Engine wont fire - Help Needed
 

Hi guys I have just finished upgrading the fuel system on my FD after a few months, and now it wont fire.

-Brand new battery and cranks well
-Shows constant 39psi fuel pressure on the gauge at the FPR when cranking
-It has spark
but it will not fire at all...

-It will fire and almost start with aerostart.
-I took off the UIM and hooked up a noid lamp to the primary injector plugs. When i crank it the lamp will flash 6-7 times then it stops flashing. This happens for both injectors...

Any ideas what might be causing this?


It's a JDM series 8 with stock twins, stock ecu, stock fuel pump, auto trans. The car drove fine before.
The mods I did since it last started are FFE secondary rail, Bosch ev14 2200 secondary injectors, cleaned and flow tested oem primaries, Turbosmart fpr2000, e85 rubber fuel lines, Speedflow fuel filter relocate, cleaned fuel tank, changed vac hoses to silicone, removed ACV, removed double throttle, TB coolant bypass, relocated IAT sensor to intake elbow, hks rs air intakes, new battery.

I appreciate any advice, thanks guys!

before we go any further, you did all those mods and retained the stock ecu? i dont see an ecu mod in that list.

Running tooooo rich?

or trying to run all that on a stock ecu.... is what im getting at

Yes stock ecu. I am running stock primaries and stock fuel pressure so theoretically the stock ecu should be able to start it as normal

OK tested for injector pulse at the ecu and it is doing the same thing there, pulsing 6 or 7 times then stops. Spark keeps sparking though.
Im wondering if the ecu would be intentionally cutting the pulses for some reason?

How did you test for spark? If it won't start on starting fluid...

It almost started with aerostart, it was at least firing
I pulled the plug and had it earthed and watched it spark when cranking

do you have a power fc or some other ecu? are 100% sure that your fuel lines are hooked up correctly, as in the feed and return are hooked up properly?

Since your on the factory ecu just pull the codes and see what it throws up. Might take the guess work out of it.

also, removing the acv may be causing issues. try plugging it back in. you dont have to fully install it, just plug it back in and try again. the stock ecu doesnt take to things being removed all to well...

Ok so my friend with ffe secondary rail, ID2000s, fuellab fpr and single turbo just plugged the stock ecu back into his car and it started straight away like normal...
He doesnt even have any solenoids :P

Apparetly the 6 pulses then stopping is normal as this is a flood pretection thing the stock ecu does.

I put in new plugs and tested spark with each removed and front and rear both spark.
The engine gets really close but still wont start with aerostart... If there is decent spark shouldnt aerostart definitely be get it running?

I pulled a sparkplug after cranking and could not see or smell any fuel on it, even without the ignition lead connected to it. I also cranked it with the plug out and could not smell any fuel.
Im not sure why there wouldnt be fuel when the injectors have fuel pressure, power and were cleaned and flow tested.
Fuel is flowing in the correct direction...

I just ran the diagnostic test, zero codes showing.
I pulled a few plugs off to induce codes and they appeared. Then plugged them back in and no faults showing...

Does it back fire or smoke while cranking?

Have the primary injectors sat very long since the cleaning? I had a similar issue with my secondaries - had them cleaned and it took me a couple of months to get the car back together and running and when I did I found the secondaries stuck closed, totally no fuel coming from them.

I'm not sure if this kind of thing can also affect the primaries or not, but it might be worth a look.

It sounds like your primary injectors are stuck closed...I've experienced this before with a friend's car after having his OEM injectors cleaned and flow tested. His injectors were sent back to the company who cleaned them and were confirm to have been stuck closed. Apparently, the cleaning solution that is used can cause the injectors to stick if they sit for a while.

Check out this video of this guy having the same issues with stuck injectors after having them cleaned (fast forward to 12:12 of the video):

Try running a USDM ECU! Youre welcome!

No nothing at all

Omg I think you guys may have solved it! I had the injectors cleaned at least 2 months ago! It sounds just like what's happening in the video.
Time to pull everything off again for the 3rd time...
I will let you know how I go!

Can the injectors be cleaned again to fix the problem or are they stuffed now?

Also, I had the new secondaries flow tested at the same time just out of curiosity seeing at they are not flow matched like the IDs are. Could the flow test fluid be the problem, or would it just be the cleaning fluid?

Seems highly unlikely they're both going to stick in 2 months to me, going by local experience.

I've had ones done by AFI at Mortdale that have survived sitting in their plastic bags for far longer than that and started no probs. Should be able to give them a jolt with 12v off alligator clips to see if they're clicking, before spending more.

If it was the injectors, your car would start on starter fluid, unless theyre stuck open and your engine is super flooded.

I got one for you:

ARE THE NEW INJECTORS HIGH OR LOW IMPEDANCE?

Both my secondaries were stuck closed. I agree it is a very unusual situation though, really I could not believe it was actually happening...with other cars I had done injector cleanings where it took awhile for me to reassemble the car and I never had a problem. I did a lot of troubleshooting before finally accepting that it could be stuck injectors causing the problem. Turned out it was, at least in my case.

Perhaps the cleaning solution is different at different places and some stick more than others?

The secondaries are high impedance Bosch ev14 2200s part no inj-139

Jza80 and Chon u guys were right! Both my primary injectors were stuck closed!!! They wouldn't click with a 9v battery, so I tapped the top of them with a screwdriver and hammer and then they started clicking, and then the car started right away.
Thanks heaps you guys are legends, this really saved me! :D

Good call guys!