Engine Help
 

So I started my car up today as normal, It started up and I was letting it warm up and I noticed the cars temps werent going up, then out of the blue the engine shut off, and I could get it to start back up, is my engine done, compression numbers were check last week 65 in the back and 100 in the front

65 is low compression. it might be time for a rebuild.

They usually go when their cold, or under boost.....

Recheck compression.

The compression was terribly uneven and the 65 indicates that there was a problem on the rear. Honestly, the engine was running on borrowed time as it was

Thanks guys for the help, just need to find a good rebuild at my budget

Also on one note 125k miles, that decent for stock engine to last that long?

If you are absolutely positive it was the factory engine, it is damn near a miracle it lasted as long as it did. Generally speaking of course.

I hope your budget is fairly high..... with that kind of mileage, the best thing you can do is buy a brand new engine. Ray at Malloy has them in stock, I was just there and saw one waiting to be shipped out. Call him at 888 533 3400, they're around $4200 IIRC.

I can't be positive, that it is in fact it is the factory engine, with that said , I'm actually only 19 years of age and go to Cal State Fullerton , rebuilding this engine would be very easy to me ,because my dad was a rotary man before he passed away as a LA County sheriff so he did teach me well I just don't have a cherry picker nor the time since I go to school all day and work in the jails at night, but another engine sounds like an option

I have one ready to ship with a warranty :)

Sucks for your luck though. 65 psi and with it being that uneven it was on borrowed time.

+1 in DJSeven. Very honest guy to do business with. I'm exceptionally pleased with the engine in my car and it wasn't one of his high end builds.

My mechanic told me it was just a broken apex seal should I still buy a new motor?

with that high of mileage on the original engine you may end up needing to spend more on parts than just buying a rebuilt/new engine

You will never know until you tear into the engine. But like everyone was saying, if you need more than just seals, parts will add up, especially if new rotors/housings are needed.

Like others have said it will cost you more to piece one together than to buy a reman with that level of mileage on it.

Most likely the only thing reusable in your engine right now is your eshaft, one (maybe two) rotors, and your irons. Even the irons probably have a lot of wear and could be damaged from the apex seal.

Usually when an apex seal goes it takes out the rotor housing, and could possibly damage the rotor, 2 irons, and your turbo(s).

That's why it's always good to rebuild an engine when the compression gets in the 80's. At that point you still have usable parts.

I haven't drove it since the apex seal went bad, my engine was running 99-98 compression day before sevenstock then a week after it didn't want to start so I didn't even mess with it that's when I towed it to get the compression check I'm confident that the engine isn't original seeing that it's all black and silver

There is no such thing as "just a broken apex seal". When seals break they typically cause damage to the rotor and corresponding damage to the housing. Additionally the seal debris exiting the engine causes damage to the turbine wheel(s) on the turbo(s).

Here is an engine that we tore down that just had chipped seals, it still ran, just poorly. This is considered minor damage in comparison to engines that throw all the seals.

Even with this much damage and replacement parts needed our standard $1500 rebuild + a rotor and housing would not come anywhere near the $4200 for a Mazda reman.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/nelson/...apex_seals.jpg

http://www.banzai-racing.com/nelson/...using_dmg1.jpg

http://www.banzai-racing.com/nelson/...tor_damage.jpg

http://www.banzai-racing.com/nelson/...urbos_dmg3.jpg

it always sucks to see the carnage, best of luck OP, if you can get the motor out and torn down you'll know better what you're dealing with, I'm tearing mine down in a week and a half

Thanks banzai, that actually makes sense because my turbos were making a strange noise, I bought some rebuilt turbos so I'm good there, also when an apex seal goes it breaks then shoots out the exhaust ?

yes, that's how your turbo's get fubar'd

Good luck man. :) There's already been some great advice given. :icon_tup: Most people in this thread probably speak from direct experience of breaking an apex seal (or seals), but I've been there as well. :( When mine broke, I split 2 seals out of the rear housing. It took out the housing, rotor, and my secondary turbo (was still runnin twins at the time, thank God).

You're just going to have to tear it down to see the carnage, or go with a new motor...Either way, best of luck!

Do you guys think that throwing bnrs on a HBP motor would be bad?
I only say this because I know someone selling a rebuilt one for cheap,
That I could pick up within the next couple days

Depends on the size of the HBP, but prepare for idle and low end drivability issues. If you dont care about noise or drivability then a large HBP isnt bad. Overkill for sticking with the BNRs though.

Well I just wanted to stick with twins and have at least 350 hp

I made 420 rwhp on BNRs with a streetported engine back in like 2006...... this was on 17 psi with 5 gallons of c16 in the tank as insurance. I made almost 400 on 15 psi and pump gas IIRC. Search under my username, the thread is out there.