Brake ducts for OEM brakes
#1
Brake ducts for OEM brakes
Cost of materials:
2x7.5" 16ga square pieces of aluminum $10 (one I kept as a template for more ducts)
12" of 1/8" thick 2.5" diameter aluminum tube (I only used 2" per duct) $5
3m of multi-purpose flexible duct hose $7
Total $22
Future plans:
1) re-do the backing plates with 1/8th" aluminum sheets
2) replace the cheap hose with something high temperature, either dryer duct or actual brake duct hose
3) build a proper front air intake duct
It generally started with some raw materials. I had the asked a local fab shop to take my 7.5" square sheets and cut them to exactly 7.25" diameter circles, the fitment inside the rotor is beautiful
Then it's a whole bunch of trial and error to get the two bolt holes and ABS sensor hole lined up. I cut off the third bolt ear off the hub to give more room for the duct
test fitting, the gap between the backing plate and the rotor is pretty big, but I got this to be much smaller later by adding a few washers to the backing plate. The rotor is also not fully bolted on to the hub yet
The 2.5" OD pipe was brazed onto the backing plate using some benzomatic MAPP gas torch and some aluminum brazing rods, I think they're called dura-fix rods, I picked them up off ebay for cheap
used an old intercooler hose clamp to clamp the multi-purpose flexible hose to the 2.5" pipe
zip tying the hose out of the way so that it doesn't hit the tire (I hope, haven't taken it out yet)
driver side
final clearance is much much closer to the rotor
last step, to do something about this :S
Will be running Hawk DTC 60 pads in the front, DTC 30's in the rear with blank rotors. Will report after next weekend to see how the new pads and new ducting setup works!
Last track day I ran HPS fronts with OEM rears and no ducting. Killed the brakes after the first session
2x7.5" 16ga square pieces of aluminum $10 (one I kept as a template for more ducts)
12" of 1/8" thick 2.5" diameter aluminum tube (I only used 2" per duct) $5
3m of multi-purpose flexible duct hose $7
Total $22
Future plans:
1) re-do the backing plates with 1/8th" aluminum sheets
2) replace the cheap hose with something high temperature, either dryer duct or actual brake duct hose
3) build a proper front air intake duct
It generally started with some raw materials. I had the asked a local fab shop to take my 7.5" square sheets and cut them to exactly 7.25" diameter circles, the fitment inside the rotor is beautiful
Then it's a whole bunch of trial and error to get the two bolt holes and ABS sensor hole lined up. I cut off the third bolt ear off the hub to give more room for the duct
test fitting, the gap between the backing plate and the rotor is pretty big, but I got this to be much smaller later by adding a few washers to the backing plate. The rotor is also not fully bolted on to the hub yet
The 2.5" OD pipe was brazed onto the backing plate using some benzomatic MAPP gas torch and some aluminum brazing rods, I think they're called dura-fix rods, I picked them up off ebay for cheap
used an old intercooler hose clamp to clamp the multi-purpose flexible hose to the 2.5" pipe
zip tying the hose out of the way so that it doesn't hit the tire (I hope, haven't taken it out yet)
driver side
final clearance is much much closer to the rotor
last step, to do something about this :S
Will be running Hawk DTC 60 pads in the front, DTC 30's in the rear with blank rotors. Will report after next weekend to see how the new pads and new ducting setup works!
Last track day I ran HPS fronts with OEM rears and no ducting. Killed the brakes after the first session
#2
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good idea.
I would also suggest the following.
1. cut a hole in the front bumper and put a velocity stack on it for more
ram air cooling.
2. weld some aluminum fins in the back of that dusk cover disc for more
cooling.
You can cover up the front hole when it's rains.
I would also suggest the following.
1. cut a hole in the front bumper and put a velocity stack on it for more
ram air cooling.
2. weld some aluminum fins in the back of that dusk cover disc for more
cooling.
You can cover up the front hole when it's rains.
#5
one year update on this thread:
upgraded the hose to some proper silicone hose, this stuff's expensive so I just used a few feet of it where where it connects to the brake ducts, and the rest of it I used home depot flexible duct and a crapload of zip ties to hold everything in place
routing the hose to the front R1 lip, lots of use of aluminum ducting tape for sealing
driver side
sealed up front
Review:
Pads are hawk DTC-60 front and hawk DTC-15 rear. Rotors are plain old brembo blank rotors. With these brake ducts, running 245 r-compound tires all around, I had absolutely no issues with brake fade, either pad fade nor fluid fade.
With the success I've had with these pads and rotors, I don't see any reason personally to go BBK. Replacement pads and rotors are cheaper (er, not cheap), and they just work.
Brake feel is very grabby before the pads warm up, but once they're warm, the pad feel is amazing, smooth, progressive, but if you want, you can lock up fresh 245 Hoosier R6's without too excessive effort.
upgraded the hose to some proper silicone hose, this stuff's expensive so I just used a few feet of it where where it connects to the brake ducts, and the rest of it I used home depot flexible duct and a crapload of zip ties to hold everything in place
routing the hose to the front R1 lip, lots of use of aluminum ducting tape for sealing
driver side
sealed up front
Review:
Pads are hawk DTC-60 front and hawk DTC-15 rear. Rotors are plain old brembo blank rotors. With these brake ducts, running 245 r-compound tires all around, I had absolutely no issues with brake fade, either pad fade nor fluid fade.
With the success I've had with these pads and rotors, I don't see any reason personally to go BBK. Replacement pads and rotors are cheaper (er, not cheap), and they just work.
Brake feel is very grabby before the pads warm up, but once they're warm, the pad feel is amazing, smooth, progressive, but if you want, you can lock up fresh 245 Hoosier R6's without too excessive effort.
#6
Brake bedding is important, in order to bed my brakes, I stuffed rags in my brake duct openings in order to allow the rotors to get nice and hot. Screenshots from the video from my Go Pro
Before the pads/rotors are at operating temperature:
After the pads/rotors are at operating temperature:
Before the pads/rotors are at operating temperature:
After the pads/rotors are at operating temperature:
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#11
Operating temps for the 60's are 400-1600F and the 30's are 100-1200, not sure with my style of driving if I'd get the rears up to temp or not :S
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