died in boost
 

Hi all

I was out of town for a month, my Fd was left with my folks and i wrote detail instructions on what to check before using the car and how to use the car. When i returned, the saturday that passed, i took it out for a spin. I was on a incline and when i drop a gear to wot, as the secondary turbine came on,it backfired and died on me. I pulled off to the side and i only got fuel smell, tried starting the car, it will crank normal, it will want to start but dont.
I got it towed home, did the deflooding procedure but to no avail. Fuel smell was very strong, only to realise my fuel pump is hooked up to work without the egi relay so instead of deflooding, i was flooding the engine more. Anyway i unplug the fuel pump connector and started deflooding again and most of the fuel smell is gone. It cranks and wants to start but it dont.
What i did so far:
Compression check still in the 85 range
New plugs
New egi relay (as old one was clicking without the key in ignition)
Fuel pump still good
Change oil and filter
Cross examined my folks on how they use the car, they literally babied it.
Spoke to the mech on who helped with my boost problems , he said not to use atf but mix 20w50 oil with 10w50 motorcycle oil and pour in low chambers, he highly doubts its a stuck seal, i did that tonight so it will soak in and in the morning i must try starting it.
Any advice will really help.

92 fd type r with 46000km
Redom ecu 1.1 bar boost is set
Full exhaust system
V mount intercooler
Blitz twin air intake
Borsch 5bar fuel pump
Plugs are all 9s
Re amemiya lsd
Fuel used 95 octane

Have you checked your spark? Disable fuel, remove a spark plug, connect plug wire to plug, ground plug to engine block and have a friend turn the engine over. Observe spark. Check all 4.

You need 4 things for an engine to run. Verify that you have Fuel, Air (you will unless you have a rabbit in your filter box), spark, compression. It seems like you have verified all but spark.

Perhaps upload a video, with audio, of the engine turning over.

And make sure fuel is getting in the rotors, i.e. Make sure the injecotrs are working correctly

Will check that this afternoon. The video, i need to post, is it when im deflooding or when trying to start it.

Trying to start

Because of the crap weather, you cant hear much of the car, so will take a video once it clears,

I followed the fsm page 205 to 206, found out i had a faulty circuit relay as there is voltage to it when key is on but as i try to start it drops to 9 volts, changed that and the car wants to start quicker but it dont. It still is giving off strong fuel smell and lot of white smoke from exhaust during deflooding.

This is the first time, i am experiencing this with the car. The atf is my last resort, my question to yourll is: will 4 ounce of atf per rotor face be enough.
I read i have to use atf again after 8 hours, before deflooding

I know ill have to do it couple of times but hoping it starts after. If it does not start by end of this coming week then i dont know

I've never had to use ATF to start a rotary. However, my experience stretches to only a couple motors. I can't advise you on its use and as fair as I know, the only time you really use it is when you want to turn over an engine that has been sitting still for years.

Have you verified spark at all four plugs yet? As I said, you'll want to verify air/fuel/spark/compression before spending a bunch of time and money by replacing things at random or pouring liquids in to your motor.


Also, FSM will tell you how to check your injectors. Make sure one of them isn't stuck open

You should verify spark, it's easy to do as described earlier.

Why are you needing atf? It seems like you flooded your motor pretty good. Try to deflood really good, throw some new plugs in, and I used a cap of premix in wach runner to help build compression. Started right up, good luck .

Yes i verified spark on each plug.
When the car loss power, and i was doing the deflood procedure, even with the egi removed that fuel pump was still supplying fuel to the engine. So for 3 days, i was flooding the engine instead of deflooding it because i forgot the fuel pump is wired to run direct

Hi guys , just an update

I used a 9v battery and tested the secondary injectors they both clicked, placed everything back and the car started. Because of the atf , it was smoking alot.
It idle for 5 mins then switch off. I tried starting again only getting fuel smell but no start. I deflooded all over again and tried to start but it refuse.
I guess the secondary are stuck open

Please advise

Got the car started, but have to keep it above 1000rpm for it to run. When i let go it idles but after a few mins it dies. When i check the plugs, the rear lead plug is soaked. If i change that plug it will start and idle as long as i have my foot on the accelerator and when let go idles then dies. Only after changing rear lead plug which is always soaked, will start again
P.s. The atf is still in the system

Sadly sounds like blown motor.
when you remove plugs, remove EGI fuse and crank, do you hear even pulses?

Idk, I think it sounds like a stuck injector.

Couple of options..
you could remove all 4 injectors and send them to RC Enterprises to be flow tested.
You can YouTube how to build an injector flow bench and do it yourself, lol.
You could remove the bolts holding the fuel rails in place, have a friend turn on the key (do not start), then easily lift each rail just high enough to see if fuel is flowing past the injectors while the pump is priming. Hopefully, with out making a mess.
You might also consider checking fuel pressure as outlined in the FSM.

I would CERTAINLY do a compression test to rule out "blown motor". If it's blown then I would guess your parents drove the car more aggressively than they lead you to believe. Or perhaps they filled it with 87 and floored it? Lol. Let's hope not.

Lol , compression test was one of the first things that was done and came back with go results.
Car is starting but have to hold accelerator.
Fuel pressure is good
Its only the rear lead plug that is soaked in gasoline even after 15 mins of idle , the rest are dry.
I verified spark, could be a faulty plug wire as the leads share one coil

I got 5 videos which are 3mb each. I am trying to upload it, so yourl can give your advice.
As i am uploading, its saying invalid video.
Please forward me an email so i can send it to any of you, who can upload it for the rest to diagnose

Video one

Video 2

Video 3

Video 4

Video 5
Guys please advise, as the car at idles slowly dies.
When trying to start it will swing but it wont
When i change the rear leading plug which is always wet in fuel and go start , it starts effortlessly

The more i read other threads, im pretty sure its a stuck secondary injector
Apart from the smoke from the atf and 2 stroke mix, once cleared no smoke on idle
Theres no sound of knocking
Compression in both rotors are 85
Oil and coolant levels are full
But i will wait for you guys to advise if i missed something

I don't think you've missed anything. Stuck injector is what I was suspecting/mentioned a couple posts back. I can't watch the videos until tomorrow. Feels like we're close to solving it though

Thanks will wait to hear what you after seeing the videos

Anyone ....?

I got a price of 25usd to service each injector, that is if i remove it myself. Turn around time is 5 hours if nothing major.
My question to the guys who recon their injectors, how long did they last

Sorry pal, totally forgot about you. Spent all day working on locomotives then came home and spent all evening working on the 7... Lol. TOMORROW for real.