Damn coolant, WTH
 

The other day it was throwing the coolant into the overflow after I shut it off, which means the coolant in the motor was to hot so it threw it into the overflow. So I replaced the rad. cap and the ast cap today with mazda stock replacements. I drove it twice for about 15 min. each time, everything was fine, no overflow out of the overflow, and after it cooled down I checked the coolant level in the filler neck, it didn't go down much at all, barely any in fact. So to test drive it the third time I start by topping off the hose by the throttle body, the ast, and then the filler neck. I start it and start driving and 30 seconds later the coolant buzzer goes off, and then 10 sec. later it stops. I take it right back, pop the top and the level was down, but not passed the coolant sensor. And then as I am looking down the filler neck the level rises back to the top and it kept going up and down, and I wasn't touching a damn thing. What the hell is that?:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :confused: :confused:

Sorry I just had to laugh at the picture of you watching your coolant going up and down. hahaha

Anyone else have this happen to them?:crzyeye:

When you have the cap off, the coolant will move around somewhat... that's normal.

B

are those air pockets that are making the level rise up and down so much? Should I keep burping it some more?

Coolant light
 

I have a similar problem. Every day for about 2 wks, every time I started the car the coolant light went on (93 rx7) for about 30 sec to 1 min then went out. Then after 2 weeks a hose expoded and coolant was all over the place. Got the hose fixed and all was fine for 2 days. Then the light started coming on again, sometimes for 10 sec, sometimes for a minute or two. Sometimes the temp gauge even goes up for a few secs then drops. I have no idea what is the problem, can someone help?


My email is rkennedy@netzero.net
I would greatly appreciate any replies....
Bob

Sorry,
My email is rj_kennedy@netzero.net

After all if I ask for help I should give the correct address :)

damn all of the coolant problems with FD's and nobody wants to help us out. Bet you wanted help when it was you. Rikki (Ryan) and Dave can't be the only ones that know their shit.

DHALL, i've followed your numerous threads from the moment you bought your car and all these coolant problems. I'm pretty sure a lot of guys have tried to assist you here. And i'm trying really hard to figure out what the heck is going on wiht your car, but i'm pretty much stumped. You got an extremely good deal on your car, and it seems the previous owner wanted to bite the bullet and sell it. I think if you encounter these problems much longer, you should consider buying a rebuilt motor. Which is something you knew was likely needed from the moment you bought the car.

So say you go and rebuild the motor get nwe turbos whatver..you got yourself a nice nice FD for under 13K..That's a deal man!!

I wish you the best of luck with your car.

Danny

Hey DHall, I sent you an e-mail about the coolant problem! Let me know is you need more information, I can find out more from the specialist whom is fixing my shit mobile!!!!!
-Nicole

For the past 2 weeks, after which I brought my car in for a coolant flush and AST installation.

The car BEEPS AND BEEPS like hell, sending the coolant signals to my fucking ear drums...

You are not the only one...this is getting irritating...

Cheers ;)

I've been doing my homework on this one. I'd say that from what I have read Heavenscent (didn't you mean Heavensent) that your coolant seals are no longer sealing and you are looking at a rebuild or reman..

You mean you turn the car on and it beeps and doesn't stop beeping? Then you may need to plug the water temp gauge sensor in.

I think that you all will find this lnk very helpful. Read it all..

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o-ring_failure.html

;) :patriot: :zip:

keep messing with it and it will be o.k. Do not replace the motor until she does not start at all. why replace something that is still working. Dustin try pressure testin the system to 14 psi and see if she holds. if she does you are out of the woods for now. I will talk at ya tonight. I got real busy messing with resistors last night and forgot to call sorry:(

-Rikki

Also Ryan if it's blown coolant seals why delay the inevitable and just get the new motor already?

he has told me many of times it starts fine and does not smoke to his knowledge. I would drive her in the ground than put a motor in it. Blown coolant seals suck but htis car maybe hit or miss. Granted it sucks to do a motor for a damn coolant seal but why do it when it runs so damn good. IMO

just my 11 cents

-Rikki

I say if you're going to rebuild it yourself, then go ahead and rebuild it.

If you're going to pay someone to do it for you, then run the focker into the ground.

Thanks for all of the help guys. Still starts fine and no smoke, so I am going to keep eliminating everything.

If you just replaced the rad, i assume that you refilled the system. This sounds like the normal burping process. It can take some time to get all the air pockets out.

BTW, its normal to push SOME coolant into the overflow after shutoff (thats why its there)... especially if its REALLY hot out. The coolant heats up and expands when theres no flow. Be wary when you push so much that it overflows the overflow tank. This means combustion is pushing by your o-rings and pressurising the coolant. This can be the source of a baffling loss of coolant and a buzzer when you start cold. (been there).

i'd thouroughly pressure test the system, and after driving re-check the levels when COLD. Look to see if anything is coming out of the overflow bottle, or theres maybe a puddle underneath it after shutoff.

Dustin..

Think it could be a faulty coolant senor??

You say, Your car doesn't piss coolant after a drive.
No smoke on start up or on a drive. Just wondering.

BTW: have you WOT her yet??

ptrhhahn, the combustion isn't pushing through the o-rings and causing the pressure. The heat causes the pressure since the water is attempt to boil (think pressure cooker, since there is pressure the water boils at a higher temperature). Once the coolant is hot there is always pressure. That's why it's dangerous to take off the caps when it's hot.

If the o-ring is gone you just get coolant in your engine, but you don't get combustion outside the chamber really.

Coolant
 

Okay I've had simular problem and the worst case is what happened to the Sport Compact Car project RX7. O-ring tragedy let's just hope it's not that.:mad: Get the pressure test done. Hopefully that's will pin point the real issue.

What PSI should the cap be? I looked it up in a book and the 93 says 16psi but the 94 and 95 are 14 psi...Seems odd, doesnt it?

I have the pressure tester, I did it once and I found a leaking lower rad. hose. I fixed that and it worked for a day, and then it would start to spit out the overflow after shut off. So yesterday I replaced the ast cap and the rad cap. It didn't spit out the overflow, but now the damn coolant level went down so far to throw the sensor after my third test drive, and only after like 30 sec. and then I pulled back to my house, popped the filler neck and looked at the level. It was definately down, and then out of no where the level rose back up to the top(WTF) and I wasn't touching a thing. As I stared at it the damn level was going up and down, and I wasn't touching a damn thing. I have a new tstat for it, does anyone think that it is the tstat getting stuck open or shut, allowing the level to just rise up and down, or could it be a huge air pocket somewhere in the system(seems logical)