Clutch Woes!!
 

Hi I have recently rebuilt my FD3s 13B, and I have put the motor in and it's running fine.
The problem is I can't get the clutch to work, has anybody had this problem before?

This is what I did.

1. Put motor in
2. Bolted pressure plate back on to Flywheel
3. Bleed Clutch System
4. Started Car
5. Tried to put it in gear (Won't let me)
6. Bleed Clutch System again, clutch feels good, checked it through inspection hole, looks like it working.
7. Tried starting car in gear with clutch depressed, moves car forward slightly (clutch is sort of working)
8. Tried starting car in gear with out touching the clutch, car moves forward as expected.

I have tried everything I can think of to get this clutch to work and it won't, it was working perfect before I pulled the motor out & it is a mazda speed 3 puk clutch.

Does anyone have any ideas, or is it a common problem, could the clutch fork have moved or could it be out of place? or is it possible to get the cluch plate around the wrong way to cause this? (I doubt it, well I didn't think it was possible)

I have checked the slave and master cylinders and they are all fine.

I'll bet the clutch plate is backwards! This can cause the problem you are describing.

Been there, done that!

So you have had the clutch bolted up and it semi working, but not completely?
Does any body know of any web sites that show you the cluch setup, also is it easy enough to pull the gearbox out?
I have taken the motor out before but not the gearbox, is there any tricks I should know about?

All help or any help would be great

I agree with Rotarded, I think the disk is in backwards. Happened to me once! :)

Brian

When you look at the clutch disc, one side will be flatter then the other. The flatter side goes towards the engine.

Ok thanks guys, looks like I'll have to pull the gearbox out then.

Even though I'm almost 100% sure the Clutch Plate has the flatter side towards the motor, because I unbolted the pressure plate and had a look at the clutch plate and it has the flat part with no bits sticking out facing towards the flywheel and the little shaft type metal cylinder on the pressure plate side.

How long should it take to get the gearbox out and is there any tricks to it? whats the minimum you should remove to get it out

hmm did you change teh tranny fluid while u were at it? I just did a clitch job and had the same problem as you, but drove it around a little bit and it smoothed out and worked fine again.

Think stuff over a bit before you take the tranny out, its not a small job.

Thanks guys, I unbolted the pressure plate last night and I could see the clutch plate, and guess what...... It is around the wrong way, feel like such a dumb arse - it's not like me at all I usually tripple check everything I can't believe I got that wrong

Anyways I started pulling the gearbox out, should be out tonight and back in tonight or tomorrow, so thats good.

By the way has anybody had problems sealing an FD3S sump? & do you use anything but the RTV sealer ie: a gasket?

I put my sump on with the greys RTV sealer and it looked mint but it's leaking by the left hand engine mount, is this a common problem when sealing them like is? I also tried to tighten the engine mount bolts that go through the sump but the leak go worse..... Any Ideas?