A/C prob.
 

Hers the problem. My a/c blow cooler then the outside air (just barely), but not anywhere near cool enoguh to help. Even when its only ~85F outside. What woudl cause this?

I'm thinking I may be low on freon. I ahve the R12 so it needs to be converted. In this case. How can I tell which is the high and which is the low on the a/c system?

Thanks for any help.

Yes I searched, but there are so many post about a/c.

sounds like you are low on freon.
check this. when your AC is on does your compressor cycle (turn on for a bit off for a bit?) if not and it's always on, your low. It should compress the freon then shut off then when the pressure drops it should go back on.

How would I check this?

i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM But i found out that my high preassure line that goes from the evaporator to the condensator is gone, lt leaks all the freon out.

I was thinking about replacing the high preassure line but mazda wants $200 JUST FOR THE PART. and they are the only one i can get it from unless i buy it used from an fd owner or junkyard if i find any. $200 for part and around $150 to refill my freon plus labor. !! Pain in the butt!! But Is hOt As Hell and I might just do it!

Now, I know there is a conversion so it can be cheaper for me to get refills and probably get my a/c fixed.
anybody know how much it will cost, what hardwear will it requiere?? Will I still need the High preassure line and how much will i need to get all of it done.??? anybody?

I would get on the phone and try to find that HP line from a JY. If you can find one, when you install it put new Orings in any place you can.

as for how to test the compressor,

there is a high pressure and low pressure switch on your AC system
the compressor will not run if either is not working correctly. if you are running out of freon chances are you never get high pressure so the compressor will run all the time.

start teh car turn the AC on full blast.
let it run for a bit and take note if the compressor is cycling. you'll be able to hear it click on and off. It should run for like 45 seconds then click off for maybe 30 then on 45 off 30. If you have a blocked tube, it will only run for like 2 off for 4 min on 2 seconds off 2 min. etc. in this case you have freon but a tube is blocked (typically the orfice tube) on the other hand if the compressor runs and runs never turning off. you are probably low on freon.. If you are low you have a leak look for an oily residue near any of the joints for your AC lines.

If you have any r12 in the system the place that fills it can remove/recover the remainder of your r12 and reuse it making it less costly.

My mechanic checked everything already while i was getting a tranny swap. COmpressor everthing is fine, he even refilled it with Freon but everything came out because of the cracks in the high preassure line.

My question is, would it be cheaper for me do an a/c coversion.
Right now im looki at
$200 HP Line
$150 Freon R12
$100 Labor
Which is $450. That is alot of money, Should i just spend it doing the conversion. Will it be cheaper or how much will it cost?

the conversion kit cost about $35 from autozone.

which is the high and which is the low line?

Autozone.com??? Or what! Give me a number or web site.
Thanks
Saul V

I don't remember which connector is bigger and which is smaller, but the low pressure line is the easier of the 2 to get to. I think the low pressure is slightly higher and closer to the strut tower than the high pressure. If you get the conversion kit it will be obvious which connector is the high and which is low. Also be careful not to overfill. I did after replacing a line and the compressor quit working. I thought it was seized so I got a new one. Apparently I overfilled it also by just a few (about 20) psi and had the same problem. Got a pressure gauge and corrected the pressure now it works great. Anybody need a compressor? I got one cheap :)

Autozone is a store like Checker, Parts America, Pep Boys. They should all have the kit for about the same price.

High pressure lines are thinner.
Depending on the severity of the leak, there is a company that manufactures a chemical leak seal that caould save you a couple of hundred bucks. This stuff is discharged in to the freon system and reacts when contact is made with air. Here is their web site http://www.cryochem.com/

I just took out my A/C system the other day. I only broke 1 line taking it all out, the small one from the drier to the junction below the air intake and by the primary turbo. I'm definetly not going to put it back in. If anyone wants anything let me know.

ok, got the a/c working and now I ahve another problem. Everything was goin fine, until I was putting in the oil. the idle started fluctuating. Now when I have the a/c on the idle bounces from ~800 RPM to about 120-200RPM. Did I screw something up?

That sounds like what mine did when I had too much r134 in the system. Get an A/C pressure gauge and cehck it out.

if you take the car to any A/C place they'll charge you around $400 for the R-134a conversion.

I'll just stay with R-12 if you have it. It is way better and COLDER :)

if you buy one of those cheap kits you'll fuck up the a/c compressor if you don't change the oil correctly.

AC
 

Has anyone tried subsituting Ford parts? I'm only guessing that Mazda and Ford are using the same AC system and the Ford parts are probably cheaper. Only asking because I have the same problem with my AC.

AC
 

Has anyone tried subsituting Ford parts? I'm only guessing that Mazda and Ford are using the same AC system and the Ford parts are probably cheaper. Only asking because I have the same problem with my AC.

so if I ahve too much 134a how do I get some out?

what should the pressure be in the system? I acn check it while I'm at work tomorrow?

Dude Who the hell is converting your r12 to r34 for $400 i have a shop locally that is doing all labor and everything $113 out the door with full conversion cuz i had a small leak and r12 is spendy shit... just a note get other prices

Zoomspeed,

I just converted my system over to r134. Check out the EPA's site at http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/.../retrguid.html

if you want the scoop on the retrofit.

My car idles fine with the AC on low, but it now does the same thing as yours if I use a higher fan setting. I checked the pressure on the low side and it is running about 22 psi. My cheap gauge won't handle the high side pressure, so I can't check that.

My 1993 FD is from the pre-May 1992 manufacture, and I have an older ECU. A TSB recommended that people with fluctuating idle may switch to a newer version of the ECU that better handles idling with AC on. However, I'm still trying to troubleshoot the idle blahs.

BTW, my car cools fine, even with low side pressures under the 28 psi recommended for R-12 cars. The iluvmyrx7 site has an AC manual with recommended pressure for r-12 systems.

So the low side pressure should be 22 PSI?

I don't remember what the pressure was supposed to be, there was a chart I think with the gauge you can buy at your local parts store. If your pressure is too high you can just relieve pressure through tht low sire valve without feeling guilty, that is why the EPA made us switch to r-134 right? :)

I guessed a little about the pressure. The specification in the A/c manual says 28 psi for R-12 cars, but I was a little wary of putting in too much r-134 'cause it works the compressor a little harder. Like I said, the car cools fine with the 22 psi I have now, although I am going to try to bring it up to 28 this weekend and see if that has an effect on the idle. I'd suggest erring with a lower pressure rather than higher. YOu've got enough when you get cold air and the compressor cycles on and off. If the compressor has to stay on all the time on a lower ac setting, then add a little more.

I don't really trust the gauge I picked up from Target, so if you are concerned, it might be worth having a shop double check for you. I don't use the ac much; only when my wife feels brave enough to drive with me, so I didn't want to drop a lot of time/money on getting everything perfect.