
rocket is confusing me, though your suggestions are saying something else.
I just need a mid range tone after only 5000 rpm range till the end. too loud is too rice. hate that!
i once started my car after the stock muffler was removed. And i only heard the noise an american V8 might make at idle. I WOT it and nothing loud came to my ears either.
i just want a decent mid range sound (partially muffled) sound even at high rpm range.
i wont mind silent exhaust till 5000rpm.
The precat is prone to failure. And when it goes, it often clogs the main cat. What I would do is replace the precat with a DP, and leave the main cat in place. IMO, that gives a very nice exhaust tone. And, if you don't think that is loud enough, you can then use a Mid-Pipe (MP) in place of the main cat. However, this (MP) will very likely cause boost creep, and require porting the wastegate, etc., to prevent blowing the engine. Search for "creep".
So, IMO, try just replacing the precat with a DP. You might like it, and if you don't you can get one of the louder CB's.
So, IMO, try just replacing the precat with a DP. You might like it, and if you don't you can get one of the louder CB's.
I just need a mid range tone after only 5000 rpm range till the end. too loud is too rice. hate that!
i once started my car after the stock muffler was removed. And i only heard the noise an american V8 might make at idle. I WOT it and nothing loud came to my ears either.
need to have ebc before you remove the precat for a D/p. certain to have boost spike and then the worst case possible... blown rotary.
just be patient with the build. RB is one of the best units for a stock look(good for 400hp). the noise will increase as your build gets deeper and deeper later down the line.
just be patient with the build. RB is one of the best units for a stock look(good for 400hp). the noise will increase as your build gets deeper and deeper later down the line.
i wont mind silent exhaust till 5000rpm.
#14
Brappable.
iTrader: (6)
need to have ebc before you remove the precat for a D/p. certain to have boost spike and then the worst case possible... blown rotary.
just be patient with the build. RB is one of the best units for a stock look(good for 400hp). the noise will increase as your build gets deeper and deeper later down the line.
just be patient with the build. RB is one of the best units for a stock look(good for 400hp). the noise will increase as your build gets deeper and deeper later down the line.
randy
#15
the first mods I did was downpipe (reliability mod) and RB cat-back (everything else stock). I autocross the car and did not blow the motor, I can't speak of any boost spikes, because the boost gauge came much later so I don't know. It was a bit louder than stock, but it is louder outside the car than in. Let someone you trust drive it down the street and listen as they drive by, it may be louder than you think.
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pakistan
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i think im good with what i've got for now. I should learn to be satisfied.
i know boost creep will bust my almost perfect engine at once, and i will hate my muffler later.
60k on this motor, never rebuilt and after it warms up to normal temp its sound puts a lexus motor to shame.
i know boost creep will bust my almost perfect engine at once, and i will hate my muffler later.
60k on this motor, never rebuilt and after it warms up to normal temp its sound puts a lexus motor to shame.
#18
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
what if i dont remove pre cat, and just remove the cat converter in the middle and replace it with a straight pipe to achieve a mid range tone at 5000~7000rpm range?
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
Second, the RB dual is supposed to be a quiet but more refined sound compared to stock. It sounds like it's not what you wanted. Changing to another cat-back will make a pretty big difference.
If you want to keep the RB dual and do something with the main cat, I would install a high flow cat instead of a straight pipe. I simply don't like obscenely loud and smelly cars. Going to a high flow cat will definitely open up the sound a couple notches.
As long as you have a stock component in your exhaust (the downpipe) I really doubt you'll get boost creep. But I would install an adjustable boost controller just to be sure. You'll probably want it later and now is the best time to benefit from it.
Dave
#19
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
what if i dont remove pre cat, and just remove the cat converter in the middle and replace it with a straight pipe to achieve a mid range tone at 5000~7000rpm range?
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
would it make my turbos to spike boost, cause thats not something any FD owner would want to happen to his car?
My car is bone stock, remember tht please.
I was answering your question about an audible exhaust not about how to mod your car. No offense but at this point all of this should be common knowledge. Given all of the available info on this forum *ahem* sticky on top of the 3rd gen section.
1)Get a boost gauge, make sure it’s an accurate one. Not some cheapo one that may read inaccurate readings.
2)Monitor your boost. Do a third gear pull WOT starting at 2500 RPMS. At 2900 your should hit instant 10 psi of boost at 2900, get a transition dip down to 8 psi at 4300, then at around 6900 it should drop off back to 8psi. therefore 10-8-10-8
3)Replace precat (if you actually have one). Make sure you aren’t spiking. If you are (which most likely you will be unless your cat is toast) get a boost controller. Your boost levels at this point should be 10-8-10.
4)Before adding the midpipe you should get your wastegate ported so you don’t experience creep. BTW boost controllers can’t do a damn think about creep, porting the wastegate is your only choice. And yes you should have a boost controller at this point.
5)Add the midpipe. As long as you don’t boost above 10 psi. Your engine will be fine. It’s all about how you’re A/F ratio control that and you have nothing to worry about. Very important 10 psi not 10.5. 10 psi max no spike no creep. I ran around for a long time keeping my boost at 10 psi with all the boltons and a stock ECU without any problems.
#20
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pakistan
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First, I believe you have an RHD car. No RHD FDs had any kind of catalytic element in the downpipe. The RHD downpipes are more restrictive than aftermarket but shouldn't affect sound a whole lot.
Second, the RB dual is supposed to be a quiet but more refined sound compared to stock. It sounds like it's not what you wanted. Changing to another cat-back will make a pretty big difference.
If you want to keep the RB dual and do something with the main cat, I would install a high flow cat instead of a straight pipe. I simply don't like obscenely loud and smelly cars. Going to a high flow cat will definitely open up the sound a couple notches.
As long as you have a stock component in your exhaust (the downpipe) I really doubt you'll get boost creep. But I would install an adjustable boost controller just to be sure. You'll probably want it later and now is the best time to benefit from it.
Dave
Second, the RB dual is supposed to be a quiet but more refined sound compared to stock. It sounds like it's not what you wanted. Changing to another cat-back will make a pretty big difference.
If you want to keep the RB dual and do something with the main cat, I would install a high flow cat instead of a straight pipe. I simply don't like obscenely loud and smelly cars. Going to a high flow cat will definitely open up the sound a couple notches.
As long as you have a stock component in your exhaust (the downpipe) I really doubt you'll get boost creep. But I would install an adjustable boost controller just to be sure. You'll probably want it later and now is the best time to benefit from it.
Dave
i have already spent Euro 26,000 for my GTR33 parts (some installed and some in pipeline from Japan) and now again i have to order a CB for my FD. jeeezzz!!! means theres never a simple solution when it comes to rotary business.
Everything is stock on my car, and i only added a Greddy boost guage and now this RB single tip muffler.
A boost controller also?
#21
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pakistan
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was answering your question about an audible exhaust not about how to mod your car. No offense but at this point all of this should be common knowledge. Given all of the available info on this forum *ahem* sticky on top of the 3rd gen section.
1)Get a boost gauge, make sure it’s an accurate one. Not some cheapo one that may read inaccurate readings.
2)Monitor your boost. Do a third gear pull WOT starting at 2500 RPMS. At 2900 your should hit instant 10 psi of boost at 2900, get a transition dip down to 8 psi at 4300, then at around 6900 it should drop off back to 8psi. therefore 10-8-10-8
3)Replace precat (if you actually have one). Make sure you aren’t spiking. If you are (which most likely you will be unless your cat is toast) get a boost controller. Your boost levels at this point should be 10-8-10.
4)Before adding the midpipe you should get your wastegate ported so you don’t experience creep. BTW boost controllers can’t do a damn think about creep, porting the wastegate is your only choice. And yes you should have a boost controller at this point.
5)Add the midpipe. As long as you don’t boost above 10 psi. Your engine will be fine. It’s all about how you’re A/F ratio control that and you have nothing to worry about. Very important 10 psi not 10.5. 10 psi max no spike no creep. I ran around for a long time keeping my boost at 10 psi with all the boltons and a stock ECU without any problems.
1)Get a boost gauge, make sure it’s an accurate one. Not some cheapo one that may read inaccurate readings.
2)Monitor your boost. Do a third gear pull WOT starting at 2500 RPMS. At 2900 your should hit instant 10 psi of boost at 2900, get a transition dip down to 8 psi at 4300, then at around 6900 it should drop off back to 8psi. therefore 10-8-10-8
3)Replace precat (if you actually have one). Make sure you aren’t spiking. If you are (which most likely you will be unless your cat is toast) get a boost controller. Your boost levels at this point should be 10-8-10.
4)Before adding the midpipe you should get your wastegate ported so you don’t experience creep. BTW boost controllers can’t do a damn think about creep, porting the wastegate is your only choice. And yes you should have a boost controller at this point.
5)Add the midpipe. As long as you don’t boost above 10 psi. Your engine will be fine. It’s all about how you’re A/F ratio control that and you have nothing to worry about. Very important 10 psi not 10.5. 10 psi max no spike no creep. I ran around for a long time keeping my boost at 10 psi with all the boltons and a stock ECU without any problems.
and thats one great procedure you mentioned here, not to mention my car is Auto, lol. anyway i can still press hold button.
i will work on it as you told step by step and we'll see what happens.
I have worked on almost all other cars, but rotary is one type that always makes me come to this website and ask the slightest problem i might have. May be thats because they are too sensitive and are dramaqueens of mechanical engineering.
#22
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
no problem. I really need to proof read before I hit send
there fixed
1)Get a boost gauge, make sure it’s an accurate one. Not some cheapo one that may read inaccurate readings.
2)Monitor your boost. Do a third gear pull WOT starting at 2500 RPMS. At 2900 your should hit instant 10 psi of boost at 2900, at 4300 you get a transition dip down to 8 psi and almost instantly back to 10, then at around 6900 it should drop off back to 8psi. therefore 10-8-10-8 and that's only if you have a precat otherwise you should be 10-8-10.
3)Replace precat (if you actually have one). Make sure you aren’t spiking. If you are (which most likely you will be unless your cat is toast) get a boost controller. Your boost levels at this point should be 10-8-10.
4)Before adding the midpipe you should get your wastegate ported so you don’t experience creep. BTW boost controllers can’t do a damn thing about creep, so porting the wastegate is your only choice. And yes you should have a boost controller at this point.
5)Add the midpipe. As long as you don’t boost above 10 psi. Your engine will be fine. Keeping a rotary happy is all about A/F ratio. Since you have a stock ECU you can't control fuel but you can control the air (boost). Keep it at stock levels to maintain a safe A/F ratio. Very important 10 psi not 10.5. 10 psi max no spike no creep. I ran around for a long time keeping my boost at 10 psi with all the boltons and a stock ECU without any problems.
2)Monitor your boost. Do a third gear pull WOT starting at 2500 RPMS. At 2900 your should hit instant 10 psi of boost at 2900, at 4300 you get a transition dip down to 8 psi and almost instantly back to 10, then at around 6900 it should drop off back to 8psi. therefore 10-8-10-8 and that's only if you have a precat otherwise you should be 10-8-10.
3)Replace precat (if you actually have one). Make sure you aren’t spiking. If you are (which most likely you will be unless your cat is toast) get a boost controller. Your boost levels at this point should be 10-8-10.
4)Before adding the midpipe you should get your wastegate ported so you don’t experience creep. BTW boost controllers can’t do a damn thing about creep, so porting the wastegate is your only choice. And yes you should have a boost controller at this point.
5)Add the midpipe. As long as you don’t boost above 10 psi. Your engine will be fine. Keeping a rotary happy is all about A/F ratio. Since you have a stock ECU you can't control fuel but you can control the air (boost). Keep it at stock levels to maintain a safe A/F ratio. Very important 10 psi not 10.5. 10 psi max no spike no creep. I ran around for a long time keeping my boost at 10 psi with all the boltons and a stock ECU without any problems.
#23
Constant threat
On U.S. cars at least, the Racing Beat dual tip gives a nice little performance gain AND adds a more throaty, deeper tone. In fact, it flat SNARLS at 5,000 - 8,000 rpm.
It is one of the more "perfect" exhausts, quite frankly.
To the O.P., I hope you get your issues resolved. This is the great thing about this Forum, there are a lot of knowledgeable people here.
Good luck!
It is one of the more "perfect" exhausts, quite frankly.
To the O.P., I hope you get your issues resolved. This is the great thing about this Forum, there are a lot of knowledgeable people here.
Good luck!
#24
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
There is nothing wrong with your catback. Just because it isn't loud, doesn't mean that it isn't flowing a lot better than stock. A louder muffler won't be any faster.
Keep it, and enjoy it. Your neighbors will thank you. Your passengers will thank you too, and you will be able to hear them say it
Keep it, and enjoy it. Your neighbors will thank you. Your passengers will thank you too, and you will be able to hear them say it
#25
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pakistan
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
guys! im happy with my FD's stock horsepower and i only wanted to make it sound a little (not loud) better, thats it.
I think FD at least deserves better sound matching its charisma and character than a Honda Civic
I think FD at least deserves better sound matching its charisma and character than a Honda Civic