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Originally posted by rx7raca get rid of the ecu, my friend blew his engine becuase it didnt give enough fuel. get a m2 or pettit, much better designed IMO. also, dont go to the dealership, get a ride from someone to pep boys or some rice boy store, and get a compression tester, dont want to drive the car if you dont have to. in other words you dont want to hurt any other inturnal engine parts. irons,housings,etc. now go get a tester ;) o ya anything below 80psi, and its gone. I have a compression tester, but I thought you couldn't use a regualr one on rotaries. How many miles on the engine? Anything else to check before I do the compression check? I'm gonna test the MAP sensor over the weekend. Unlikely culprit but I wanna do it anyways. Other then that I can't think of anything else that could suddenly pop off and cause symptoms like this. |
Not symptoms with the combinations together you are describing.
You can use a normal compression tester. Hold down the peak valve. You're looking for inconsistency in the 3 needle jumps. |
Originally posted by Zoomspeed I thought the general opinion on G-force ECUs is that they are tuned rich. I have a compression tester, but I thought you couldn't use a regualr one on rotaries. about 28k and its a mazda reman. no oil temp gauge. Anything else to check before I do the compression check? I'm gonna test the MAP sensor over the weekend. Unlikely culprit but I wanna do it anyways. Other then that I can't think of anything else that could suddenly pop off and cause symptoms like this. every gforce is different...ive been down there and watched them tune by guess before they closed down. they were in there tweaking fuel curves without having precise air fuel ratios for the car....after seeing that..and tuning the pfc with the datalogit...i will never ever do an ecu job like that...let alone suggest it. best of luck...i wouldnt drive it AT ALL. you may ruin housings that do not need to be replaced. park it. tow it. i tow mine with my cel phone roadside assistance. works every time. thankfully its been two years since any towing. woot! j |
that sucks, im about to order a reman hopefully it was your ecu not a faulty engine build
im not sure if anyone else asked but what boost levels were you at? also trust me on the method I told you for the compression test. dont check the map sensor and no need to get a gauge. How hard is it to take out the fuel pump relay and 1 spark plug and try to start the car? it will be real obvious my friend.... if you plan to get another reman it doesnt really matter if you still drive on it or not. I raised the idle on my car to 1700 and drove it for a week after it blew up...now I parked it because I examined my turbo and it wasnt damaged surprisingly so I have something to save....you need to also remember that you probably wiped out your twins as well. |
and the good news keeps on coming. :( All of this right after I pay my tution too.
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yep mine was popped!
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You get a compression test yet?
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Originally posted by Mahjik If the engine is shaking like mad, the vacuum is bouncing (not constant)..... the times I've seen that, the engine is toast. what happens if your engine shakes during regular morning or cold start up? and it shakes (kinda rough) but vacuum dosn't bounce until warm, then engine stays very quiet when fully warm. is that a sign of engine going bad? |
Originally posted by jspecracer7 You get a compression test yet? |
I'm about 75% sure you popped it.
But there's a 25% chance it's something else. My experience with a stuck seal in my FC was that the car ran very rough at idle, and had no power. But it didn't smoke and didn't shake radically. Good luck. |
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