could a bad fuel pump do this, or is the engine toast?
 

if the car sits to cool down it starts fine. starts fine every morning that i do decide to drive it. when i drive it(more lately) turn it off and go to the store and come back out its a bitch to start. it just cranks, and cranks, and cranks. sorta like its flooded. i wait for a few try again and it starts, the rpms kinda bounce around for a few then they stabalize. again, when i first start the car it purrs like a champ, the way its supposed to.
mods are
PFC(base map)
intake
n1 single
mp
dp
stock intercooler
i know the boost reads high under the boost gauge, but the boost reads just fine with the PFC.
how can i check the compression myself. my closest shop is two hours away
kris

what do you mean the boost reads different on the gauge vs the commander? you could have a split in the map sensor hose which would give your pfc a different reading than the actual car is getting. I think you might have an issue with primary injectors sticking or leaking when they get hot. how many miles on the motor?

you may have a out of wack temp correction setting on the pfc fuel tables for start-up when warm. maybe the fuel thermosensor. or the fpr or selonoid

Surely I would check the subsystems one by one. Normally if an engine starts cold it's not likely a week fuel pump. The engine needs a richer mixture cold and it would also show up at power. I would remove a plug wire and make sure you have spark when the engine wont start that way you will know your in the right hemisphere. I also would , while cranking a while go back and smell your exhaust tip at the rear. If the engie is flooded or rich you will smell raw gas. If there is no fuel you will still smell something but it wont smell at all like raw hydrocarbons. I have done tune up and drive ability for 20 years and these are more generic things to do, as for a FD I an still in the dark as to the most likely systems to suspect. I would not say it sounds like a bad engine however.

compression test it first. My first motor acted like that when it had cracked apex seals on both front and rear rotors.

thanks for the info guys. i have a standard compression checker, will this be of any use to me. i know i should just take it to ricks rotary and have him do it right
kris

you can hold down the bleed tab on the gague and watch for 3 even bumps of compression. still not a great measure of it but should give you a feel if all 3 chambers are there.