Check this Build
 

1) Street ported w/ 3mm Apex Seals 2) Aereomotive fuel pressure regulator 3) 850 primary injectors & 1600 secondary injectors 4) Racing pulleys 5) 10 gauge spark plug cables 6 )3 row koyo radiator 7) Greddy front mount intercooler w/ greddy elbow 8) All brand new silicon vaccum & radiator hoses 9) New turbo filters 10) Manual boost controller 11) Boost is @ 13.5 pounds 12) Apexi ECU w/ display screen 13) Autometer boost, pyrometer, oil pressure, and water temperature gauges 14) 3" downpipe, midpipe, and exhaust 15) New stage 1 clutch 16) Brand new tires 17) New tokico illumina adjustable shocks.

Is this a good build?
Battery Also relocated to the back of the car

also
 

any suggestions on modifications?

i wouldn't go with a front mount, you'll get head soak (like we just talked about) into the radiator causing the car to run hotter, unless you track it. but for a street car you'll notice the higher temps; go V-mount.

get a electronic boost controller, more fun and "cooler", i'd go AEM truboost

autometer gauges are good if you want to retain the stock look but take a look at this: www.prosportgauges.com

also, think about installing 2 EGT gauges, one for each rotor, you'll get better power if both of the rotors are running closer to the same temps; alos longer engine life.

need an oil temp gauge too.

honestly, i'd get a resonated midpipe cuz a straight pipe is going to be stupid loud which will attract all sorta of attention, including the negative kind.

tokico shocks are good but go with some good coilovers, they'll last you longer and are better are preventing body roll

you also might want to add a bushing kit on there too, replace all stock bushings if the car is clunking and has high mileage

if you're going to be running that boost you're good with the stock twins; if you like the sequential system but want more power go BNR stage 3s

with the Apexi PFC it's all right with the commander, look at getting the datalogit which will open the world to tuning options.

Properly tuned and a good single turbo ( T04s ) you will be putting down 400hp plus and dipping into the low 11's, or 10's on slicks



Later

coilover,,, bushing kit
 

what exactly is a coilover and bushing kit
im fairly new to the RX7 series your going to have to forige me lol

go to some rx7 sites and poke around for the coilovers

the bushing kits replace all the stock suspension connections to the chassis by way of polyurethane flex type mounts, bushings, for lack of a better word.

they connect the a-arms to the chassis, the toe link, the trailing arms, the coilovers, the differential, the motor mounts, all that stuff has some sort of flex under stress which can be eliminated by installing stiffer bushings.

check the FAQ thread stickied in this forum as it has links to threads with alot of details on each of the subsystems you mentioned. that should give you a better background on what mods to do and possible build options

the archives are an excellent source of info as well.

judging by your "build list" you sound pretty new and you might be getting ahead of yourself. might also want to tell us the purpose of the "build" and what you are using the car for, budget etc.

autometer guages are GARBAGE.

850s and 1600?? a little overkill for stock twin aint it?

i totally agree. i just replaced my boost gauge. someone want it? haha

if u wanna give it away? sure. ive heard nothing but good about autometer...

sounds like a good solid plan. glad to see you have a plan.. im more in the wing it stage atm

chances are, if you dont know what coilovers are...you DONT need them. you'll be fine with a good set of shocks. your money wouldbe better spent of good tires.

i dont agree with most people about autometer gauges. they are the largest and most used gauges for almost all vehicles. they must be doing something right

that build is now for sale unfortunately I havent got to hold onto car long but the economy is killing me. one day ill have to get another when cash flow is a little better

a pyrometer? this isnt a diesel...

dude pyrometer measures the water temperature....
which comes in handy its like a backup monitor incase your chip fails and it is always 100% accurate as to how hot your car is running

I use a Cobalt Autometer Fuel Pressure gauge and a regular Autometer Boost Gauge in my C5 with no problems. Don't know what's with all the hate. :Wconfused

amen justin

pyrometer is exhaust temp
'? i thought

my bad your right it is
i got a water temp gauge to though ha :/

yes you still need a pyrometer to see if how rich/lean your running because an AFR will only give you a combined AFR for both rotors

that's why i suggested running 1 at each rotor so you can try to get them as close as possible, this is what i'm doing