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I've search on the forums and never saw good pictures or details on what the definitive jacking points or jack stand locations should be on the FD. For the front, these two pictures are what I've used and see. This is looking at the underside of the car from sitting under the front bumper. So imagine the looking at the car from front to back if you view the picture top to bottom.
Locations 1 and 2 are what I believe to be the places you can jack up the front, and the jack stands are placed as shown. Is this a good idea? My concern would be the stress on the subframe from those stand locations, and the stress of using one of those points as the jacking location. Any input is appreciated.
I always jack up from the front middle of the subframe then put the jack stands on the back part of the subframe near where the motor mounts attach. But, most anywhere on the subframe is a good spot.
The locations you indicated and the comments DaleClark are good and align with how I lift the front.
Nemo128 - Really appreciate the inclusion of such a clear picture - Maybe someone can add the same for the rear. Possibly adding locations on how to support it when you want to pull out the front or rear sub-frames.
I have a 2-post lift for most things and use the factory jacking points on the pinch-welds for lift arm placement. If I'm working from the floor, I like to use a set of ramps to put the car up in the air alittle first. Then I can better see where I'm putting the floor jack on the middle of the front crossmember. I also have a 1" thick piece of heavy rubber I like to use with the jack, especially on the rear differential so I don't screw up any of the fins. And I use those same factory jacking points for jack-stand placement.
I don’t use the rocker pinch-welds for lifting either. But every jack stand I've owned has the recess that accommodates the pinch weld much like the Mazda scissor jack. The pinch-welds are pretty damn strong, but If position properly it shouldn’t be sitting on them anyway. They were covered in black undercoating from the factory and that’s easily replaced. It’s not anything that’s easily visible and I’m more concern about safety than cosmetics of something that you almost have to lay on the ground to see. But you’re right ...I think harbor freight even sells the pads that fit over the stands. Regardless, I’ve responded to scenes with cars that have fallen on people. It’s not pretty. Putting stands there provides a wider base that’s not (IMO) as prone to slipping as putting them on the crossmembers. And you’re away from suspension components and pretty much anything else you might have to work on.
So, I used the points recommended in the FSM for my jack stands. My car's pinch welds were already pretty much flattened by the time I got it, so I didn't have that concern. Plus, those points seem to provide the broadest support (ie safest) and provide alot of room to work down there.
For lifting, the subframe and the diff are good options, but be careful not to let the jack slip off an oily subframe!
Seeing axle stands strait into the sub frame make me cringe, I'll do that on my daily, but not the FD! I usually pack it out with an appropriate sized bit of wood.
The front legs are a good location if you use a large piece of wood between the axle stand and the leg. For rear I usually go for a small piece of wood just inside of the sill, near the seatbelt mount holes.
These locations will allow you to remove all components e.g. sub frames etc safely. For jacking I always jack the diff or the front sub frame, never touch the sills. Again, packing with wood to avoid damage to the diff casing or sub frame.
Best place for the jack stands is on the pinch welds. Sure it may dent them a little.
The front cross member is a terrible idea because it's too close together and they can also slide.
What really damages the pinch welds is jacking the car up (which I also do lol) on them. Best way to avoid this is to drive the front up on ramps and then jack the front a little from the center of the cross member. Go around back and jack from the rear sub frame at the lowest point or where the rear control arm slides in. Then go back to the front and raise some more etc....
USE BIG jack stands for safety. The little ones can be dangerous. You may have to start with the little ones in the front because you can't raise the front too much before raising the back.
Go to home depot, and buy a couple five foot lengths of 2x2. Lock it behind and against the pinch weld, along the length, and then jack the side up from the middle, just behind the mirror. Place your stands. Then go to the other side, and do the same with the other 2x2.
Zero damage to the pinch weld, and stable jacking/standing.
I did this for years till I had box section jack points welded in. I even rounded the 2x2 a little pit at the two stand points, so the jack stand cradles it nicely.
Best place for the jack stands is on the pinch welds. Sure it may dent them a little.
The front cross member is a terrible idea because it's too close together and they can also slide.
+1
Regardless of how quick/easy/prevalent they are, the diff and subframe are sketchy jacking and jack-standing points. Safer to use the pinch welds, ramps, and lifts.
I just put huge blocks of wood (12x12x24) under the wheels and chock them, unless I'm working on suspension parts then I use the subframes with wood and stands.
To lift I use a scissor jack with the slotted shoe on the pinch welds, then a trolley jack + wood on the subframe.
Small jack stands...not really good
Large jack stands...better
Jacking on subframes...not really good
Initial use of ramps to raise car...better
Jack stands on suspension...stupid
Jack stands on subframes...bad
Jack Stands on pinch-welds at factory strong points...good
Jack stands with padding on pinch-welds at factory strong points...OCD but cool.
Lift on pinch-welds at factory strong points...better
Lift on pinch-welds at factory strong points with large refrigerator full of beer and small humidor nearby...******* awesome
Well, what are the odds? My car happens to be up on stands now! Here's a couple shots of the box section that was welded in, and a shot of the 2x2 I used to use before that.
Thanks!—the only thing I didn't do is get a third one welded in the middle for the jack, so I still use a short chunk of 2x4 behind the pinch weld for that.
Thanks!—the only thing I didn't do is get a third one welded in the middle for the jack, so I still use a short chunk of 2x4 behind the pinch weld for that.
Best place for the jack stands is on the pinch welds. Sure it may dent them a little.
The front cross member is a terrible idea because it's too close together and they can also slide.
.
Yup, especially if you have a wood block between the jackstand and subframe. You don't realize how close you are to an agonizing death until the whole thing shifts while you're under it.
I have a 2-post lift for most things and use the factory jacking points on the pinch-welds for lift arm placement. If I'm working from the floor, I like to use a set of ramps to put the car up in the air alittle first. Then I can better see where I'm putting the floor jack on the middle of the front crossmember. I also have a 1" thick piece of heavy rubber I like to use with the jack, especially on the rear differential so I don't screw up any of the fins. And I use those same factory jacking points for jack-stand placement.
^ Quoted for truth, end of story. Go with what the factory say, fellas...pretty simple. They only BUILT the car, lol!
I don't know about you guys, but my car is too low to get a jack to either of the subframes. Those Supernow pads are neat, but I couldn't reach them. I believe Supernow also makes aluminum pads that go on the pinch welds and secure with a set screw... they would work similar to what I've done.
I used to drive the front up on race ramps to get a jack under the car. I could get a jack under the rear as it sat and lift via the differential though.
03-11-18, 05:27 PM
I don’t use the rocker pinch-welds for lifting either. But every jack stand I've owned has the recess that accommodates the pinch weld much like the Mazda scissor jack. The pinch-welds are pretty damn strong, but If position properly it shouldn’t be sitting on them anyway. They were covered in black undercoating from the factory and that’s easily replaced. It’s not anything that’s easily visible and I’m more concern about safety than cosmetics of something that you almost have to lay on the ground to see. But you’re right ...I think harbor freight even sells the pads that fit over the stands. Regardless, I’ve responded to scenes with cars that have fallen on people. It’s not pretty. Putting stands there provides a wider base that’s not (IMO) as prone to slipping as putting them on the crossmembers. And you’re away from suspension components and pretty much anything else you might have to work on.
