Dammit again. Now wont' run after block off plates
 

So, decided to take apart a running car to make it simplified sequential. Took it apart, took out the emissions stuff, blocked everything. Put it back together. Accidentally touched the alternator and saw a big spark. Freaked out. Tried starting, Started. Idled at bout 3500-4000 rpm. Figured the powerfc needed to relearn idle. Reset powerfc, turned car off. Did it again. Started up, then when idle started to drop, it started loping. Saw sparks coming out exhaust. Freaked out. Turned off car. Started car, moved to street, drove around the block, let it idle. It dies. Won't start now. It cranks, sometimes i get it to start a little, it lopes, and dies...wtf went wrong?

Sorry bout not organizing...just pissed now.

Pics and what did you delete?

aws, double throttle, acv, air pump

Does everything appear to work with the ignition ON and no start? How about the PFC?

Yea, pfc turns on, all gauges work fine. At first, it started up quick. Right now, its a bit hard to start but will kick and run for couple seconds. If i used the black gasket maker stuff on the throttle body, could that let the coolant in killing the motor or something?

On the PFC go to the sensor/switch screen and post the voltages. Try doing this after the car dies.

Removing the AWS and ACV, might bring down the idle since their no longer increasing the idle. You may have to set the idle screw and the screw underneath your throttle body. But the fact that your car started the first time with 4k would suggest a vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks. Can you keep the car running with the throttle?

Although, sparks out the exhaust? You sure they weren't just flames? And this was at idle with the car sitting?

thewird

Well, fresh gas got it to start. Definately sparks as they were floating around which is why i took the car out of the garage. Now I have the loping to deal with. I think I must have plugged something in wrong.

When the rpms come down from a lope, the vacuum goes up(almost to 0atm) and then goes back down to vacuum when the engine revs. So I'm guessing the loping has to do with boost? Really thanks for the help guys. I was so mad i took a nap.

Any chance you can get vid of the sparks? I've never heard of that before.

Whats your TPS voltages at?

thewird

Know its blurry but this is while it was running just now
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...1032010604.jpg

PIM: 2.05v
VTA1: 0.79v
VTA2: 1.85v
VMOP 1.36
WTRT: 0.59
AIRT: 1.19
Fuel: 3.39
O2s: 0.17

side note...The wird, is your site still up? Used to go to it for initial d . Man that was a long time ago

Does the PIM read different with the car off? I don't remember what the voltages translate to and I don't have my car here to check.

Your voltages should read the below at idle or with the car off... You have your AWS removed so it shouldn't be affecting the readings.

VTA1: closed 0.10 to 0.70. open 4.2 to 4.6.
VTA2: closed 0.75 to 1.25. open 4.8 to 5.0.

You probably need to adjust your TPS, idle screw, and the AAS. And then reset the PowerFC so it can learn the new idle.

On another note, I assume this is a stock car and your using the base PowerFC map? Resetting the PowerFC deletes any tune you have on there and loads the base map.

My site is still up but I haven't updated it in years.

thewird

mods are arc intake, midpipe, catback, powerfc, and simplified. lol, knew i shouldn't mess with something that was working. It idled fine before. Yes, still on base map. Had a boost issue of it only hitting 7 or 8psi and then going down to 3psi with the secondarys so i took it apart and figured i'd go simple. Guess I need to learn how to adjust the tps. Thanks, try it out tomorrow

when fighting your throttle issues, it's good practice to disconnect cruise control if you have it.


also check to see that the VTA values change as you open the throttle, they should change smoothly. a jerky reaction could be a bad TPS.


OF course before adjusting you should ensure that your air adjusting screw (AAS) is correct. Screw it all the way in then 1/4 of a turn out. Then move to adjusting the TPS/VTA.

Check for leaks that go to the big fat actuator to fix your boost problems. Other then that its difficult to diagnose further through the internets ^_^

thewird

Did you plug the map sensor back in?

Not when it's cold, unless the fast idle cam has been removed. His voltage is about right if the fast idle cam has not come down.

Pressurize the intake system like you are doing a boost leak test. That will locate any potential vacuum leaks.

Reset the pfc again... Now it start right up but idles at bout 3800 rpm. Great...

Have you read this thread thoroughly? https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-make-your-untuned-pfc-basemap-safer-idle-better-no-datalogit-needed-841706/

It covers a LOT of PFC idle stuff. But your car has to be in good mechanical condition for that to be helpful.

So you don't think it might be that i hooked something up wrong? I think it seems a little weird that it idles right around 4k rpm. (primary turbo?) Also that the boost goes up when the revs come down seems weird while vacuum increases when rev goes up...the opposite of what it should be?

Isn't the fast idle cam, the AWS ;). The thing with the termalwax.

thewird