CNC billet throttle good or not?
 

hi guys i might have a nice Xmas present of my misus so I choose to buy a billet throttle 90mm of rotary work .com but I heard a lot of leaking issue with it so I'm just wondering is been sort it some how or still has the problem .if yes so I won't bother and buy something else like water injection or new fuel system...
Please comment if you really bought the throttle and has issue with it ...

Thanks.

Personally, if the TB had zero issues it would still not hold its weight against water injection as far as a worthy mod. The OEM throttle body is capable of 500whp and benefits from the dual butterfly design for drive-ability. I am making 454whp on the OEM TB, and plan to make more with a new turbo setup. As you search, you will see that most that use the Rotary Works 90mm are running drag setups, or simply want a shinny simplified replacement. Like you, I was on the fence of whether to buy it. After a bit of research, it wasn't the issues that steered me away from it; it was the fact that it isn't necessary.

On the other hand, water injection will greatly increase reliability, cool intake temps (50/50), decrease carbon, and allow increased boost if desired. There are many nice kits for the same cost as the throttle body. For me, it's an easy choice.

So you think is buying TB for now is better that water kit yea?because I can buy tue TB but I'm just worried bout the leak that's all I know it's good product to improve performance.do you think I can gain few extra bh from it?my car run 400 bh ATM on 0.9 bar

Sorry I know what you mean now water kit better to buy and get more benefit .ok witch water kit you think is good to buy.

expect to have to modify it to get the elbow to fit, expect to have to reseal the throttle shaft with better seals and expect to get no customer support on your product.

rotary works aren't the best R+D company out there. you would think that after all the time designing and manufacturing them that they would refine the end product to work a little bit better.

I'm goin to buy water kit is less hussle and safe as well is to much hard work with throttle leaks and stuff can't be bothered why the design it if it fail product I don't get it.

Aqumist water kit used but in good condition shall I buy it or not the guy give spare pump with it .
Or get new ones devil,or aem can't decide .

Your sentence structure is horrible mate! Lol, not trying to take the piss, or have a laugh, just saying...

Go with an aquamist kit, you don't need the top of the line, but they are good kits no matter what. Hop on fduk.org to see if you can pick up a kit used, or check on the aquamist site for the local dealer if ya want a new one.

I wont touch anything rotary works after I had my vmount kit on my fc from them.

My car makes 600+whp with stock fd tb and also have a stock 13b cosmo intake manifold.

I had a couple of those TB's,although I never had the boost UP on them.I never had a chance to.(tuning issues,etc).
Overall I have read(after I had them,and had sold them) that they do have issues so anything that I see that is bad about a particular product tends to steer me away from it.
I have seen some FD throttle bodies that have the Insides re-done though to a bigger bore.
You may want to take a look into that if that is interesting to you.
I would look at the Parts section,as every once in awhile you get a good TB popping up.
Hope that helps you.

New aquamist around 500 quid,I'm gonna take my chances and buy the used one ,also I have hks pro ecu so do I need to remap it when I install the kit?

You can get it re-mapped after installing the kit. But you can also run it on top of the map as a cheap insurance against knock. If you don't re-map it than you obviously won't be running for optimum power though.

Ok I get you know thanks mate.

damnn is that true in your sig? 600hp on pump? what octane

w re to the 90 mm throttle body...

hp is all about airflow and airflow is controlled by the narrowest cross sectional area.

think NASCAR restricter plates

when considering a larger throttle body let's look at the totality of the intake tract...

first the 2.75 inch tube we use between the IC and elbow

5.94 sq inches

then the OE throttle body

8.546 sq inches

finally the runner area

5.7 sq inches

so... why do we need to raise the throttle body area to 9.857 sq inches?

the runner area, not the throttle body, controls the flow.

further: take a good look at the intake side of the UIM. it matches up w the three OE butterflies.

a big fat 90 mm single hole does not.

actually, looking at the UIM... it may work really fine on the street but there has to be a better alternative. note how the secondary flow hits a wall before it divides to the front and rear.

i do agree w earlier posts that an AI system should be very close to the top of the list and a larger throttle body, if you are running the OE UIM, probably shouldn't be on the list.

howard

Yes, sunoco 100 oct, jambo big port engine , and siguel tuned haltech p1000 Borg W s372 greddy front mount