I got a new one from Rich. I borrowed back the one I sold Tom too, it wasn't any louder!
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Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12110048)
So it's not supposed to be that loud :scratch:
If it's got some pop and cackle then that's how it's supposed to sound but there shouldn't be too much drone. If it sounds like a straight pipe then the muffler is dead :) I was just giving Pete hell. The PFS isn't what I'd consider a quiet exhaust. That said I love the sound and the tip is tasteful/attractive. Kind of like it though and it does flow :icon_tup:
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 12110117)
I got a new one from Rich. I borrowed back the one I sold Tom too, it wasn't any louder!
Just giving you shit. The pfs exhaust is made like a tank. The TI is just a tiny bit louder, like maybe 20 percent :lol: |
Originally Posted by eslai
(Post 12109827)
There's another advantage to it being a not a completely free-flowing exhaust--whenever I am tempted to up the boost/v-mount/single turbo, I'll have folks saying "aw man, but you have the wrong exhaust!" and then I'll be all "dang, I already spent money on that. Guess I won't turn it up!" :lol:
with that said :devil: I wouldn't go as far to say it is the wrong exhaust...:devil: |
:dunno: Nothing registered on the butt-dyno when I moved to the RB DT either.
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Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
(Post 11970598)
The mod list below is from one of my cars and it's close to what I'd consider the perfect street FD. 15 years ago these mods would be considered extreme or this would be a heavily modded FD. Today this is just a typical FD setup with reliability mods... A nice SMIC, exhaust work, injectors and a PFC easily net you 300 rwhp which is a 75 HP jump from factory power or a 30 percent increase and that's no joke....
Suspension and torsional support: Ohlin Coilovers, Bansai trans and diff braces and an R1 strut brace. Exhaust: down pipe and Racing Beat dual tip exhaust. Engine: PFC with OLED commander, dual intake filters, GReddy intake elbow, Supra TT pump, AST elimination, battery relo, vacuum line simplification including the Bansai block plate kit, lightened flywheel, air pump elimination, and a Pettit idler pulley. Result is a conservative and safe 315 RWHP. Cooling: Pettit smic, Koyo radiator. Interior: Recovered seats in black Italian leather (from tan), replaced seats plastics from tan to black, recovered shift knob and boot, major stereo simplification. Exterior: R1 front lip, TrakLite wheels 18x8.5/9.5; 235/35 and 275/30. New OEM exterior door handles, 99 Spec taillights, Effini logos front and rear. |
I just finished swapping back from an ORC twin plate to ACT extreme pressure plate with a performance street sprung disc. I'm so happy I switched back. The twin plate was way more than I needed on a 430whp and 355lb/ft car and completely annoying to drive on the street. I absolutely love having a more normal clutch again.
I had glazed the twin plate so engagement wasn't harsh but it also didn't hold any power over about 200hp lol. Once I rebuilt it I remembered that I hated it lol. I was either doing a burnout or killing the car about every time I left from a stop. |
Exactly SJ! IMO there's nothing that makes a car more of a chore to drive than a laborious clutch. Did that on a prior car -- just a minor performance clutch, not like a heavy duty beast -- and every light was a PITA. So ya, spot on!
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I've always gone with the idea of overbuilding certain parts of the project, primarily the fuel system, cooling system, etc. I applied that to the clutch as well, although it was more idiotic with the twin plate because I got it more because of status rather than performance or ease of use lol. "Hey, it'll look cool in pics", which are only taken when the engine is out or the tranny is out. Not a great idea. Although I did get it for a great price at $800 slightly used. Still a poor choice overall though. I'm really glad it's enjoyable to drive again.
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what would you say i do to my fuel system if im only running 10 ~ 12 psi on 99twins and bnr's?
stock airbox , stock cat or HFC with a RB single tip . oh and greddy SMIC and a pfc |
Originally Posted by kensin
what would you say i do to my fuel system if im only running 10 ~ 12 psi on 99twins and bnr's?
stock airbox , stock cat or HFC with a RB single tip . oh and greddy SMIC and a pfc |
^Agreed. No need to go crazy on fuel for just that little bit of change. That's even a tad of overbuilding I would say, but I would do it just because it's more change than stock and it's better to be safe.
Another thing I'd add is that those 1300 secondaries be side feed so you can still use the stock fuel rails. I'm sure that's what Peter meant but he didn't mention it specifically and I thought I'd clarify just in case you didn't know. |
Originally Posted by kensin
(Post 12137179)
what would you say i do to my fuel system if im only running 10 ~ 12 psi on 99twins and bnr's?
stock airbox , stock cat or HFC with a RB single tip . oh and greddy SMIC and a pfc A lot of people underestimate the stock fuel pump for some reason but it is very similar to the Supra pump everyone raves about and can flow enough for 95% of all FD owners. I have 99 spec twins and run about 13-14 PSI on the following setup with no issues whatsoever:
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thanks guys for the input. gives me an idea of which direction I want to take my FD this time around
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Originally Posted by Montego
(Post 12110246)
I've haven't seen any data to back that up, so to me the question is by how much? I have a RB catback in my GT35R FD and there are no signs of it being too restrictive for it. In fact, @ 15 psi I was able to run down a 400RWHP SRT-4.
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 12109922)
A buddy with a single turbo at ~400 rwhp lost a solid 20 rwhp moving from a turbo tuff exhaust to the RB and then switched back. Looking at the piping diameter and bends it's not surprising really.
However, I will still take my RB duals anyday. To me 20 RWHP is a decent trade off for a low key, non droning, good sounding exhaust. Because I'm at the point in my life where being low key trumps all. M- |
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 12137188)
Drop in a Supra pump and 1300cc secondaries, get a tune and leave the rest alone.
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Yes, it is a Denso pump just like the stock pump. They are really close in design with the Supra pump offering a bit more overall flow capability. Up to c.400 whp you can keep the stock pump so long as it is rewired to ensure it gets 13-14v at WOT rather than how the stock wiring setup usually results in 11.5v or less at WOT.
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Originally Posted by Montego
(Post 12138035)
However, I will still take my RB duals anyday. To me 20 RWHP is a decent trade off for a low key, non droning, good sounding exhaust. Because I'm at the point in my life where being low key trumps all. M- I'm keeping the Ti though just in case I ever want to put it back on, and because it's fairly rare lol. |
I went from Greddy Ti which is quite raspy to an OBX-R Ebay cat back.
I modified the OBXR so it was 100% straight through and it is 3.5" compared to the Greddy Ti which is 3". The big cannister of the OBX-R looks more stock and gives the car a deep tone with no drone. You don't have to sacrifice performance and use Racing Beat- you can use a better flowing catback and it will sound great as long as it has a big oval muffler. |
I have a resonated mp and the St. May exhaust and it is too loud for my taste. I am strongly considering switching to the RB exhaust. I was also thinking of switching to a muffler instead of the resonater to see if that gets rid of the drone.
Blue, do you have a sound clip by chance? You got me curious... |
This is what the OBX-R cat back with resonated SMB high flow cat and downpipe sounds like from inside.
This is with stock catted downpipe, stock cat and OBX-R cat back. Bad sound from a flip phone- but it really was raspier than the above aftermarket set-up (I think from smaller stock piping into 3.5" cat back piping and no resonator after cat like SMB.) Small piping to big piping gives you the "Honda sound" in my experience. |
Originally Posted by silverTRD
(Post 12138409)
I have a resonated mp and the St. May exhaust and it is too loud for my taste. I am strongly considering switching to the RB exhaust. I was also thinking of switching to a muffler instead of the resonater to see if that gets rid of the drone.
Blue, do you have a sound clip by chance? You got me curious... |
Originally Posted by silverTRD
(Post 12138409)
I have a resonated mp and the St. May exhaust and it is too loud for my taste. I am strongly considering switching to the RB exhaust. I was also thinking of switching to a muffler instead of the resonater to see if that gets rid of the drone.
Blue, do you have a sound clip by chance? You got me curious... |
Kensin, I don't know if I could ever let go of this exhaust. It looks cool just hanging on the wall even lol. Unless I find a RE dual dolphin tip, that'd be kick ass. If I do decide to sell I'll contact you ;-)
I had my welder install a magnaflow 7" round resonater in a mp I had. It sounds nice and deep at idle and cruise, just drones too much for my taste tho. Its hard to have a conversation or talk on the phone. I don't know if the mp is to blame tho. |
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
(Post 12138364)
You don't have to sacrifice performance and use Racing Beat- you can use a better flowing catback and it will sound great as long as it has a big oval muffler.
big take away? the bigger the muffler the quieter it was. pipe size didn't seem to matter |
Originally Posted by silverTRD
(Post 12138651)
I had my welder install a magnaflow 7" round resonater in a mp I had. It sounds nice and deep at idle and cruise, just drones too much for my taste tho. Its hard to have a conversation or talk on the phone. I don't know if the mp is to blame tho.
In my experience the round mufflers and 'cherry bomb' style pieces basically do jack shit when it comes to muffling the exhaust noise on a rotary :) |
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