Car wont stay running or Rev past 3k rpms? Help...
 

So this is whats going on: I took out the PowerFC that I've had in for over 2 years and put the stock ecu back in. (non cal) I have a full non seq conversion and streetported motor if that matters? Anyway, I would like to get my car running again, but for right now it will start, but wont stay running without me holding my foot down to keep it going. Also WONT rev past 3k rpms....? Any help getting this fixed would be amazing.

Thanks guys.

Have you pulled the codes yet?

Red, check your TPS,

Pull the code(s) to confirm but your idle may be shot from adjustments made when the PFC was installed. And it's also possible your may be in limp mode.

Make sure the ECU is properly grounded like it was from factory.

2nd make sure the car is not in limp mode (dont know why it would be though, never know).

3. Check TPS like others said.

It would be if he removed all the turbo system solenoids for his non-seq setup, but never used resistors since the PFC wouldn't require them.

Stock MAP sensor?

Check the idle air control valve, is right next to the TPS. They rarely go, but they get dirtied up or unplugged accidentally. When I was testing mine, the car would barely hold idle when I unplugged it, and even with my foot on the gas I couldn't get it past 3k before it died.

I had this issue before, car would stay idle but would not rev pass 2000 rpm. TPS was the culprit, previous owner took it out and remount it the opposite way.

Thanks for all of the responses guys. I will check the TPS tomorrow, but how would I know if the car is in "limp mode"?

The way your car is acting are symptoms of possibly being in limp mode.

To get out of it, you need to reset your ecu.

Unplug neg terminal on battery. Go in car and hold down brake pedal for 20 sec. I do it for 30 but I think 20 is the actual time.

I'm not positive about the limp mode issue. And he should try re-setting. But depending on what modifications have been done since installation of the PFC, re-setting the ECU may not be successful. And if things like the OMP were removed, it would immediately put the car back into limp mode on the stock ECU.

I took of the neg terminal held brake pedal down for 30 secs, started it up, same thing.... wont idle unless i give it slight throttle and wont rev past 3k... Im trying to figure out how to check the tps... any tips?!

Did you not pull the codes?
http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

I had a similar issue a few years back...turns out I had a bad engine ground. Check all the grounds...???

I had this problem too everything was stock but I had a pfc. The main ground to the motor was bad like smog guy said but mine also didn't display anything on the digital gauges in my instance. Definitely check to see what codes you are throwing like stated above.

Ok look over the obvious then. Make sure all your wires on snug on the plugs. Also check your map sensor. And like others said check your grounds.

Grounds are good, Map sensor is good, TPS is good, plugs wires are snug. I checked codes and its throwin all the SOLENOIDS that were remeved from the full non sequential conversion. And its also throwing the OIL METERING PUMP.

I was thinking maybe try getting resistors from Radio Shack and putting those in to make it seem like the solenoids are still there... Any one know what kind of resistors I need? Thanks!


Also, do I need to plug up an oil metering pump to trick the ecu into thinking its there...? Thanks everyone.

330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor

For the OMP, you need to plug in an OMP. Technically, it doesn't need to be actually attached to the engine if you are just trying to get the car moving.

Or just put your PFC back in and pre-mix. You can then replace or remove the OMP at your leisure (I recommend pre-mixing regardless) and it will take you out of limp mode.

how many 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors do I need, and the PowerFC is sold.

One for each solenoid you need to silence. You don't need to worry about solenoids which are part of the emissions controls.

Ok, I also think that there is a lot of gas in the chamber from a fuel rail leak I fixed prior to removal of the POWER FC, is there anyway to burn out the fuel faster then going through a set of plugs evertime I try to keep my car running??

Several things. For one, the OMP must be plugged in with the stock ecu, you are definitely in limp mode if that code comes up.

Second, it is likely I set your idle with the PFC without the ISC being hooked up. It is a white 2 wire connector about 3 inches away from the TPS. Without it, the stock ecu doesnt like to hold idle.

3rd. I doubt I installed the 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors in the 8 colorful sequential/emissions connectors since you had a PFC and they werent needed. These will also 100% put you in limp mode and cause part of the issue you are seeing.

Plug in a OMP to the connector near the oil filler neck and tuck it safely out of the way but continue to premix. This will trick the ECU into believing everything is good on the OMP side of things.

Install the resistors into the colorful connectors.

Hook up Idle Speed Control

Enjoy.

Remove your 4 spark plugs, remove the EGI fuse(30 amp fuse 3rd from the bottom attached to the positive battery terminal. Crank the car with the EGI fuse removed for 3-4 intervals of 10 seconds.

Clean plugs very well, if you dont have the means to do so replace them. Reinstall used/new plugs, reinstall EGI fuse and start the car.