Do I need an aftermarket ECU???
 

Ok, I've received conflicting info from some on the forum. These are my mods:
streetported engine,
aftermarket muffler(it looks like an older single RB, same style, but no RB logo),
aluminum AST,
downpipe,
the radiator has been replace, not sure what kind it is,
I'm pretty sure the cat is stock/stocklike(how can I tell?).

I've been told that I shouldn't go WOT until I get a PFC and I've been told that it's ok to do so. The car does run rich and I do get the "put-put" from the exhaust I've heard from other streetported engines. BTW, when I start the car, with AWS, it jumps up to around 2.5k rpms and until the car warms up it idles around 1.3k rpms then it idles around 1-1.2k rpms.

So do I need an aftermarket ECU, or do I just need to adjust the timing and TPS? I'd really like to know because my first/only/incomplete boost test yielded curious results. Thanks!

I don't think you'd need to adjust the TPS. If you know how to adjust timing with the stock ECU, more power to ya! but as for needing an ECU, I'd say if your ports are sufficiently small, you'll be ok, just not making the kind of power you could be.

I was told you dont need to upgrade you ecu untill you go full exhaust , but it would be a good idea to get one. Its definetly your next step. Do go with a PFC. Only hear great things about it.

I'm not sure how much the engine was ported. I've made SEVERAL calls to the shop that did the engine rebuild/rad replacement/BOV/OMP replacement, but the guy is always conveniently not there and doesn't return my calls( RX-7 Heaven in Memphis ).

SAme question here!
aftermarket muffler old BORLA!
aluminum AST,
downpipe,
Big SMIC
pullies
straight mid-pipe.

CAr boosts a perfect 10-12-10 but rich
What do I do now?

For the thread starter, I think you are fine.

My guess is that you ^ are near, at, or over the edge of safety. The general rule of thumb has evolved to be that 10psi is okay, but you might pop the engine on your 12 psi transition spike.

Note that the car will run very rich (12:1, maybe richer) under boost when it is tuned correctly. If you run "lean", which means anything leaner than 13:1 in the turbo-rotary context, you might get detonation and break a seal. So, do you mean the car runs pig rich (10:1), a good amount of rich (11-12:1), or were you expecting it to run at stoich 14.7:1 under boost?

-Max

P-F-C :redface:

Thanks! I'm going to test the boost soon and get some real numbers. BTW, I'm horrible at watchin the road, tach, boost gauge, AND the speedo. Anyone in Southeast VA wanna go for a ride with me????

I will, Im in VA Beach. Email me at rotorhead_86@yahoo.com

Thanks Crono, email sent!