electrical issues
 

Hi im currently rebuilding the car from ground up, ive done the battery relocation to the trunk. ive fitted through out the car ATO smart fuses that light up when they blow.

I put the battery on tonight to test sound system lights etc and nothing works only non of the fuses have blown no power to sound system or electric windows/doors or dash lights etc

Only thing that seems to work are the lights front/rear, interior fans, turbo timer alarm arms but does not lock doors cant figure out what it could be? could it be the main engine fuse 120 amp, or a relay, bad earth as ive relocated it?

please help electrics really spoil my rx7 fun

any ideas, im stuck

check your grounds... test you main fuse to see if it is good

yup dont think its the earths ive ordered some more fuses hopefully that will be it, just find it strange that the lights work but nothin else


ill let you know cheers

Damm ive still got the same problem ive tested all the circuits and earths with tester, tested main fuse all ok no other fuses have blown.

still no action from sound system, or electric windows or extra gauge lights, or race logic controller.

but fans and all lights work apart from the indercators dont work but if you use the hazzard button on the dash they work? WTF is going on? could it be the streering wheel column? but the turbo timer taps into the wheel column and that works? stressed lol

any ideas from anyone?

Find something that does not work and then track back to the battery using the diagnostic tests in the Body Electrical manual in the stickies.

O i cleaned up the fuse box too and can touch ground pritty much every where?

headlights work without the key in the IGN
door ding & key ding works

ignition switch? going to have to leave it to tomorrow but please update me with ideas and i will test when i get in

thanks

I'm going to repeat this again.

Randomly poking around will get you nowhere. Pick something that does not have current and trace the problem back to the source using the step by step procedure for that circuit outlined it the above manual.

Expecting someone to remotely diagnose your electrical problems is not realistic.

Tested all main cables and earths and fuses all fine getting a signal on the tester also getting full power to starter, but not cranking over
still no power to sound system, extra gauges, launch control and both electric windows. Fans, interior light, external lights, keyhole light WORK when key is inserted the beeping starts.

Question 1
Is the battery powerful enough it is fully charged btw? see pic

Question 2
Main earth im getting signal off it what do you think on the main earth position? good / bad? see pic

Question 3
The main fuses & boxes, ive taken apart both fuse boxes all test ok and fuses work (ive asked some more question on the pic's of the fuses boxes)


anyway ive tested the outside all seems ok, now starting under the steering column - see pics???? wtf are all these extra fuses taped into to
one of the cables for any one else have these??? see pics big can of worms i just opened lol


anyway ill start testing the cables, tonite and the ignition switch

more pics

Why are you using a 6V battery in your car?

um did you even look at the battry you replaced????? this s a 12v car not 6v thats your first problem!

z

Also the dash harness connector is not seated fully.

Dan

there no engine in the car atm, i just wanted to make sure i was getting power through everything (no circuit brakes) not actually use it permanently. Why do certain parts of the car need 12 V to actually work.

SPEC ON BATTERY
Red Top 6V-2,1L
Optima RedTop 6V2,1L starter battery with SAE top terminals. Designed for use in heavy equipment installations and old vintage cars requiring a high power 6 Volt batter.

Two 6 Volt batteries are often used for weight distribution purposes in racing and high performance cars since OPTIMA can be installed on its side permanently.

Length: 254 mm
Width: 84 mm
Height: 195mm
Minimum weight (kg): 8,4 kg
Nominal Voltage: 6 V
Cranking Amps (SAE): 980 CA
Cold Cranking Amps (SAE): 800 CCA
Cold Cranking Amps (EN): 815 CCA
Reserve Capacity: 104 minutes
Capacity (C/20 rate): 50 Ah
Internal Resistance: 3,0 mOhm

http://www.optimabattery.co.uk/engli...top_optima.htm

the clips broke what the harness clips into but they are connected, im not surprised the clip broke from the amount of shit thats tapped into it, any idea what the extra fuses are for? ive got nothin special plugged into the car that i would need all these. anyway anyone got a pic of under there steering column?

ill be home soon anyway any start looking into further, thanks guys

?
 

I would check your fuse box wiring and make sure all the clips are actualy pluged into the bottom.. The smaller fuse box has a little blue clip close to the drivers headlight, that is where i would start it controles power windows , sunroof , and ignition system and a few other things.... that would be where i would start checking ...... Good luck!

Sweet Jesus, dude, put a frakken 12V battery into you car and stop screwing around.

Get a 12v battery and push the big blue connector in the top left of your picture together until it is seated fully. Tape it if you can't get it to stay together :)

Dan

cheers mate thanks for pointing that out didnt even notice that on my own pic, ive put a 12V on too its lookin good - fink all the main things Might be fixed now, fingers crossed

just gotta run some more tests, as im still geting no power to the greddy water temp sensor but ill be able to sort that easily hopefully

also im getting an alarm on the stinger digital power dis, everything should be workin tommorrow :icon_tup::icon_tup::icon_tup::icon_tup::icon_tup:

cant wait :) cheers again lads esp Chadwick :icon_tup:

<------ Captain Obvious :D