Im not telling anyone how to break in there motor. But zinx and i were tunned at the same time and i didnt have time to break in the motor so it was heat cycled about 5 times in the parking lot and on to the dyno with all new internals. Then i went to the track with about 600 miles, and on 20 lbs went 10.87 the third run of the day. And with 2000.00 miles at the end of the season i went 10.90 on the third run with not the best 60 ft time. But as was stated it was clearnced and balanced. I think its more how its built than the length of the break in.:)

thanks for the input fellas. the only thing new on my motor is the rotor housings. Do you think Ill be alright with little break-in time?

heck im going to be driving mine around here soon and keeping revs around 4K for 400-500 miles then change the oil and then granny drive it for another 400-500 then take it for a tune! :-) rich helped me with that!

Reguardles of how you break it in i would change oil and filter soon after start up and again at about 500 miles, oils cheap.:)

also, if you can, cut the filter open and look through it for copper.

while we're on the debate of break-in.....
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've always followed this method during my bike and piston car days with good success and I have yet to find a reason why it wouldn't be applicable to Rotaries. I've always been intrigued as to why so many reputable builders were so adament about long break-ins.

I don't believe the gears or bearings need "break in", but what about the apex seal springs? Do they change pressure/sensitivity/position over time or are they good to go right away?