buying single turbo harness and adding connectors for sequential
 

id like a new harness but the only thing is that its for a single turbo conversion. can i add the extra connectors and just ground them to the engine or would i need to ground them to the harness. i dont mind paying 650 for the harness but 400 extra just to add 7 more connectors is outrageous.

Wow, I guess because I already bought 2 harness from them they only charge me 50.00 to add boost control, idle control, spare tps with disconnect, and spliced two more injectors.

What else are you looking yo add to the harness?

i need to ad to the harness 3 vac solenoids, IAC, turbo precontrol valve, purge control, and turbo control valves i guess the harness does come with 2 extra wires i could potentially use for 2 of those solenoid valves

Can't buy a used but good condition stock harness?

no i dont want to have to replace it later on id like to mil spec harness

Are you using the OMP?

yes keeping the OMP

Just buy a new OEM one and be done with it.

Yah, kind of silly to be wanting a milspec harness and then wanting to wire in your own connectors.

Makes more sense to just convert to full rich man's non-sequential

thewird

its silly to buy a better harness than oem

Biggest waste of money I ever spent. I tried this route and it wasn't worth it. The $650 + $400 on the harness isn't that bad considering it is the life giving nervous system of your engine. There are things that shouldn't be skimped on and wiring is one of them. I spent many nights with wire strippers, solder, volt meters, and bloody finger tips just to lose an engine. Don't fool yourself

There's nothing better then OEM. The Ryewire harness is ment to be a wire tuck harness to simplify the wiring. It provides no other benefit. Buy new OEM and be done with it.

thewird

Cheaper, has all the harness modifications already performed (no improperly terminated wires), customisable for required injector plugs/ballast resistors, available within 2 weeks. Spec it properly when ordering and it's a great alternative for those running PFC.

The OP want's to run everything like factory.... there is zero benefit. OEM harness is available next day from any dealer.

It's great for a single turbo or non-sequential harness. Not for this application given the cost.

thewird

So your telling me that oem harness use mil spec wiring. So why is it called mil spec maybe they should call it oem wiring and maybe we should let the military know they have been using the wrong stuff on their equipment. I guess military standards are wrong.

There is nothing special about the harness other then it looks nice. The milspec doesn't mean anything over OEM. The OEM is better designed. If that is your only reasoning, your getting taken by marketing haha.

The OEM harness's are in the conditions they are today because they've been in cycling ovens for the past 22 years on the stock setups. Mazda intentionally designed the car to run stupid hot to be better on emissions and fuel economy. The fans didn't come on until 100 degrees, the hood had an insulator on it to keep the heat in, and plus you got the twin ovens constantly producing heat and holding it in all that cast iron. The mil-spec wire would have the same issue's if it was exposed to the same conditions but these harness's are NEVER used on 100% stock setup's. Just by having a PowerFC, your already making the car run cooler by making the fans come on sooner and going single, the engine bay temperatures are no where remotely close. And besides the OEM harness actually has the correct bends and sits properly around your bay and engine where the Rywire has to be zip-tied to look neat as it just straight wires with the right lengths.

Don't get me wrong, I recommend Rywire harness to all my customers that have single turbo or non-sequential setup's when they have old brittle harness's. It's a cleaner install and cheaper then OEM. But for a stock sequential setup, it doesn't make any sense given the price points.

thewird

To answer your original question "can i add the extra connectors and just ground them to the engine or would i need to ground them to the harness.", no you cannot. All the connectors you want to add require +12V power for one wire, with the other wire connecting to the ECU so it can send a switched ground or duty cycle control signal for the solenoid. This means you would need at least 7 wires going to the ECU.

I agree with the others who suggested either using the OEM harness or paying Rywire (or whomever is building your 'mil-spec' harness) to add the wires and connectors you want.

By the way, 'mil-spec' wire and heat shrink sleeving is usually rated for higher temperatures than the OEM wire harness, but don't fool yourself into thinking it's invincible. If the wire lengths on the aftermarket harness prevent it from fitting in place as well as the OEM harness, those 'mil-spec' wires can still get damaged from being pulled too tight or from being sandwiched and pinched between engine bay parts during installation. Additionally, it's possible that a new OEM harness built recently might include higher-quality wire and sleeving materials than the one originally installed in these cars 20 years ago.

I'm with thewird, if you are going to keep factory system then buy new or used OEM harness.

OEM Harness. You buy a new one now, it'll likely be the last one you ever buy. If you're concerned at all, do some additional heat shielding. Call Ray at Malloy, and you can have it right away.

The OEM stuff, in many cases, is really high quality and actually better than aftermarket we're finding. Not everything aftermarket is necessarily an upgrade (not directed at the Raywire product specifically).

Ryan had posted in her before asking you twins guys what you would all want to keep/ remove to build harness for you. Might wanna call them up and ask how that's going.

I've resurrected many FD's with good, used harnesses from part-outs and never had an issue.

But, I also inspect them before I use them. So theres that as well.