Exedy Twin Plate Clutch?
 

I am about to buy the exedy twin plate due to having a dyno tuning session with Steve Kan and having my single plate slipping at about 430 wheel horsepower. I was only on WG pressure and it was slipping starting at about 4k. very annoying. So i am going to go all out and buy the Exedy twin plate. i was just looking for some reviews and what do i do about the counterweight? Do i need a new one? and which one if i do?
Charlie

I have one for sale thats new other than a few scratches on the pressure plate from shipping let me know if you are interested.

Do you have an aftermarket flywheel on your car now? If so, no. You may use the same counterweight. If you have the factory flywheel you will need to pick up a counterweight for the auto transmission. You should be pretty happy with the clutch. I have had mine going on two years and I have no complaints.

good to hear! yes i have an Exedy single plate... cant remember which one. it was on the car when i bought it. i checked it out when i did my rebuild and it had about 50% life left. thought it would be good enough, not even close. but it has an aftermarket counterweight (ACT i think) and light flywheel. So that one should work fine?

Yes, if you have an auto CW on your car currently for a different aftermarket flywheel it will work fine.

The only complaint that I have with the twin disc is the slight rattling when the clutch is disengaged (pedal down). Engagement is awesome, I get no slipping at all on my 20B.

We have them in stock http://banzai-racing.com/store/93+_r...dy_clutch.html

Exedy cerametallic double disc...

absolutely wonderful piece. at 2200 pound spring rate a friendly clutch pedal. bite the bullet and you take any clutch worries out of the picture.

howard

awsome clutch bit pricey and a little to get use to but you wont regret it. if im not mistaken doesnt the twin disc come with a flywheel im not too sure anymore its been awhile

Yes it comes with a flywheel

http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/Eng...0B_lg_blk3.jpg

Good to know if I keep my setup. I have the twin but never noticed the rattle. I suppose if I tried to hear it at idle with the windows down, I could. Maybe it's the lever that rattles? I was worried about that before I bought it as well as pedal pressure. As long as your not in stop and go traffic, you won't notice that either.

alright sounds good. sounds like that is my choice then. I plan on buying one today.

Excellent clutch, Good choice. You will love it. Might pay to change your fork whilst your in there. :icon_tup:

Rix.

I think the rattle issue might be with the shifter, if I recall correctly (sorry it's been a while). I beleive the B&M knockoff rattled but after I switched to the RE-A (with the brass cup over the bottom ball) then nothing noticable.

Nope, it is the clutch discs when the pressure plate is disengaged. It is normal, it is the twin ceramic clutches and the center plate. It have nothing to do with the shifter or the clutch fork, which are both brand new and neither are knock-off.

Exedy info


Engine modifications, e.g. Cam-timing-turbo modifications etc., can cause engine pulsation and vibrations. On some applications, when the clutch pedal is depressed, these vibrations can cause clutch rattle by movement of the intermediate separator plate. These noises will in no way affect the performance of the EXEDY Multi - Plate Clutch. This rattle is well accepted in the performance industry, where engine modifications have been carried out.

rattle is the midplate and it is nothing. i ran the clutch for four years and hardly ever noticed it.

if you put the trans in neutral at a stoplight and get your foot off the pedal as you should there are no rattles.

hc

Wonderful clutch, I'm glad I listened to Howards' advice and decided on the twin cerametallic :)

Picked it up from a friend lightly used for $750 (can't beat that) and haven't looked back since..... it's a good feeling to not have to worry about the clutch slipping as I turn up the boost.

Here is the deal, the clutch rattles when disengaged. Don't let anyone tell you any different. To start your car you need to depress the pedal, do not be alarmed if you hear what sounds like loose parts. I do not care what you do at a stop light. This does not detract at all from the performance or quality of the clutch. As an honest business man, it is my responsibility to inform you that you WILL have a rattling noise with this clutch set up. To "some" people this may be overly annoying, since there are some that find the slightest vibration from motor mounts too much.

I personally do not make any parts buying decisions based off any forum members "advice". That being said, this clutch is superb for high HP/torque applications, the ACT single discs just can not keep up.

^^I'm not sure I understand who this is directed at, or really the point of the post to be honest. I don't sell these clutches, if anyone is looking for one brand new the friendly people at Banzai Racing will be more than happy to help you out :icon_tup:

If an owner with an FD at the appropriate power levels where this clutch is necessary complains about the rattling of the clutch, I think it's time to sell the car and get into something a bit more comfortable and refined.

I have heard both exedy twin disk & HKS twin disk clutches

both rattle, but the HKS unit rattles SO MUCH MORE...

as performance goes, they both opperate as expected: AWESOME

My personal experience with the Exedy twin plate: it's very user-friendly, and can be used for daily driver duties if need be, to include sitting in NJ/NYC Lincoln Tunnel traffic.

Pedal pressure is less than an ACT extreme, and more than a Spec clutch. Nice middle ground in my opinion. It also has a fairly progressive 'grab' to it, not as sudden as a Spec 6 puck sprung but it does require more attention than one of the ACT units with the organic disk.

Hope this helps :)

i just came back onto this thread to make sure the rattle was normal... glad to hear it is. one thing I noticed though is it made the b&m short shifter significantly harder to put into gear. You really have to push to get it in gear, especially first. this shifter has always needed a little more effort, but quite a bit now. other than that it is way more drivable than i expected. Also mine seems like it starts to engage right off the floor, but then actually grabs about 1.5 inches up... just making sure all this is normal. the rattle was the thing that had me the most worried... haha glad thats normal.

Yes, the B&M and replica's take some effort and getting used to. You have to sorta hear and feel it click in to gear. It is not smooth and people describe it as notchy. Also, it is weighted differently. My RE-A is similar to a shortened OEM. Also the bottom ball has a brass rotating cub over it. I actually put the metal Mazdatrix one I took off my OEM shifter on my B&M replica, which seemed to help. I remeber I noticed the rattle alot more with the B&M. I think it picked up the vibration and since it was light it rattled as well. Look at it at a stop and see if the shifter handle vibrates. The OEM plastic cup should snap on the bottom of the B&M. I had to shave the ball down to get the metal one on mine. If the rattle bothers you then my adice is start with a very heavy shifter handle before you replace the shifter. Check the for sale threads. I thought I saw one last week. There was also a deal on a RE-A shifter to. Holding the clutch in at stop lights will get to you after a while.

Actually my Gotham short shifter used to rattle, so I disassembled it, stretched the springs and put it back together. The rattling shifter was out, and the rattle-free and tighter shifter was in in 20 minutes.


Banzai or GoodfellaFD3S,

Comparing the Exedy twin plate against my Exedy Stage I organic single and ACT prolite flywheel: Which setup has less rotational inertia? I originally assumed the Exedy clutch kits were supposed to be low inertia, but it looks like the included flywheel is made of steel. I'm at the holding capacity limit with my current setup, which is why I'm inquiring.

I appreciate any input from knowledge or experience ;)

You can adjust the pedal to engage whereever you want it, the adjuster is on the pedal. I got rid of the B&M years ago, pick up a shifter from Mazdatrix/rx7.com/Pettit (they all carry the same one), much better quality.

Josh- The twin disc comes with a Chromoly flywheel, one of the differences is that the discs are 200mm in dia. instead of 240mm, this centralizes the weight. Regarless there are still two ceramic discs and two pressure pltes, this is will weigh more than the Prolite and stage 1. If you are beyond your clutch's holding power it really does not matter if you add a pound or 2 to the clutch. You could probably get away with just upgrading to an ACT Extreme.

The twin disc weighs less than the stock clutch/flywheel combo.

I have an Exedy twin plate clutch too. For me when I INITIALLY had it installed, it was a very faint rattle. Only heard it when in slightly letting off in reverse (backing up, etc) or in 1st with AC on. I'm used to it now and don't even notice it anymore.