When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So here's a little background on how I got this FD.
I owned an FC about 10 years ago which I regretted selling since the day I did. With the urge to get back into the rotary world, I wanted an FD this time around. My intentions were to buy a solid running FD that required little to no work with minimal to no mods. Well finding want I wanted was hard so I ended up purchasing THIS FD. Before purchasing the vehicle, I took it to DNA Garage to get a pre purchase inspection. Report came in and it turned out that the engine was going bad (low-ish compression) and needed more work than I intended for initially. The guys at DNA said the car should run with some repairs (replace SS fuel line that was leaking, a Y connector that splits 2 - 6 to a - 8 SS fuel line, coolant hosing, bigger oil cooler, exhaust leak in turbo manifold, oil pan leaking, leaking power steering, intercooler cupplers) which I can do most of. So after some negotiating from the original price, I purchased the FD.
Now to my point. I'm usually pretty good at reading tutorials/guides from stock to a desired upgrade and learning as I go progress. And with my knowledge of an FC, I felt pretty good about working on the FD. Well it turns out that I'm kind of hit a wall on my knowledge and I don't really know where to proceed with "fixing" the FD. Maybe I forgot a lot of what I knew but it's harder for me to understand and diagnose working on this FD since it's far from OEM. I'm hoping I can keep this thread going by posting up pictures and maybe having fellow FD owners understand what going on under the hood. I feel confident in working on this FD but I just need some help and guidance with understanding the OEM parts and upgraded parts and on how to proceed to getting this neglected FD back to good solid health. If anyone is willing to help me out along the way, I'd definitely appreciate it
The FDs currently having some problems:
- Starting/ problems (which I will follow a guide I found removing and replacing spark plugs and EGI fuse and putting some ATF in the holes.)
- switches from slow crank to normal crank randomly (new Optima battery)
- has random fittings open with no hoses or caps
- the two SS - 6 fuel lines from the upgraded dual fuel pump assembly goes to a Y splitter which I was told to get rid of the Y splitter but I don't exactly know what to change it to
-clutch feels absolutely horrible
-leaking oil pan
-leaking power steering
- diff to drive shaft leak
-missing 1 engine to tranny bolt
-egt probe not in exhaust
-oil pressure gauge low
I'd like to know what this is. It's a green plastic hose that's connected to the oil filler neck to a black box. And here are a few pics of things I'd like to get more info on.
Last edited by Ace Callaway; 03-16-20 at 01:57 AM.
The hose coming off the oil filler neck is just an oil vapor return for emissions.
The pic of the downpipe next to the O2 sensor is not something I recognize but it must be an aftermarket thing.
The pink circle is the coolant line that goes to the throttle body for the automatic warm-up system (AWS) that heats a wax coupler for the idle. If you live in a warm area it is not needed.
The cable next to the alternator looks like an aftermarket water temp sensor.
I don't recognize the last pic.
FWIW...The other end of the unused nipple on the throttle body is at the top of the rear iron. You’ll probably have a rubber cap there similar to the cap on the nipple at the back of the t-stat housing...just below where that temp sensor is located. Personally I’d change both to a section of reinforced hose and a bolt-plug and clamp. I’ve seen bad things happen with those rubber caps.
Isn't this car built by Elite? Build quality is questionable from the few pictures you posted.
To get rid of the Y splitter, you need to run the dual -6AN line all the way to the bay, each feed one rail. The last picture looks like an oil catch can, which is not supposed to sit like that.
- Starting/ problems (which I will follow a guide I found removing and replacing spark plugs and EGI fuse and putting some ATF in the holes.) --- this could be any number of things. with the questionable quality of everything, it could be as simple as needing to adjust the tune or could be related to the low compression. does it make a difference if its cold or hot?
- switches from slow crank to normal crank randomly (new Optima battery) --- is this mid crank that it speeds up or slows down or is it a "per event" type of situation. as in you go to crank it and it will either be slow or fast for that starting attempt. this could be a simple ground issue, a weak starter, oily or loose power connections between the fuse box and starter.... a whole number of things honestly.
- has random fittings open with no hoses or caps --- when going single turbo or modding, there are A LOT of systems that can be deleted. this is likely what youre seeing. there are of course many ways to go about deleting these systems. the easiest and fastest way is to simply unplug them or just remove whatever is running to it. it looks like it was just a lazy way to go about deleting things.
- the two SS - 6 fuel lines from the upgraded dual fuel pump assembly goes to a Y splitter which I was told to get rid of the Y splitter but I don't exactly know what to change it to --- the Y is so that both rails are fed instead of it being the stock way where its one in and one out. its called a parallel set up. there are a few thread on it. its supposed to be better or something like that. i think its something that the more high power people benefit from. the ones running huge injectors. for the rest of us, i dont really think it matters one way or the other.
-clutch feels absolutely horrible --- this can also be a bunch of different things. could be the hydraulics going out or the clutch itself. of course just saying it feels horrible is very subjective.
-leaking oil pan --- somewhat typical. so long as its not bad bad, youll be alright until you have a reason to pull the motor. i dont suggest dropping the subframe to do this since there is a high risk in breaking something. its safer and better to pull the motor to do the oil pan. an engine pull is pretty easy. while youre at it, just replace the oil pan entirely. theyre not that expensive and it will seal. the flanges can become warped but look fine and youll lose your mind as to why it isnt sealing. also get an oil pan brace if you dont already have on.
-leaking power steering --- depending on where its coming from, this is also somewhat typical.
- diff to drive shaft leak --- youre talking about at the flange where the diff bolts to it?
-missing 1 engine to tranny bolt --- if its the one on the very top, youre fine. i dont install that one on my own car. its a pain to deal with and not really needed. there are plenty of other bolts holding the thing together.
-egt probe not in exhaust --- ???
-oil pressure gauge low --- the stock one? ignore it. they rarely work the way they should. all 90s japanese cars are like this.
I'd like to know what this is. It's a green plastic hose that's connected to the oil filler neck to a black box. And here are a few pics of things I'd like to get more info on.
this is part of the throttle body warming, starbucks, mocha, anti ice, no ice, with ice system. its wothless. on the bottom the throttle body there is another one of those. coolant just passes through there to keep the throttle body nice and hot. its unnecessary. for a cleaner delete, its better to actually cut the nipple off entirely.
im hoping this isnt a mechanical water temp gauge. you dont typically see the electric ones with that coil around it. its hard to tell if thats a wire or a tube.
as others have already mentioned: thats an oil catch can that is installed super wrong. we would need to see what the other nipple on it goes to and where the other nipple on the oil neck goes as well.
Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to keep updating this thread to try to get some general info and direction so I can give this car a good home. Unfortunately, this car does seem to be neglected big time. The chassis itself is in good condition, but pretty much everything under the bay wasn't well taken care of. But that's behind me now. I flushed the coolant, new oil and filter, and added the relay to address the starting issue. I'll post pics of the relay I added. The underside of the car with the relay isn't my FD. It was just to show me how to wire it up.
If anyone is curious, the compression came out to this
F:59 56 69
R:83 74 85
What do you guys think? Would it be ok to drive on the weekends for a few months while I put some money to the side for the rebuild. Or should I just not drive it and save for the rebuild? The guys at DNA Garage said it should be fine to drive but not to boost and they recommended doing the rebuild right away to salvage any parts on the engine.
Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
Isn't this car built by Elite? Build quality is questionable from the few pictures you posted.
To get rid of the Y splitter, you need to run the dual -6AN line all the way to the bay, each feed one rail. The last picture looks like an oil catch can, which is not supposed to sit like that.
Yeah, I believe the work was done by Elite. I haven't heard of them but the car is not in good condition.
See, this is where I'm confused. There's three SS braided hoses coming from the fuel pump assembly. One directly to the bay, and the other two are split. If I run three new lines, where do I connect the third line? I believe it's running into this fuel rail. I have yet to take off the intake manifold so I haven't seen the rail yet.
https://www.rx7store.net/Ultimate_Fu...0fuel%20fd.htm
Originally Posted by cr-rex
- Starting/ problems (which I will follow a guide I found removing and replacing spark plugs and EGI fuse and putting some ATF in the holes.) --- this could be any number of things. with the questionable quality of everything, it could be as simple as needing to adjust the tune or could be related to the low compression. does it make a difference if its cold or hot?
- switches from slow crank to normal crank randomly (new Optima battery) --- is this mid crank that it speeds up or slows down or is it a "per event" type of situation. as in you go to crank it and it will either be slow or fast for that starting attempt. this could be a simple ground issue, a weak starter, oily or loose power connections between the fuse box and starter.... a whole number of things honestly.
I was able to fix this by adding a relay that I got from DNA Garage. I installed it on the starter and it seems the problem went away. I was told it has something to do with the power to the starter dropping off randomly and the relay would give a consistent power flow. In case anyone was wondering, it would have a normal crank but wouldnt start. When I tried again, it would crank very weak, almost like a dead battery.
- has random fittings open with no hoses or caps --- when going single turbo or modding, there are A LOT of systems that can be deleted. this is likely what youre seeing. there are of course many ways to go about deleting these systems. the easiest and fastest way is to simply unplug them or just remove whatever is running to it. it looks like it was just a lazy way to go about deleting things.
Would it be ok to plug up anyone random openings I see? Something just doesn't sit well with me leaving things open like that.
- the two SS - 6 fuel lines from the upgraded dual fuel pump assembly goes to a Y splitter which I was told to get rid of the Y splitter but I don't exactly know what to change it to --- the Y is so that both rails are fed instead of it being the stock way where its one in and one out. its called a parallel set up. there are a few thread on it. its supposed to be better or something like that. i think its something that the more high power people benefit from. the ones running huge injectors. for the rest of us, i dont really think it matters one way or the other.
I have to take off the intake manifold and I'll see what my options are. It just seems strange that there are three lines coming from the fuel pump assembly but then converted to two with the Y split. If I add the third, I'd have to figure out where I'd connect it to.
-clutch feels absolutely horrible --- this can also be a bunch of different things. could be the hydraulics going out or the clutch itself. of course just saying it feels horrible is very subjective.
Low on fluid. Added fluid, pumped the clutch pedal a few times and it definitely got better. Again, having to do that leads me to believe this FD was neglected.
-leaking oil pan --- somewhat typical. so long as its not bad bad, youll be alright until you have a reason to pull the motor. i dont suggest dropping the subframe to do this since there is a high risk in breaking something. its safer and better to pull the motor to do the oil pan. an engine pull is pretty easy. while youre at it, just replace the oil pan entirely. theyre not that expensive and it will seal. the flanges can become warped but look fine and youll lose your mind as to why it isnt sealing. also get an oil pan brace if you dont already have on.
Rebuild seems like its going to be sooner than I thought
-leaking power steering --- depending on where its coming from, this is also somewhat typical.
I added a pic so you guys can see where. It was low on fluid and I added some today. But on the assembly, it looks like fresh oil is coming out of it. Maybe ill just replace the power steering assembly all together.
- diff to drive shaft leak --- youre talking about at the flange where the diff bolts to it?
Not sure. That's what the guys are DNA told me. I'd probably have to get this done professionally since I don't have a lift.
-missing 1 engine to tranny bolt --- if its the one on the very top, youre fine. i dont install that one on my own car. its a pain to deal with and not really needed. there are plenty of other bolts holding the thing together.
Not sure. That's what the guys are DNA told me. I'll definitely get some clarification. My guess it's probablky the top bolt or else the guys at DNA would have probably made a bigger deal about it.
-egt probe not in exhaust --- ???
Not sure. That's what the guys are DNA told me. I did a little research and I think there are supposed to be two sensors on the exhaust manifold but its just "straight" pipe. I'll include a pic of what i think its supposed to look like, to what mine looks like.
-oil pressure gauge low --- the stock one? ignore it. they rarely work the way they should. all 90s japanese cars are like this.
the oil pressure gauge on the dash is pretty much not working, But the vehicle has a Haltech 1500 elite so I'm going to have to set up either a gauge or monitor it through the Dash Command app. BTW, what is a good oil pressure?
I'd like to know what this is. It's a green plastic hose that's connected to the oil filler neck to a black box. And here are a few pics of things I'd like to get more info on.
this is part of the throttle body warming, starbucks, mocha, anti ice, no ice, with ice system. its wothless. on the bottom the throttle body there is another one of those. coolant just passes through there to keep the throttle body nice and hot. its unnecessary. for a cleaner delete, its better to actually cut the nipple off entirely.
im hoping this isnt a mechanical water temp gauge. you dont typically see the electric ones with that coil around it. its hard to tell if thats a wire or a tube.
Yup, it was a mechanical water temp gauge. Good things i was able to connect to the Haltech ECU with the Dash Command app so I could monitor the water temp through my tablet. The temp didn't increase past 190F.
as others have already mentioned: thats an oil catch can that is installed super wrong. we would need to see what the other nipple on it goes to and where the other nipple on the oil neck goes as well.
I'm going to have to address that then. Is there any harm in leaving it that was for the time being?
Last edited by Ace Callaway; 03-16-20 at 07:16 PM.
03-16-20, 01:36 AM
New FD owner needs help!
