Crank, No Start, No Fuel, Fuel Pump Works
So i just had my engine and transmission out to change my turbos and replace my 5th gear synchronizer. I put it all back in and thought i had everything done up right.
Well, issue 1, key on or off my oil pressure stays pegged so something isnt hooked up right there i dont think. Issue 2, i am not getting fuel. Plugs are dry. I just basically need some ideas of things to check for because ive tried alot and nothing seems to be leading me in the right direction. So list every reason why i wouldn't be getting fuel if you could. |
no leaks?
sounds like you cut a line from the fuel filter to the engine...somewhere close to the tranny i suppose. jack the car up and follow the fuel lines.. |
Fuel line hooked up properly--supply to supply,return to return?
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yea i marked everything with paint markers. and all is hooked up well. There are no leaks anywhere at all. I jumpered the fuel pump and looked under car and no drips at all.
Im really feeling its an electrical problem because when removing the engine theres quite a few wires that get unplugged. I thought i had them all right but that whole oil pressure issue is concerning me as to how "right" i have everything. |
a couple of clips look the same make sure you dont have th clips mixed up
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clips for what and where?
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Make sure the injector clips are hooked up correctly. Is your tach bouncing just a tiny bit when you are cranking the car? If not you are getting no signal from the CAS which will give you no spark or fuel or you have a blown EGI fuse. The needle will barely bounce you have to look closely to see it. If it bounces lets move on to the next step.
Now go to a parts store and buy a node light that will plug into your injector clips on the wiring harness. These things cost less than $10.00. Unplug your primary injectors and hook the node light into one of the clips. Have someone stand up by the engine bay and see if the light node light blinks as you turn the car. If not, you arent getting a signal to the injectors which is probably related to you haveing something disconnected due to the engine pull and removal. Those are the easy steps to take, of course if you are sequential still it will be about 20 times more difficult to do the node light test. |
im sequential still, but ill check the tach thing in a few and le you know on that, im pretty sure it jumping around like it normally did. I do have spark btw. Just no fuel
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can i just use a volt meter to check that so i can do it tonight and now wait till tomrrow??
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the tach doesnt move. So we need to step back. gotta find CAS wiring and see if i have it hooked up right.
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CAS sensor connectors, white on top, grey on bottom.
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yea they didnt get touched in removal. still in the right spots. are there any other connectors on that same line for the CAS?
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i just tried following the wires, couldnt really get to far, gonna have to take my intake off again probably. unless this is all a problem because of that 1 remaining black connector by my ecu.
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i am getting spark btw, so could it still be the cas?
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Did you install freshly cleaned fuel injectors? they can get gummed up and get stuck closed.
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Im pretty sure if you are getting spark it cant be the CAS. You are 100% sure you are getting spark? If the tach isnt bouncing then the injectors arent getting a signal to fire.
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yea 100% sure on spark. Ill give it another go tomorrow
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If you're oil pressure is pegged, it might be that you have the oil pressure and coolant temp wires mixed up. They're almost next to eachother on the block
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i found a connector under the dash i hadnt connected. Once i connected it the oil pressure gauge went to normal. still no fuel, still no tach movement when trying to start.
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oil pressure and coolant temp wires are fine. I pulled my fuel lines. of the 3, the lower right connection on the motor had pressure and gas in it. Is that right?
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judging by the fsm the fuel line with pressure sholud be on the lower left not the lower right?
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Correct the line coming from the pump should go to the lower left, Lower right is the return.
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Yea, lets just label me the idiot for letting someone else hook that part up and never speak of this incident again. I feel really stupid right now. But on a good note it started. Took some work to get it to fire, had to use the gas pedal but now she starts just fine. Got some other minor issues to check out. Like a loud scratchy squeaky noise by the water pump. But i broke the tensioner bolt because i thought the water pump was slipping. So i gotta buy a new one today then tonight or tomorrow finish it up.
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No big deal, props on doing the work yourself. Everyone makes simple mistakes, glad you got it running.
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Originally Posted by BigJim
(Post 7736543)
yea 100% sure on spark. Ill give it another go tomorrow
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Thank ya. Got a few little kinks to work out here and there. Then its just wait for the snow to melt and have at her.
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