Codes 3 and 27 wtf?
 

So either my search-food is weak or this is just a strange issue. I just had new tires put on Christine yesterday and I made the drive back home last night just fine, but however this morning on my way into class I made it about five miles and as I was starting to get on the highway the car freaked out and went into limp mode, can't get above 4500 rpm but it will slowly crawl its way up when not under boost... Kinda. So I keep it straight take it out of gear and turn the key off and back on and put it back into gear and ease out on the clutch like I'm pull starting it and the cel goes away so I try it again and hit a very hard ceiling at 4500 again. I then procedure to pull over and check for codes and it comes back with code 3 and code 27 tried this again 3X with the same results. I then threw some premix in the tank and puttered back home to grab a different car. I haven't had a chance yet to really tear into it, but I wanted to see if anyone else has seen something similar crop up so I have an idea on where to look. Before it is suggested I watched the guys at the tire shop pull it into the Bay and do the install so I don't think it was them. Car is mostly stock with a dp and vacuum hose job for simplified seq all emissions but the air pump are eliminated because I haven't gotten around to buying an idler pulley.

Thanks in advance all.

RX7 FD & Series 5 Error Codes

Code 3 is crank angle sensor, code 27 is MOP. Pull the negative battery terminal and hold down the brake pedal for 30 seconds to clear codes, then go drive around the block easy and see if they come back.

Usually MOP codes are damaged wiring or the like, same for the crank angle sensor. I doubt anything the tire shop would have done would contribute.

Take a good look around the main pulley and see if anything looks out of place.

Dale

Thanks Dale but that's the first thing I did, three times, and it's still going. I did do a quick check from above and everything seemed to be in good shape, and but I'm going to throw it up on jack stands to check underneath when I get back home.

an additional thing i should probably not is that the car doesn't have any issues until you rev above that 4 to 4500 mark thats when it starts having issues, as long as i stay below that its just fine.

and fixed it, turns out the induction pin on the timing wheel had been hit with a rock that got kicked up from my driveway and managed to bend out somehow and I wasn't able to see it when I just popped the hood to check everything out, once seen it was an easy fix and were back on the road. mods feel free to close the thread whenever you like

Nice! Good find, hopefully this will be a reference if someone runs into this in the future!

Dale

What about the OMP fault code...#27?

Pure guestimation on my part with nothing to back it up, but I would think that the OMP uses the timing wheel to know when to fire.

-Geoff

Do you have an undertray?

The OMP code is gone as well this is my general idea on the matter and I think Geoff has it right since the timing wheel was the only thing I made any kind of modification to.

Unfortunately I don't. When I bought the car it was essentially in pieces and even after two years I'm still finding stuff that was poorly/dangerously done or outright missing. And undertray is the next thing on my list to either buy or fab. I was thinking about making one out of fiberglass or FRP, but I'll do a search and ask any questions a little later.

Buy an undertray, it really aides with cooling... overheating these cars is a one time event, they don't take it well and it leads to a rebuild

-Geoff

Not sure, but I don't think so. AFAIK, it's signal comes directly from the ECU. And I've known others with the CAS code that didn't also get one for the OMP. In my experience that OMP code is initially a little transient. But it will likely be back.

Honestly blue thats what I thought as well, but I've never had an issue with the CAS before and I havent had any a week later and everything is running well once again. I can't back it up but I think the ECU uses engine speed to vary the flow from the OMP, not necessarily when it fires, just how much voltage is applied to the pump. This is my 3rd... I think... OMP for this car, so I am praying that the code wont be back again, but so far its stayed gone so I'll keep crossing my fingers and a quart of 2-cycle in the bins just in case.

just a heads up, three weeks later and everything is still going great in the daily commute