So we swapped back to the 90mm throttle body after some tuning. Car runs better with the 90 than the Bosch 82. YMMV.

@spintowinrx7 Not sure if you have come up with a solution for piping from your intercooler to throttle body yet, but I faced the same issue and wasn't too happy with my options. I came up with a solution if you are interested:

I have a Bosch 82 mm throttle body on my car (0280750473), and didn't like the current set of options available to adapt to the intercooler.
I designed a new "elbow" that will adapt from my current Greddy V-mount intercooler piping to the Bosch 82 mm throttle body. It uses 2X o-rings around the reduced diameter groove of the throttle body that interfaces with the inner diameter of the elbow flange to create a "piston" seal and uses commercially available o-rings.

The drive by wire adapter on my car is approximately 40 mm thick (this drives where the free end of the "elbow" sits). I used 70 mm socket head cap screws; there is roughly 10 mm of thread engagement into the throttle body adapter (with a ~3 mm thick washer, will be using M6 Nord-Locks). The current green elbow in there is just some 3D printed ABS for those who are curious.

I am planning on having this part CNC milled (5-axis) at a machine shop. Due to the nature of CNC programming, there is not much of a cost-quantity price break for just 1 part; I am looking to see if anyone else would be interested in this part for their car. I am going to be purchasing this elbow for my car regardless if others are interested, but me ordering several of these at a time will result in a much lower piece price (and would help me save a buck).

Please check out the pictures and let me know if there is any interest! Thanks!


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c28054eb29.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7ed030aa64.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9a6cebe734.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a7e0b7c262.jpg

That looks very expensive. Have you considered a much smaller machined adapter piece that bolts to the throttle, and then welding that to a piece of pre-bent aluminum pipe? You can find mandrel-bent pipe from shops like https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/ or Vibrant.

Yes, definitely not the cheapest or most cost effective solution. I guess I should have stated that from the start; I am okay with spending more money on something that I think looks nicer.
Currently, the cheapest quote for the part made from 6061-T6 and hardcoat anodized (type III, black) is as follows based on my step file:
QTY 1 is $770
QTY 5 is $477
I still have to send the official part drawing which may slightly alter the quote, but for a 5-axis part, I am relatively impressed with the price (mostly at the QTY 5). Doing it this way also allows for a smooth, lofted transition from the smaller diameter to the larger.

That's a part you could have cast. It would be way cheaper, and I'm sure you'd sell a run of 50 of them in a reasonable amount of time. It's a good product and worth investigating. If you need help with a foundry, I have a friend who has sculptures cast regularly (5-10 at a time) and they might be able to do a small run of elbows.

You could even do it sand cast back-yard style. It would cost about the same for the first one to get set up, after that you'd be casting money. There's quite a few online guides. And an old thread on VW Vortex where the guy sand cast a bunch of old plastic parts that aren't available anymore.

All the comically available elbows are sand cast, it's a much better process for this part.

Yes, I agree this part could be cast as well. At some quantity it would make a lot more sense to cast it compared with CNC machining, not denying that at all.

At this time though, I am just looking for anyone else who wants to buy this billet intake elbow at the machine shop's cost + shipping (to help me get a price break, and to help someone who could use this part). Just trying to get my car together and running sooner than later; maybe I can start a side gig selling cast versions of these for a profit once the car is running (if there are enough potential buyers out there).

it probably would be better to have an elbow adapter directly on the UIM, which is going to allow for a smoother, higher flowing C-L radius and then the DBW TB on the elbow end facing toward the front with the IC pipe coming straight into it. That’s one advantage of it being electronic rather than messing with a cable relocation.

https://www.globaltecheng.com/Produc...LR-65p7130.htm (0.120” wall x ~83mm ID)

and/or just modify the UIM, which is going to be more appropriate for a much higher than OE power level:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...69ae2fbde.jpeg
.

had meant to mention that an alternative to the above photo would be to cut several inches of the straight middle section of the UIM out and then weld it back together to allow more room for a proper elbow.
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