Evaluating condition of stock motor mounts
 

How can I tell whether the stock motor mounts are worn out with a visual inspection?

On mine the rubber appears to be splitting a bot on either side but I don’t know if that is significant or just cosmetic. Are these fluid-filled? I don’t see anything leaking.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d7c936856.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d9f71a971.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...83963c3f2.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bd306e8bc.jpeg

Look a bit wet in the second pic? Only example I've encountered tore in the cone section and spilled the silcone that way, last pic appears to show a split starting in that region.....27 year old mounts probably aren't long for this world, unless use as a garage ornament.

Both the oil pan and the rear turbo were leaking as well, so they’re oily. I’m not sure how old they are but someone swapped the alum arm for steel at some point.

Many times they are in 2 pieces, so you got that going for you :).

They are liquid filled with a gel-like goo. If they are split it's possible the goo has leaked out. That will make them more harsh but they still aren't super bad.

If you are in there it's probably worth going ahead and replacing if it's in the budget and makes sense budget-wise - I wouldn't skimp on something the engine/car REALLY needs. You can also do motor mounts down the road, they aren't super hard to do with the engine installed. On a budget you can re-use these with no huge problem to do so.

Dale

It’s a tough call because they’re $6-700 for a new OE set and that just seems crazy on top of a couple thousand $ pile of other “while you’re in there” extras I’ve already incurred in this project, BUT I’m old and controlling NVH is important to me.

Are worn stock mounts going to be better than a poly kit? And if I care about NVH would I regret doing a poly kit?

Personally I would try to make a decision on reusing or replacing the mounts before resealing the pan. Doing it afterward means removing the bolts that go thru the pan and a risk to the pan seal.

Good chance you’re not as old as me and I like OEM smooth too. Another “personally” but I think if I didn’t have my Noltecs I’d go with FFE’s. Should be pretty good on NVH if you choose the soft option, control movement better, last forever and cost less than OEM.
https://fullfunctioneng.com/product/...mounts-copy-2/

The LHS seems to be 3rd qtr 95, can't make out the exhaust side, but if it was an alloy arm car and that side's original, 91/92/93 were when Mazda was doing that.

Genuine item is pricey, you could do the FC mazdaspeed swap cheaper if concerned about vibes. Not sure if available over there, one of the retailers here sells them for $Au450, probably not far off doubling the price to $US350 a pair when landed with current airfreight BS, etc.https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp...on/b1051002612

it is not hard to get the mounts here, but then you need to find someone to cut the top off.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fb7929cf8d.jpg

Good (no splits) OEM mounts for steel arms.
$215 shipped for pair
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8ada46a326.jpg

Can you expand on this? Are there visible date stampings on these? I just looked at them again and couldn’t make out a date code.

For tracing/QC the circular rings are the year stamps, divided into quarters and the mold is punched each month....sometimes doesn't transfer into the completed part. Seems to be 10 months of 95 completed - can't make out 96 too well with the oil stain though. All the plastic bits on the car are done the same way.